In search of a Surefire single-AA 2-stage clicky...

[ztm]

I am using the e2e body. I don't like the 5mega body nor having to use the big C head.

But I hope that switch works out. It was exactly what I wanted. You could lock it out by loosening the head anyway.

That SolarForce tube from Lighthound is a 2AA tube as well. I want single AA.

 

[Paul_in_Maryland]

Leon the single stage AA is in the works I am told. Won't be out for a few months. But it's coming. "nailbender" is the member planning on making them once he gets the parts.

NailBender is now shipping XR-E and XP-G modules equipped with a single-stage, 1.2-4.2V driver that drives the LED at 1.0 amp. My XR-E Neutral White with optics shipped yesterday. Basically, NailBender took the 5-stage driver and removed (or omitted) the controller chip that normally applies pulse width modulation (PWM) to create levels 1 through 4.

I tried--too late--to cancel the order, because when I got home, my dream 1xAA had arrived: A Romisen RC-G2 II single-stage neutral/warm, R5, forward-clicky with a glass lens, that sucks 2.9 amps. $21 shipped from Shiningbeam. For me, the hunt is over.

 

[Glow_Worm]

Paul, do you have a link for that Romisen light? I don't see an R5 version on Shiningbeam's site.

 

[Paul_in_Maryland]

Paul, do you have a link for that Romisen light? I don't see an R5 version on Shiningbeam's site.

My mistake: It's a Q3 5C. And I bought it from Shiningbeam via eBay ("Romisen RC-G2 II WW Neutral White LED Flashlight").

 

[Sgt. LED]

I have one of those 2 stage Surefire E series tailcap mods.
It's nice but sure hard to find.

 

[leon2245]

I am thinking to go cheap and easy...just use thick paper or something and then get a a plug for length.

Paper. well the thickness fit isn't as critical- but for length, please link or point me to one of these plugs? i'm not having any luck searching.



​

 

[JohnnyLunar]

In my brief recent search for the "perfect" single-AA EDC light, I finally settled on the Nitecore D10 SP. Here were my requirements:

1. A bezel diameter less than 20mm
2. Capability for a pocket clip
3. Forward clicky (or piston drive)
4. High output of at least 120 lumens
5. Low output under 5 lumens
6. Price under $75

The Nitcore D10 SP does all these things. I'm still trying to get used to the feeling of the piston drive switch, but I like the ramping-up UI. The beam profile is just about perfect for my EDC needs. My Fenix LD15 has a much floodier beam, and is a little smaller, but it's hard to operate 1-handed, and at this point, you can't get a clip for it.

I'll continue to casually search for the "perfect" single-AA light, but in the meantime, the Nitecore D10 SP will hold me over. If Surefire does come out with a single-AA light that fulfills the top 5 requirements above (surely it couldn't meet #6, being a Surefire) I'd seriously consider it.

 

[red02]

You can also use o-rings to sheath the batteries. They just need to be sub 5mm diameter. Works pretty well for 18650 battery tubes.

 

[Mikeg23]

Paper. well the thickness fit isn't as critical- but for length, please link or point me to one of these plugs? i'm not having any luck searching.



​

Lighthound and others have 15mm charging spacers but they would have to be insulated with tape or heat shink and then they may bee too big around.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I have read most of this thread so may have missed this suggestion, for awhile the Sandwich Shoppe sold bodies that fit a 17500 Li-Ion, and I owned one for awhile. They are the same length as an AA battery, and have the SF E series head threads and tailcap threads. Sometimes they are available on CPFMP. Just a thought for the future for you, in that you would like an AA size SF E series compatable body.

Bill

 

[ztm]

Paper. well the thickness fit isn't as critical- but for length, please link or point me to one of these plugs? i'm not having any luck searching.



​

Leon honestly I don't have a source yet. I know people have used conductive spacers of various sorts in the past and figured it wouldn't be too hard to sort so I hadn't focused on that yet. I had imagined a copper plug with the sides wrapped in electrical tape or something like that at the worst.

Red I like the O-Ring idea for circumference fitting!

Bill thanks for the info about the bodies. It drives me nuts how there are rare and elusive examples that would help me out there but nothing readily available...it's like that with about every part of this project. My goal here is to make something I can reproduce so I can have more than one...and so others can make them as I know there is a demand for this light.

SgtLED....who did the z57 mod for you? Surely it can be duplicated I just need to find someone with the skills and have the do several for me.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

You are right about the demand for a good quality single AA light. I fooled around the other day with some various lego type parts I have to see if I could come up with a useful AA light. Using Rothrandir's (VME) Arc2E adapter and his Little Twisty body, and his VME head for the Malkoff, I was able to come up with an AA light using the Malkoff's M30. His Little Twisty body is in two parts so I unscrewed it a bit so it would fit the AA and screwed it into the Arc2E adapter which was screwed into the VME head, and voila, an AA light with about 40-50+ lumens (bounce with lux meter, comparing to other lights I own). No two stage switch, of course.

Bill

 

[ztm]

You are right about the demand for a good quality single AA light.

Bill

I think people just give up and settle as I have for so long. People WANT simple in most products but manufacturers like complicated and unique.

I have never heard someone say "darn I wish my light had 5 levels, 3 strobes, an SOS and a disco ball" but you hear the opposite often. I don't care if I can "program out" half of those...they will inevitably create a problem or complication. Every multimode light I have has hiccups at times and does weird stuff. I NEVER use anything but high and low unless it is by accident. Some people like all that "but I might need it stuff" but I am a realist.

123s might be fine for people who get them free from work or who have lots of "stuff" but for someone like me who travels light and hates proprietary excess I want AA. I can find them anywhere cheap and not have to carry different chargers and adapters around for one specific use.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Got to say that for a simple works every time light, those early Fenix's with two stage switches were about as good as it gets. Updated with better LED's they would be great. I am talking about those Fenix's without the electronic switches, the ones with a simple turn of the head and you were in the low or high mode. For awhile, I had an Icon, the first ones, and it was so good that my son borrowed it forever. Worked every time, and had two light level, and on one AA. Not a Surefire E series light but functional, and that is what works in our lives, hardy functional lights that can use a simple AA cell, Alkaline, or NiMh. I try to play around with SF lego stuff, or compatable SF stuff, and can come up with something that works, but still sort of jerry rigged. Got to thinking, as I ramble here. A cut down LX2 with light engine modified for one AA, and the existing resistor tailcap would be great.

Bill

Bill

 

[ztm]

Got to say that for a simple works every time light, those early Fenix's with two stage switches were about as good as it gets. Updated with better LED's they would be great. I am talking about those Fenix's without the electronic switches, the ones with a simple turn of the head and you were in the low or high mode. For awhile, I had an Icon, the first ones, and it was so good that my son borrowed it forever. Worked every time, and had two light level, and on one AA. Not a Surefire E series light but functional, and that is what works in our lives, hardy functional lights that can use a simple AA cell, Alkaline, or NiMh. I try to play around with SF lego stuff, or compatable SF stuff, and can come up with something that works, but still sort of jerry rigged. Got to thinking, as I ramble here. A cut down LX2 with light engine modified for one AA, and the existing resistor tailcap would be great.

Bill

Bill

An LX2 already has the type of switch I am looking for?

 

[jp2515]

An LX2 already has the type of switch I am looking for?

It has a resistor inside the tailcap to allow for high and low if you can live with a twisty that is.

 

[carrot]

My understanding is that the McE2S worked the same way as the LX2 tailcap, and the L2 before that.

 

[red02]

An LX2 already has the type of switch I am looking for?

The LX2 might not be thread compatible with the LX2, even if it was you'd need a lower value resistor. I'm assuming that the resistor is set for 2xcr123s, probably 60 or 80-something ohms which is too much for 1.2v... too lazy to do the calc.

Is it even possible to drive the LED with this kind of setup? Since the mod bypasses regulation it might also bypass the boost circuit which would make it impossible to start the LED at all. Although MWClint has completed a mod with an AA light and resistored tailcap so I don't know what to think.

I'm not really all that familiar with exactly how a resistor works, but doesn't it drop the voltage and current?

The best way to find out is to take 1xAA, put into a light with a boost circuit and put a resistor, say 10ohms or some low value in parallel with the battery. If the LED lights, your in business.

 

[gswitter]

It depends on the driver.

As I recall, the LX2 actually uses the resistor as a signal to the driver, and both the high and low are fully regulated. But I think it's the only driver that treats the low this way.

Some of dat2zip's drivers are compatible with the resistored low, but I don't think any of them can run on a single AA. There are some that run on 2xAA or 1x123 (and, of course, there's the Surefire L1), so a boost driver can work in the this combo.

And ARC mania's original Maxlite was a single AA light that used a McE2S switch.

 

[ztm]

I once again misunderstood. If the LX2 turns on and off by twist it is not what I want.

I want on and off by forward clicky (with momentary capability) and high and low modes being chosen by a twist (either of tailcap or head)

I still don't understand if some of the above options will work for that because for every person that says it will someone else comes along and says it works differently.

I don;t have the skills or knowledge to try this...but it seems a single stage light with a resistor that is activated when twisting would work to reduce the level right? I understand it changes tint and isn't perfect but for super low light I don't care.