LumensMaximus
Enlightened
I already purchased the AA pak from Don and now ready for the bezel, email sent for a Hi-CRI Sundrop 
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AA Flashlight (new single cell converter) addition to the series
- Thread starter McGizmo
- Start date
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Choester
Newly Enlightened
AA HI CRI Mule. My favorite little McGizmo so far. Thank you Don.
Hello Don or anyone in the know.
What is the approximate lumen output of the Nichia equipped light engine?
I saw 2 /10 /85 for the XML. I assume it is a little less for the Nichia. :shrug:
Love the aa option! :twothumbs ... and btw that output curve ROCKS!!
Just sayin'
Toons
What is the approximate lumen output of the Nichia equipped light engine?
I saw 2 /10 /85 for the XML. I assume it is a little less for the Nichia. :shrug:
Love the aa option! :twothumbs ... and btw that output curve ROCKS!!
Just sayin'
Toons
Toon,
I would expect less as well but not a significant amount. The spec sheet calls for a min of 90 lumens at 350 mA so we would reduce that by a lower drive current as well as loss getting out the front. I messed with my integrating sphere in attempts to read higher lumen values with the new dive light prototype and as a result can't take reasonable measurements until I put some more time into the equipment and get a sense of where it stands.
I would expect less as well but not a significant amount. The spec sheet calls for a min of 90 lumens at 350 mA so we would reduce that by a lower drive current as well as loss getting out the front. I messed with my integrating sphere in attempts to read higher lumen values with the new dive light prototype and as a result can't take reasonable measurements until I put some more time into the equipment and get a sense of where it stands.
wind-catcher
Newly Enlightened
Don, will it be possible to get bead blasted Haiku AA Hi CRI if we had 9 people interested ?
Because I want to order Haiku AA Hi CRI and don't want to miss it till we get the necessary quantity.
Because I want to order Haiku AA Hi CRI and don't want to miss it till we get the necessary quantity.
BenChiew
Flashlight Enthusiast
Drywolf
Flashlight Enthusiast
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From what I understand, the setup for doing the decorative BB takes significant time to accomplish. Time that would certainly take away from other projects... Personally, I don't care for the decorative BB, that I think you guys are pining for. Instead, I like the full BB finish. Don might be more open to doing a run of full BB (at a premium cost, of course) and then those like me can take one. Those wanting the decorative polishing can accomplish that on their own.
wind-catcher
Newly Enlightened
I'm Ok with full BB.
Hi guys,
Regarding the BB finish and any optional finish for that matter. I had composed a response as soon as I saw the list started by Drywolf but decided to let the request simmer for a while and not respond in haste. Unfortunately for me, the request is still as frustrating days later as it was initially.
I too think BB finishes are cool looking and the bead blast does change the "hand" of the light whether it really improves grip or not, I don't know. For that matter I think some of the plating that has been done to Ti looks really cool as well. I had a couple lights done in one of the runs from Modamag with a carbo-diamond plating (don't recall the actual name). Very cool! SOme of you old timers might remember that the very first light I made and the first pseudo production light I was party to sported some bead blasted surfaces. If I recall, I think I was first in our small community back then to add a bead blasted surface to a light.
But! I have tried to come up with a system of offering these lights that works for me, keeps me from burnout while keeping the satisfaction at a motivating level and one that I can maintain my response time with. It's my goal to be able to respond to any request within a 24 hour time frame and not get bogged down with a back log or any "lists". I can do this by having reasonable inventory on hand and the battery paks already assembled. When I get a request, typically all that is left for me to do is build the light engine per the request and assemble it in the head desired.
Having to set up my bead blasting equipment for a single request and often disassembling the pak so I can blast a set is time consuming and a PITA. I can only reasonably run the compressor in certain hours of the daytime so as not to make enemies of my neighbors. It's not cost effective and basically a monkey wrench in my program. And if I open the door to one particular composition of light why wouldn't I open the door to all of the different combinations? It's a reasonable request that would be frustrating to deny. ANd then the clips. diamond etch or not? stock or 1/4-20?
I've stone washed some of the lights and it's a very cool finish as well. Why limit this to BB?
I think the only way I can hang on to what sanity I have left is to just say no to alternative finishes. Sorry! The good news is that these lights can be dismantled by someone who understands their assembly and has the right tool for the clip screw removal.
Although I have a few BB lights on hand in my drawers and on the shelf, part of my defense or justification perhaps of not offering the optional finish is in the consideration that I haven't carried a BB light in a few years and I do have the option. It's a cosmetic consideration and one that isn't important to me. I have found that I prefer not giving a dang about the surface finish and if scratches or dings come up, so be it. My point here is not telling any of you to adopt my opinion or priorities but to convey that If I carried a cool looking BB light and chose to deny you the option I would certainly feel more of a heal in doing so. :duck:
Regarding the BB finish and any optional finish for that matter. I had composed a response as soon as I saw the list started by Drywolf but decided to let the request simmer for a while and not respond in haste. Unfortunately for me, the request is still as frustrating days later as it was initially.
I too think BB finishes are cool looking and the bead blast does change the "hand" of the light whether it really improves grip or not, I don't know. For that matter I think some of the plating that has been done to Ti looks really cool as well. I had a couple lights done in one of the runs from Modamag with a carbo-diamond plating (don't recall the actual name). Very cool! SOme of you old timers might remember that the very first light I made and the first pseudo production light I was party to sported some bead blasted surfaces. If I recall, I think I was first in our small community back then to add a bead blasted surface to a light.
But! I have tried to come up with a system of offering these lights that works for me, keeps me from burnout while keeping the satisfaction at a motivating level and one that I can maintain my response time with. It's my goal to be able to respond to any request within a 24 hour time frame and not get bogged down with a back log or any "lists". I can do this by having reasonable inventory on hand and the battery paks already assembled. When I get a request, typically all that is left for me to do is build the light engine per the request and assemble it in the head desired.
Having to set up my bead blasting equipment for a single request and often disassembling the pak so I can blast a set is time consuming and a PITA. I can only reasonably run the compressor in certain hours of the daytime so as not to make enemies of my neighbors. It's not cost effective and basically a monkey wrench in my program. And if I open the door to one particular composition of light why wouldn't I open the door to all of the different combinations? It's a reasonable request that would be frustrating to deny. ANd then the clips. diamond etch or not? stock or 1/4-20?
I've stone washed some of the lights and it's a very cool finish as well. Why limit this to BB?
I think the only way I can hang on to what sanity I have left is to just say no to alternative finishes. Sorry! The good news is that these lights can be dismantled by someone who understands their assembly and has the right tool for the clip screw removal.
Although I have a few BB lights on hand in my drawers and on the shelf, part of my defense or justification perhaps of not offering the optional finish is in the consideration that I haven't carried a BB light in a few years and I do have the option. It's a cosmetic consideration and one that isn't important to me. I have found that I prefer not giving a dang about the surface finish and if scratches or dings come up, so be it. My point here is not telling any of you to adopt my opinion or priorities but to convey that If I carried a cool looking BB light and chose to deny you the option I would certainly feel more of a heal in doing so. :duck:
wundergussy
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- May 22, 2013
- Messages
- 57
Ok, please help out a tech noob: I have a complete Mule XML 123 coming, and a HiCRI Haiku head-only coming. I plan on getting another pak once I have the funds. It would be awesome to be able to use regular alkaline AA's if needed (blackout) as that's what we have in bundles all over the house. I admit to not quite understanding what I would have to purchase/do with my current en route lights for this to happen. Is a converter and AA pak needed? Would I need to permanently mod one of the heads? Does this require soldering vs. a drop-in? Sorry for the complete ignorance, but I am new to the tech side of lights (am just a lover of fine things/compulsive collector/fidgeter).
BenChiew
Flashlight Enthusiast
Both your Mule and Haiku will each have what is known as a 3S Light engine with the respective emitters in them. The 3S is designed to accept one CR123 with starting voltage of 3.2 volts. At the same time, they will happily take a rechargeable which has a voltage of 4.2volts (RCR123).
Now if you want to run any of those 2 heads with AA, they will only light up if there are 2xAA in the pak. Each AA will have a max of between 1.5volts for a lithium primary AA or around 1.3volts as in a NiMh Eneloops. So if you only have either one of them, it will not light up any of your mule or haiku. (unless you have a AA light engine which Don also sells). To cut a long story short, in order for you to have flexibility of using AA batteries on either one of your pack, BUY a 2xAA pak from Don where you would need 2 pieces of AA. Then you are good as gold. Hope this helps.
Other than buying the above mentioned pak, there will not be anything else you need to do or buy. So no soldering or removing of anything. Just simple twist the head into your 2AA pak.
archimedes
Flashaholic
Yes, Benchiew has given you a very detailed explanation ... the key is that 2xAA is approximately the same voltage as 1xCR123A, about 3 volts.
Thus, the 3S/3V (three-speed, three-volt) light engine will safely and correctly work with either of the 2xAA or 1xCR123A Clicky Paks. The battery packs can just be swapped between your Haiku and Mule.
Note that McGizmo also has light engines available with drivers that have different input voltage ranges, to accommodate other power options (including 6V and 1.5V). This thread specifically discusses the 1.5V single AA option, but you would want the double AA Pak to be compatible with your other 3V parts.
All of these other light engines are modular, but it is (just a little bit) more involved to replace these than simply a "drop-in". Without going into too many details here, not all emitters match all reflectors and there can be potential issues regarding their size and contact path.
Hope that helps
Thus, the 3S/3V (three-speed, three-volt) light engine will safely and correctly work with either of the 2xAA or 1xCR123A Clicky Paks. The battery packs can just be swapped between your Haiku and Mule.
Note that McGizmo also has light engines available with drivers that have different input voltage ranges, to accommodate other power options (including 6V and 1.5V). This thread specifically discusses the 1.5V single AA option, but you would want the double AA Pak to be compatible with your other 3V parts.
All of these other light engines are modular, but it is (just a little bit) more involved to replace these than simply a "drop-in". Without going into too many details here, not all emitters match all reflectors and there can be potential issues regarding their size and contact path.
Hope that helps
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wundergussy,
I think Benchiew and archimedes have comprehensively covered your questions. A 2xAA pak would give you significant latitude in terms battery choice and compatibilities. Although you claim to be a tech noob, your questions point to some good thinking IMHO.
I think Benchiew and archimedes have comprehensively covered your questions. A 2xAA pak would give you significant latitude in terms battery choice and compatibilities. Although you claim to be a tech noob, your questions point to some good thinking IMHO.
BenChiew
Flashlight Enthusiast
Wundergussy. You really have 2 options to achieve your intended purpose of using readily available AA during a blackout.
Option 1 : to get the 2AA for full backward integration with your existing Mule and Haiku as discussed in the several earlier post.
Option 2 : to get a 1xAA pak with your choice of head and emitter using Don's new 1.5v light engine. This is the one described in this very thread. Using this, it will give you light with just 1X AA of any type. It is ALSO flexible enough to take a 1XCR123 3.2 volts which you already have in your en route Mule and Haiku.
AND if you have taken the Option 1 which is to get the 2XAA pak, this 1.5v Light engine will also take the 2XAA battery combination.
NOTE: The 1xAA pak here WILL NOT power your 3s Mule and Haiku.
I had given you a second option since you are a lover of fine things. It would be a natural progression after you after done Option 1.
All the best.
LumensMaximus
Enlightened
Received my new AA SunDrop in Hi-CRI, awesome light. It appears there is more interest in either Mules or Haikus and I have both, but anyone on the fence about which way to go, you may want to try the in between SunDrop. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
