500 Lumen drop-in for SF 6P

cpfmember

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May 23, 2003
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Hi everybody

Just wanted to share my latest mod I finished:
It's a SF 6P drop in with 4 Rebel 100 LEDs and 4 rebel reflectors (from Wayne). I call it RebP500.
The rebels are direct driven from a 18650 Li-Ion battery and take about 500mah each.
All in all you get roughly 500 LED-Lumens for 1 hour. Not bad for your old SF 6P. Up to now I did no runtime test, so I can't say anything about the heat issue. But I guess for my short time operation up to 10 minutes it should work. And as I use it with a two stage switch it is very versatile.
The beam pattern is (as the reflectors themself) comparable to the SF L4, just way brighter = a true wall of light. I would say to my eyes the hotspot is as bright as the one from my preferred SF L5, just about 4 times larger. The picture of the beamshot does mislead a bit.
Just wanted to share this idea with other modders and encourage them, even if its small: it works. My next idea is a 7 Rebel drop-in for a SF U2 clone.

Dominic


Beamshot2.JPG

RebP500 on the left SF L5 on the right

6p.JPG


DROP-IN.JPG

Base is a drop-in from DX
 
Sorry to disappoint you but the RebP500 won't be for sale. At least not from me. Besides that I don't have the time to produce them, the unit would be quite expensive as the parts themselves are about 100$.

But perhaps another modder is interested and able to produce and sell them.

Yesterday I compared the RebP500 with my 10watt HID (flood one) and its quite comparable. The LEDs are a bit more focused.
 
Yes its more flood than throw.
You can't expect much shrow from such small reflectors, even if you take 4 of them.

But I like the beam as you have a great mix between sidespill and a bright, large hotspot.

Great for indoor and up to about 15m.
 
Nice mod! How did you mount the LEDs? Were they epoxied to the heatsink or did you use one of the PCBs from the Shoppe?
 
I already bought the Rebel100 mounted on a pcb (german seller) so I had just to fit these pcbs to the space I have.
 
WHat did you use as your base? Ie the bottom aluminum bit of the pill.
 
Oooohhhh I want one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wish I had the skill to do that. Who wants to build me one?
 
The bottom (where the Rebel-PCBs are mounted) is an ordinary 2mm thick and 20mm in diameter steel part form a DIY-shop.

Btw: has anybody a good idea for a driver that I could install?

I had to find out that the current drawn drops within the first 30 minutes of use to 1500mah. So a small step-up converter to 2000mah or 2500mah would be nice. I have the same space available as in the normal DX-drop-ins.
 
For the driver, try a 1.2 or 1.4A one, and with LEDs in parallel you should get 400 to 500mA each. I also would have said the 4-18V kai one, but i dont think you would have enough Vin to run three LEDs.

As for my question regarding the "bottom bit", i meant the bottom of the pill, ie the tapered sectin which connects to the battery + point. Is it from a DX diy drop in set?
 
Yes the bottem part is a down-cutted DX DIY-drop in.

I just found out that a Shark circuit should do the job (I just have to solder the Rebels from prallel to serial). But then I should get up to 700mah per LED.
And this would then be close to 700 Lumens. Not bad.
 
Yes the bottem part is a down-cutted DX DIY-drop in.

I just found out that a Shark circuit should do the job (I just have to solder the Rebels from prallel to serial). But then I should get up to 700mah per LED.
And this would then be close to 700 Lumens. Not bad.

The shark can do the job but not off a 18650, 2xCR123s could work.
Wayne has a formula for minimum Vin on this thread
You'll be boosting up to 12-14v for 4 series Rebels and the amp pull on a 18650 would be about 3.5-4A.
Try it with a protected 18650 and you may get a flash of light out of it.
It could work at a lower level like 500ma as the shark is dimmable
 
Doesn't state Wayne exactly in this post that 700mah should work (at least if the battery is relativly freshly charged) (post 25)?

the question was: can you verify I can drive 4 cree's at 700ma with 3.6v input

quote Wayne:

"
Your input/output ratio is 3.6V:~14V or ~1:3.9

Simplified calculation is for the current knowing the Vin/Vout ratio and apply the same for the current. 14V@1A equal 3.9 X 1A to get the input Current = 3.9A. That's too much for the Shark. 14V @ 0.7 = 0.7 * 3.9 = 2.73A. That's possibly OK since we did not factor in the efficiency of the converter so input current will be higher than 2.73A by another 15% or so which will go over 3A again, but, not by much. So, 700mA is around the limit for the Shark in this configuration.
"
 
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