1D Flashlight Kit by Maratac

[lampeDépêche]

19ah you only get under 200ma or less , at 600-700ma load D cell has about 7-8 ah.

Correct. Alkaline cells are *very* sensitive to load, and deliver their full content only under light load. (Under heavy load, they waste a lot of their power to internal resistance.)

At higher currents (brighter outputs), the advantages of lithium primaries are much greater, since they deliver nearly the same total amp-hours independently of what the current-drain may be. (Because they have much lower internal resistance.)

I did not mention all of that, because I was thinking about using the light in low-mode, where the current-draw will be low enough to get the full power out of an alkaline cell.

Furthermore, on the high-mode, this light *does* change its output in response to changing input voltages. The lumen output with the 4AA configuration (6v) is significantly higher than with the 1D configuration. So I assume it would be somewhere between those outputs with a 1xLithium cell at 3.6v. Accordingly, some of the increase in overall energy-capacity would be directed to providing higher output when used on high mode. (As opposed to going to longer run-time when used on low mode.)

Though, come to think of it, Maratac's low of 50 lumens is really far too high for my taste. I like a *low* low, e.g 1 lumen or less.

Also, I am not fond of 6500k lights. I prefer color temps of 4500k or below these days.

Whew! What a relief! I have talked myself out of buying it after all!

 

[thermal guy]

It's a cool little light though 😁😁. Just saying

 

[ChrisGarrett]

So I have wanted a 1D light for awhile now and these finial became available again. Runs off of a1D or 4AA in a holder but think I remember reading somewhere that you can use just about anything up to 4.2 volts. 18650,16650 etc. anyone got one of these things and can add some insight? Thanks

Ehhh, I'm glad you're happy with it, but there are too many other, more capable lights out there to muck around with fatter 1D/1C lights. And for cheaper.

It's a novelty at best, IMO.

Chris

 

[thermal guy]

Oh I wouldn't call it a novelty. way over 100 hours off of a single D cell is a pretty decent light. D batteries are everywhere and easily scavenged. And it's a real wide beam which is nice when bouncing off the ceiling.

 

[alpg88]

Correct. Alkaline cells are *very* sensitive to load, and deliver their full content only under light load. (Under heavy load, they waste a lot of their power to internal resistance.)

yep pretty much, however 4 aa in parallel will handle load much better than 1D

 

[lampeDépêche]

yep pretty much, however 4 aa in parallel will handle load much better than 1D

True!

Except, the battery-holder that comes with this kit runs them 4s in series rather than 4p in parallel.

Check thermalguy's note at #37 that he got about 7 volts from 4 L91s. That tells you they are in series.

Of course, he was using lithiums, which is why he got 7 volts instead of 6volts. And the lithium primaries have less internal resistance.

But with 4 alkaline AAs in that holder, you will get higher voltage...and the same crappy alkaline resistance, choking down your current and using up your power.

 

[thermal guy]

It's still pretty efficient though.and the dual battery type is a pretty neat thing to have

 

[lampeDépêche]

So I went ahead and bought one.


It's a good light. The brightness and beam shape are good. (I'm glad I got the 5000k instead of a 6500k.) It is fairly compact — not as much of a chunk in the hand as I had thought it would be. All of the advertised features are good — the 1/4"x20 threads for tripod duty, the ability to get a field-expedient rear instantaneous clicky by adjusting the threads just so. All of that is good.


And of course its ability to run D-cells or to run AA's in a holder is the main plus.


Having said all of that, here are the ways that I would improve it.


1) It definitely needs a lower low. A light like this, and a cell like the D-cell, were made for long-run candle-lantern duty. Something on the order of 1 lumen or less. Personally, I am going to add in a resistor to produce that light level. But it would be better, and more efficient, if it were built into the circuit. You could get 1000 hours of useful light out of a Duracell D-cell running around 0.5 lumens — and that's a hell of a nice feature.


2) the cell compartment should have more shock-proofing to protect the circuit-board when the D-cell gets slammed around. Imitate the Gerber Infinity Ultra. That has springs on both ends of the AA cell. And in addition, at the positive end it has a silicon donut about 1/8" thick that provides terrific shock protection for the circuit board. So, revisions to the Maratac should include a thick silicon or foam bumper between the circuit-board and the D-cell. And the positive terminal should have a spring on it. This might require lengthening the body of the light by 1/8" or so — maybe even 1/4" for lots of padding — but it would make the light *far*, *far* more robust. Given how it is built now, the body is not going to get damaged by rough use. The cell will not get damaged. But the circuit-board *will* get damaged, by the mass of the D-cell slamming into it.


3) Also: as currently designed, this light is leaving a lot of value on the table by not being easily and instantly compatible with a single C-cell or a single AA-cell. D-cells are 60mm in length, and C-cells and AA-cells are 50mm in length. You only need to accommodate an extra 10mm of length between your two springs, and the rear spring already does about 5-7mm of that. If you add in a spring on the positive terminal, plus 1/4" of foam on the positive end, then it will be easy to drop in a C-cell or AA-cell and operate the light just as though it had a D-cell in it. The foam will act to center the positive end of the shorter cell and keep it from sliding off of the positive-end spring.


Can you run a C-cell or single AA-cell in the light now? Sure, but only with adaptors and extensions and space-fillers of different kinds. It's a hassle. And it should *not* be a hassle. It should be as easy as dropping a AAA into a AA Zebralight (or into the Gerber IU): you just drop in the shorter cell, twist down the threads, and it runs automatically, without any fiddling or fidgeting.


It would be trivially easy to change the Maratac 1D to give it this extra capability, and it would be totally in line with its mission. This light *wants* to be an omnivore! We already know that it can handle voltages from 1.5v up to 6.0v. So, if it could easily handle the AA-format, then it could also eat 14500s and 17500s as well. This is a lot of functionality that could be added, by some small changes to the interior of the battery compartment — adding a positive spring and a foam donut — and they would all support each other.


4) speaking of the circuit board and positive terminal: It looks as though the *only* heat-sinking that the emitter gets is from the contact between the positive terminal on the back of the circuit-board, and the positive button on the D-cell. Now, that's not terrible, because this light never draws that much wattage, so that heat-sinking is not a crucial feature. But the lack of a positive pathway for drawing heat away from the emitter is a small defect in the circuit board.

So: I like it. But I will like it even better when they revise it with springs on both ends of the cell and padding between the cell and the circuit-board. Then it will be much, much tougher and more damage resistant, and it will be closer to a true omnivore light. That, and a genuine low-low will make it a perfect bug-out light.

 

[thermal guy]

Yep I agree that a lower low would be awesome. And yes if it could use a c cell that would be nice. I'm guessing a a d to a adapter would work. Got to go check that out

 

[lampeDépêche]

....I'm guessing a a d to a adapter would work....

Oh, no doubt the adaptor will work. But the thing is: you should not *need* to use an adaptor. A well-designed battery compartment, with springs on both ends and shock-absorbing foam on the positive end, should make it possible to drop a bare cell in there and have it fire up and not move around too much.

And it would have the other function, of making the whole unit far more shock-resistant.

One of the first serious lights that I purchased, several decades ago, was a Surefire M3. Beautiful light. And it was thoroughly shock-resistant, with not only the battery-compartment protected by springs, but even the front reflector-and-bulb unit shielded by foam. It was meant to be used as a weapon-light, with all of the repeated pounding from recoil that this entails. So it was *really* nicely shock-isolated.

That's the kind of system I want for the Maratac.

 

[alpg88]

Oh, no doubt the adaptor will work. But the thing is: you should not *need* to use an adaptor. A well-designed battery compartment, with springs on both ends and shock-absorbing foam on the positive end, should make it possible to drop a bare cell in there and have it fire up and not move around too much.

And it would have the other function, of making the whole unit far more shock-resistant.

One of the first serious lights that I purchased, several decades ago, was a Surefire M3. Beautiful light. And it was thoroughly shock-resistant, with not only the battery-compartment protected by springs, but even the front reflector-and-bulb unit shielded by foam. It was meant to be used as a weapon-light, with all of the repeated pounding from recoil that this entails. So it was *really* nicely shock-isolated.

That's the kind of system I want for the Maratac.

what you pay is what you get. you can't have lexus quality for Honda price

 

[thermal guy]

Oh, no doubt the adaptor will work. But the thing is: you should not *need* to use an adaptor. A well-designed battery compartment, with springs on both ends and shock-absorbing foam on the positive end, should make it possible to drop a bare cell in there and have it fire up and not move around too much.

And it would have the other function, of making the whole unit far more shock-resistant.

One of the first serious lights that I purchased, several decades ago, was a Surefire M3. Beautiful light. And it was thoroughly shock-resistant, with not only the battery-compartment protected by springs, but even the front reflector-and-bulb unit shielded by foam. It was meant to be used as a weapon-light, with all of the repeated pounding from recoil that this entails. So it was *really* nicely shock-isolated.

That's the kind of system I want for the Maratac.

Well that would work for length but no way is a spring on each end going to make a AA Stand up straight and not tilt losing contact. You have to use some sort of adapter.one made out of pvc would be easy and would allow AAA or AA Cells to work.

 

[thermal guy]

Lumintop SD10 That's what I was looking for

 

[lampeDépêche]

what you pay is what you get. you can't have lexus quality for Honda price

Well, these are far from cheap. $45 is pretty steep for a simple, single-emitter light with no bells or whistles of any kind (no programmable modes or infinite adjusting ring or zooming lens or whatever).

And I'm not asking for it to be a fancy light: I am trying to push it towards being a D-cell Fenix E01, a simple light that focuses on robustness and flexibility of fuel-source.

 

[thermal guy]

I guess what they could do is make the tube a little longer to fit 16650/18650 then put a spring on positive end and then make the ID adjustable to fit anything from a AAA to a D cell.it could be done but not for 45 bucks. Be more like 80. Then you have a very Niche light that is pretty expensive. Right now it's a nice light with long runtimes pretty dam bright and can run off of AA or D cells. All for 45 bucks which is pretty cheap nowadays

 

[Lynx_Arc]

Well, these are far from cheap. $45 is pretty steep for a simple, single-emitter light with no bells or whistles of any kind (no programmable modes or infinite adjusting ring or zooming lens or whatever).

And I'm not asking for it to be a fancy light: I am trying to push it towards being a D-cell Fenix E01, a simple light that focuses on robustness and flexibility of fuel-source.

I agree these aren't cheap..... you can get a D cell LED light for about $3 at walmart and buy parallel 3AA to D adapters and buy another light for higher output with a diffuser (18650) and still end up cheaper.
Spending a lot of money just to run off a single D cell when 18650 is far superior is a waste IMO.

 

[thermal guy]

Pretty sure the build quality of this thing is a little better then a 3 dollar led light🤔
It's a solid little light. But yes not for all.

 

[alpg88]

Well, these are far from cheap. $45 is pretty steep for a simple, single-emitter light with no bells or whistles of any kind (no programmable modes or infinite adjusting ring or zooming lens or whatever).

And I'm not asking for it to be a fancy light: I am trying to push it towards being a D-cell Fenix E01, a simple light that focuses on robustness and flexibility of fuel-source.

still does not compare to $300-400 surfire.

 

[thermal guy]

Yes figuratively speaking 45 bucks is cheap for a decent light.

 

[lumen aeternum]

Correct. Alkaline cells are *very* sensitive to load, and deliver their full content only under light load. (Under heavy load, they waste a lot of their power to internal resistance.)

speaking of which -- anyone have a chart showing this?