10A Forward clickie??

[Gunner12]

The switch you are looking to replace a Mag switch may end up being the Mag switch

Mag D witch, forward clickie, can handle 9A after resistance mod. I had this light for over a yr before I sold it. It had a mag stock switch. Resistance mod on everything except the core ring. With fresh batteries, it starts out close to 9A.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...umen-Rebel-Mag-Deep-SMO-gt-50-000-lux-1-meter!

I did recall seeing a thread on modding the Mag switch to take high currents but I can't seem to find the thread. I do remember solder wick being used.

Will the Petrev/JimmyM MOSFET D Mag switch mod work? It's a fairly simple switch mod, although you do need a Kiu socket kit as well.

That circuit diagram was how I pictured it, except with different resistor values, the gate shouldn't require much current to activate. You might be able to make is smaller depending on the size of your parts. You might not need a PCB, but then you'll have to be careful of shorts. Also, if you are using a maglite, switch the spring to a lower resistance one.

 

[Justin Case]

If you use the IRF2804, you'll probably need to use a PCB around 30mm diam, which means a Kiu D Mag kit. If you use a small MOSFET like the IRLR7843, you can fit the works on a 20mm diam PCB, which allows you to use a Kiu C Mag kit. What Vbatt will you have and are looking for a D Mag or C Mag sized switch?

 

[Justin Case]

I did recall seeing a thread on modding the Mag switch to take high currents but I can't seem to find the thread. I do remember solder wick being used.

Probably this thread.

 

[vestureofblood]

Ok I guess I should have mentioned that this is going to be in the tail cap of a mag D. When I was thinking of using the mosfet I didnt realize that the gate connection had to be wired to both battery + and -. I dont want to have to use a coin cell for this like in VanIsleDSMs switch. I also still dont understand what the purpose of the resistors is like shown here
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/503/fmosfetschemmjimmymos7.jpg/

 

[D0do]

The upper resistor will both "limit" the charging current of the gate capacitor and - which is actually way more important - the combination of the two resistors represents what is called a "voltage divider". It's a simple way to limit the gate voltage - hence the note that that resistor is needed at voltages close or above 20V. Not having the upper resistor would mean that there is no voltage drop thus charging the gate to the full battery voltage. The lower resistor, however, also serves a second purpose: Once you open the switch you definitely want no more current to flow through the FET. This resistor allows the gate capacitor to quickly discharge. This results in faster switch-off times and less heat build-up due to having only a "halfway open" FET at some point during gate discharge.

 

[Gunner12]

There's also this thread in the Custom Builder section. Switch out the reed switch for what you want to use.

Those two resistors, as D0do said, are voltage dividers, so the MOSFET gate doesn't get hit with the full voltage of the battery and also to discharge the gate capacitor. If you battery voltage is withing ±15v, then you don't need the top resistor (the gate will be fine with the voltage of the battery). ±15v max ata the gate just mean don't go over + 15v or - 15v at the gate with ground as the 0v reference.

 

[Justin Case]

Ok I guess I should have mentioned that this is going to be in the tail cap of a mag D.

Why a tail switch? Will the D Mag be cut down to a manageable length/weight? Otherwise, it would seem very unwieldy to have a big, heavy D Mag cantilevered out like that, holding on to just the tail.

 

[vestureofblood]

Why a tail switch? Will the D Mag be cut down to a manageable length/weight? Otherwise, it would seem very unwieldy to have a big, heavy D Mag cantilevered out like that, holding on to just the tail.

Yep:naughty:

 

[ma_sha1]

Ok I guess I should have mentioned that this is going to be in the tail cap of a mag D.

You can use the Mag D switch core to build a Mag D tail switch.

 

[Justin Case]

How about a Judco 10A switch in the tail:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?334567-1D-Maglite-with-a-tailcap-switch-Build-Log
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?187717-10-Amp-Mag-Tail-switch
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?191627-Inside-Judco-10Amp-Switch-Photos

 

[vestureofblood]

You can use the Mag D switch core to build a Mag D tail switch.

Yes. I have done that, and with use of the lathe it came out looking quite professional, but it was a lot of work. Also only the D mag switch can be used so to do C mags would still have to purchase an extra D switch.

Since nothing substancial has turned up yet that may be where I end up anyway.

How about a Judco 10A switch in the tail:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?334567-1D-Maglite-with-a-tailcap-switch-Build-Log
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?187717-10-Amp-Mag-Tail-switch
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?191627-Inside-Judco-10Amp-Switch-Photos

Those were my original thought but I cant seem to find one that is rated above 2A that has a momentary function as well as on off.

 

[hoffmyster86]

wouldnt be too bad in the tail cap, put non conducting heat paist on the mosfet, FET or other would act as a heat sink wouldnt it? push come to a shove remove the old mag lite switch and relace with a thicker bit of wire, and drill two wire sized holes in the base and run a bigger battery pack with the FET attached out side..at a push like. at 10 amp that'll be some tidey cells in the torch.

(could even pulse the tranny? nice dimmer then too).

evilbay 290736054991 (i've not tried these, but the thought is there, but the switch will still be an issue).

 

[Techjunkie]

The Judco switches with momentary on (forward clickies) are in my opinion after using them beyond spec and seeing them disassembled, very underrated. My guess is that they can probably handle 10A without melting. With a little modding, I was able to build one into a Mag C tailcap. I'm guessing it's what Fivemega is referring to above. Here's the part: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/40-3355-01/526PB-ND/611175 and here's the thread-on rubber boot http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=532pb If you get the switch, save yourself some trouble and use the boot - the plunger has so much vertical travel, you'll make yourself nuts trying to use it with a standard CN switch boot.

On a similar note, I once accidentally dead shorted two Sony 26650VT cells in a Mag C. Those cells are rated for 50A output! The switch got so hot that the switch housing melted and ran into the contacts breaking the circuit. Afterward, I scraped the contacts clean and reassembled the switch with them looking as good as new and the switch is operationally no worse for the wear. Here's a pic:

All the contacts in the Judco switch, while not nearly the size of those in the Mag, are beefier than any other switch I've seen of its size and unlike the Mag's parts, they're copper. Also, from what I've seen of the Judco 10A reverse clicky, the contacts are about the same size and thickness.

 

[tobrien]

The Judco switches with momentary on (forward clickies) are in my opinion after using them beyond spec and seeing them disassembled, very underrated. My guess is that they can probably handle 10A without melting. With a little modding, I was able to build one into a Mag C tailcap. I'm guessing it's what Fivemega is referring to above. Here's the part: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/40-3355-01/526PB-ND/611175 and here's the thread-on rubber boot http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=532pb If you get the switch, save yourself some trouble and use the boot - the plunger has so much vertical travel, you'll make yourself nuts trying to use it with a standard CN switch boot.

On a similar note, I once accidentally dead shorted two Sony 26650VT cells in a Mag C. Those cells are rated for 50A output! The switch got so hot that the switch housing melted and ran into the contacts breaking the circuit. Afterward, I scraped the contacts clean and reassembled the switch with them looking as good as new and the switch is operationally no worse for the wear. Here's a pic:

All the contacts in the Judco switch, while not nearly the size of those in the Mag, are beefier than any other switch I've seen of its size and unlike the Mag's parts, they're copper. Also, from what I've seen of the Judco 10A reverse clicky, the contacts are about the same size and thickness.

nice man!