3D maglite build ?

October_V

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
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16
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Alaska
I am really new to the home build flashlight world, still reading these post every night.
What is considered to be the brightest build with a 30+ minute run time on this platform?
I am looking to do a Mag85 project, but am curious to how far I can go with a 3D.
Thanks!
 
I'm in the same boat as you with a 3D Maglite, and wanting the brightest mode within a "reasonable" budget and fairly simple to build as its my first one. From what I've read here (which is a lot), the Mag85 is the brightest, fairly simple mod without having to bore out the battery tube to fit larger battery packs. I'm in the middle of building this one (Li-ion edition) as well as a 2D ROP (NiMH), just waiting on the final parts to come in.

It's absolutely endless what you can do, even with a 2D, just look at the Mag623! http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=186764

But, it requires a bored tube and other mods which puts the budget and complexity much further up there.

You can check out LuxLuthors Most Powerful Mods list below and see how far you want to go, but if you are like me just getting started with these mods, I think the Mag85 is a great place to start. After seeing the Mag623 blow the doors off a 15 Million Candlepower spotlight, this will definitely be my next mod - in a 2D no less!

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177171
 
IMHO the Mag85 is the biggest WOW you can do to a Mag3D that just involves swapping out parts. A little pricey but you can vary that a lot depending on what quality of parts you buy.
 
3 x emoli 2670mah 4.2v, the lithium cell from Milwaukee 28v battery paks yeilds 12.6v on a fresh charge. I've run 100w Osram 64625 and 62138 bulbs. 2600mah/7000x60= bit over 25min run time. And these batteries sag very little with some of the flattest discharge curves. Which gives you a constant output for most of the run time.

The price to build is cheaper than a 1185 since you won't need battery holders or made up battery paks if you use emoli cells.
jim
 
Thanks for the info. The pics of the Mag623 are incredible! Even hard to believe. I must have one for sure.
I guess I will build with my old 3D then pony up some cash and do the 623.

Great, the more I learn the more I get distracted.
 
AW Sells some Sweet 6V Globes that are pretty good i rekon it keeps up if not brighter than a wa1185 + Aw bulbs are cheap :D

You still need all the Modded running gear, Bi Pin Holder, Battery Packs/Holders, Metal Reflectors and Glass window

Also Resistance Fix's Will be really neat too
 
Let me carry this a little more specific, I have the 9xAA battery holder from FM for the 3D flashlight, Eneloops, and the borofloat lense at the house right now. I need a bi-pin holder, aluminum reflector and some WA1185 bulbs to complete the project correct?

Jim, I have to ask about the emoli's. How many of them would I need for a Mag85 and can I charge them with my Triton2? Are the emoli's small enough to fit in a C sized flashlight too?

Thanks,

Bob E.
 
Hi Bob E.

3 Emoli 26700mah 4.2v freash charge, the only battery that come from Milwaukee 28v battery paks. I specifiy this cell which is only made in Canada as it has a 3 year track record since it has been on the market. It is a known performer.

3 Emoli=12.6v which is too much for an 1185. adding the NTC we commonly use around here will drop the voltage too much.

12.6v is great for some other bulbs. 50w Osram 64610, IRC bulbs, AW's Chinese mystery bulb, and up to some 100w bulbs. Osram 64625 runs great, and bright white color temp. 62138 100w, has a white hot color temp on 3 emolis.

3 A123 cells 2300mah 3.6v fresh charge= 10.8v will power 1185 with around 3.5A draw will have a run time 2300/3500x60= around 39min.

Yes, triton2 as any charger with a li-Io or li-Op program with charge these emolis.

Older C m@gs without C in the serial number I have seen some some not fit. the emoli will need to loose their cardboard and wrap in kapton tape.
If don't fit can some rough sand paper, wood dowl and hand drill will make short work.
jim

Let me carry this a little more specific, I have the 9xAA battery holder from FM for the 3D flashlight, Eneloops, and the borofloat lense at the house right now. I need a bi-pin holder, aluminum reflector and some WA1185 bulbs to complete the project correct?

Jim, I have to ask about the emoli's. How many of them would I need for a Mag85 and can I charge them with my Triton2? Are the emoli's small enough to fit in a C sized flashlight too?

Thanks,

Bob E.
 
Thanks Jim!! This is great news about those batteries out of the Milwalkee packs. And even better that I can use them in my new C bodies or D bodies.

Since I haven't built an incan mod yet, I also have enough stuff already for a basic ROP here at the house too, except for a reflector (I wouldn't feel good about leaving in the plastic one). So I may try that first as my right of entry into the incan world....I cannot wait!!

If I use Emoli's in a D cell should I get some PVC or something to contain them? What do you recommend?

Bob E.
 
Bob,

Welcome to incans! 2 of above mentioned Emolis will fit right in a 2D host, only requiring a tailcap mod. That is remove the anodizing from bottom only. Then I fill up the gap with copper braid or if short on braid cut a piece of heater hose to length then one length of copper through both ends to complete the curcit.

If the fit at the tailcap is tight then the cells won't move, I have not had the need to use other spacers around the cells.

enjoy, jim

Thanks Jim!! This is great news about those batteries out of the Milwalkee packs. And even better that I can use them in my new C bodies or D bodies.

Since I haven't built an incan mod yet, I also have enough stuff already for a basic ROP here at the house too, except for a reflector (I wouldn't feel good about leaving in the plastic one). So I may try that first as my right of entry into the incan world....I cannot wait!!

If I use Emoli's in a D cell should I get some PVC or something to contain them? What do you recommend?

Bob E.
 
Jim, do you normally charge your Emolis with magnets on the ends? It looks like my Voltcraft craddle will go D size with absolutely no more length than that.

Also, do you still have separate batteries available. I didn't expect a full Milwaukee 28 volt pack to cost THAT much.....WOW!! Before I start committing to these batteries, I think it would be easier to get my feet wet by getting a couple from you first and playing with them.

Bob E.
 
Bob,

Youve got most of the good things needed for a nice Mag85. Get some WA1185 bulbs. a Kiu high temp socket kit or a FiveMega Bi-pin to PR socket adapter, Some good Ni-MH AAs like IB or Elite's and you'll be in business. Since youve got most of the parts i dont see a reason not to finish the build. Then you can buy yourself another 3D host and build a nice Mag623. My Polaris TK is a MAg623 from before Mag623's were common :) And yes you can start fires with it :) Although runtime isnt too great. The Mag85 will be better in that regard.

Shane
 
Bob,

I keep both pos. and neg tabs on the A123 cells.

On emolis I use magnets on the neg. and charge as single cells. Magnets are repeled on the pos anode of the cell. The pos has a bridge kind of opening can clamp onto.

I have keep as many as 5s Emolis together with the factory welds and charged without problem. Where have seen problems is DIY paks I have gotten from RC guys and one solder joint or another is poor with dead or hard to revive cell.

Not familiar with your charger but maybe can use alligators clips.
Right now I have 7 2670mah emoli cells left. If you want any send me a pm.
jim

Jim, do you normally charge your Emolis with magnets on the ends? It looks like my Voltcraft craddle will go D size with absolutely no more length than that.

Also, do you still have separate batteries available. I didn't expect a full Milwaukee 28 volt pack to cost THAT much.....WOW!! Before I start committing to these batteries, I think it would be easier to get my feet wet by getting a couple from you first and playing with them.

Bob E.
 
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