2-Stage Switch Source?

[RCatR]

I've looked and looked through the forums using both the search function and by hand and I can't seem to find the thread that details a small square on-on-off clickie which is commonly used to make 2 stage mods

Anyone know the thread/source offhand?

 

[vacuum3d]

If you're referring to the ones kenster and led_zepplin used in their mods, I bought 20 from Digikey. How bout $1.25 each plus a little for shipping. PM me if you need some.

ernest

 

[waynejitsu]

I would also be interested.
Please PM me too!!

 

[Essexman]

Could you post a pic of the switch with details/part no. I would be like to see if they are available here in the UK.

 

[PhotonAddict]

Do you mean this thread?
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=122273

 

[vacuum3d]

Essexman, do a search on threads started by 'kenster' and 'led_zeppelin' and look for the 2-stage modded switch. I followed the threads and found the part number for Digikey.

 

[kenster]

If you mean like the switch on the left, that is a Judco switch from thier pushbutton flatpack series. It is a SPDT switch and comes with the leads straight out like in the picture or bent down 90 degrees. I believe this is all the info you need using the search at Digikey.

Switches - Pushbutton - Judco - SPDT

Ken

 

[RCatR]

Now we're clicking!

 

[Essexman]

Thanks guys, I'll have a look later.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

The switch Kenster and I used is made by Judco and sold by Digikey. The Digikey part number is 542PB-ND, a SPDT 12VDC 300mA.

It drops right into some import lights like the Lumapower D-mini. Other uses limited only by your imagination.

 

[go_to_the_light]

will this fit in a SF L4?

 

[LED Zeppelin]

will this fit in a SF L4?

Yes, with much effort.

Kenster is credited with adapting it to a McClicky switch, see this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=132390

A stock SF L4 switch would be similar, but different enough that you'd need to improvise a bit. The modified McClicky will drop into the L4 tailcap.

Another option for the L4 is to shunt the switch with a resistor. Solder a resistor from the switch's ground plate to the switched lead. Basically what you'll be doing is allowing the resistored path when the switch is clicked off. Then you will operate the on/off by twisting the tail, and the level selection will be by clicking the switch. Much easier than the Judco implant, but a hybrid twisty/clicky.

TrueBlue has a post about that mod somewhere, if you need I can probably dredge it up.

 

[go_to_the_light]

I did the trueblue mod on an L4 switch. It works as promised, but I barely get the tailcap on before the light turns on. Like I barely even start to screw it on. Not very usable. Should I shorten the spring?

 

[LED Zeppelin]

I did the trueblue mod on an L4 switch. It works as promised, but I barely get the tailcap on before the light turns on. Like I barely even start to screw it on. Not very usable. Should I shorten the spring?

Hmm, sounds like something is making contact before the ground plate of the switch. Maybe the resistor is touching the inside of the tube and allowing a path that doesn't go through the switch. Make sure there is adequate clearance so the resistor leads don't contact the tube at all. It's tight, but with an adequately small resistor (I've used 1/6 watt), it will clear.

Another possibility is that the anodizing has worn off the threads of the tailcap and are now conductive. If so, and if also the chrome ground plate of the switch is touching the tailcap housing, that is another path that is bypassing the switch. Make sure the ground plate of the switch is isolated from the tailcap, file the OD of the ground plate if necessary.

Shortening the spring will help, but it's not the problem. If for whatever reason you can't fix the cause of the problem, replacing the spring with an appropriate height solid slug will be a better connection and a better twisty action. But again, I'd highly recommend addressing the short instead of the spring.

 

[kenster]

My knowledge of Surefire is limited so I added some pictures. Please correct my mistakes if you know better.

I believe the tailcap on the left is what comes with an L4 and is a Z57. It has a clickie switch. The one piece tailcap on the right comes with an E1E and is a Z48????. The McClickie does not fit in the Z57 but it does fit in the other tailcap.

The one piece tailcap does not come with a switch. It is just a twist on/off or press for momentary. The McGizmo clickie switch screws right in.

This light has my McGizmo/Judco two stage switch mod in the one piece tailcap. That tailcap and switch are being used by a CPF member that I made it for on a Surefire L4.

EDIT: Anyway, that was just to show there are more options and still keep your light looking all Surefire. You could also put the McGizmo McE2 in that tailcap but it is a twist two stage switch not a clickie.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Nice Kenster!

I installed a modified McClicky in an E2D tailcap. I dropped it in from the top side, not threaded in from the bottom. It works fine.

Nice to know it threads right into the Z48(?X2).

 

[go_to_the_light]

LED_Zep - thanks for the advice on my L4 swtich mod. Its was a contact problem. Got it working fine now.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

gttl, great!

Glad to be of help, though I'm not the most qualified.