About the brightness drop of the tape switch

[Struecker]

"As of August 2020, Surefire customer service says that the SR07 ST07 switch may not allow the M600DF to run at full brightness when using an 18650 cell."


When I saw this statement, I decided to do a small test.
Using my light meter, check how much the brightness will drop when using the tape switch compared to the click switch.


A light meter cannot detect the ture light intensity of the flashlight, but it can get a relative change in value.


The brightness reduction of ST07 Tape Switch compared to Z68 Click Switch is as follows: (The batteries are brand new or fully charged)
- Surefire M600DF (1x18650): 20% lower
- Surefire M600U (2xCR123A): 22% lower
- Surefire V1 Vampire (1xCR123A): 5% lower
It seems that tape switch just can't handle higher current.
The lower output Vampire did not drop that much.


I also took the Olight Odin to test, the Tape Switch did not have any brightness drop compared to the tail switch, basically zero.
Using surefire's tape switch, it is difficult to achieve the declared lumens, which is quite surprising.

 

[19dsniper]

"As of August 2020, Surefire customer service says that the SR07 ST07 switch may not allow the M600DF to run at full brightness when using an 18650 cell."


When I saw this statement, I decided to do a small test.
Using my light meter, check how much the brightness will drop when using the tape switch compared to the click switch.


A light meter cannot detect the ture light intensity of the flashlight, but it can get a relative change in value.


The brightness reduction of ST07 Tape Switch compared to Z68 Click Switch is as follows: (The batteries are brand new or fully charged)
- Surefire M600DF (1x18650): 20% lower
- Surefire M600U (2xCR123A): 22% lower
- Surefire V1 Vampire (1xCR123A): 5% lower
It seems that tape switch just can't handle higher current.
The lower output Vampire did not drop that much.


I also took the Olight Odin to test, the Tape Switch did not have any brightness drop compared to the tail switch, basically zero.
Using surefire's tape switch, it is difficult to achieve the declared lumens, which is quite surprising.

I hope this isn't too off topic.. But do you know if this is across the board? I am getting a ModLite PLHV2 that I plan on using on a duty rifle with a SR07 switch. The light arrives next week and this is the first I'm hearing of this. I just wonder if I'm going to have problems, or reduced output with the PLHV2.

 

[Delta_Mike79]

I wanted to drop my 2 cents on this thread because I've been doing some research and testing on this as well so take it for what it's worth.

Here's the TLDR. I have 4 switches to activate the M600DF. Stock tail cap, Modlite ModButton, XM07 (ST07** & DS00).

Test 1: Out of the 4, the stock tail cap has the highest output. The other 3 switches are about the same output and noticeably lower output than the stock cap. **The ST07 is sensitive to the amount of pressure you apply/placement of your thumb.

Test 2: I compared the stock cap output with my X300U-B and the spill on the X300 edges the M600 slightly and X300 has a warmer hue. In terms of brightness they're about the same candela based on my observation! Disappointing because I would have thought 16,000 vs 11,300 candela would be noticeably brighter, but in my case they're not.

In testing, I used the Red SF18650B battery (3500 mAh) and Streamlight's 18650 battery (2600 mAh), both performed similarly, but the Streamlights drain much faster, which is a given. I used SF CR123s in my X300U.

Conclusion: If you want to get full output, I think you have to stick with the stock tail cap. The 2 positives with the tail cap are less parts that could cause issues and max output, but depending on where you mount the light, accessing the switch could be less convenient over a remote switch. The other 3, you get mounting flexibility, however, less output and you spend more $$ for less performance.

If you've read this far, here some other details about my situation. I'm on my second head for this light! The first head poop the bed which I suspect was from the concussion of my 11.5. I have a birdcage style flash hider and I mounted the light head slightly behind the slits so it wasn't getting direct hits by the gas. I noticed after a couple of range sessions the head was done. It would light up partially and quickly dim to 15% output. I sent the whole unit back to SF and they sent a new head and the new head did the same thing after my last range session. The dimming issue happened, but not as bad and it went away after I got home and started messing around with it.

My question for you guys is where do you mount your lights and can the concussion of an 11.5 kill these lights? I've read anecdotes in other forums, but no one definitively claiming this happened to their lights. SF touts this light as "Virtually indestructible ultra-high-output LED" so if this head dies after my next session, I'm going to send it back for a second replacement and cut my losses and go with a head from another company. Also, if you ever pick up PLHV2, it would be great if you could do a follow up post here.

 

[Struecker]

I wanted to drop my 2 cents on this thread because I've been doing some research and testing on this as well so take it for what it's worth.

Here's the TLDR. I have 4 switches to activate the M600DF. Stock tail cap, Modlite ModButton, XM07 (ST07** & DS00).

Test 1: Out of the 4, the stock tail cap has the highest output. The other 3 switches are about the same output and noticeably lower output than the stock cap. **The ST07 is sensitive to the amount of pressure you apply/placement of your thumb.

Test 2: I compared the stock cap output with my X300U-B and the spill on the X300 edges the M600 slightly and X300 has a warmer hue. In terms of brightness they're about the same candela based on my observation! Disappointing because I would have thought 16,000 vs 11,300 candela would be noticeably brighter, but in my case they're not.

In testing, I used the Red SF18650B battery (3500 mAh) and Streamlight's 18650 battery (2600 mAh), both performed similarly, but the Streamlights drain much faster, which is a given. I used SF CR123s in my X300U.

Conclusion: If you want to get full output, I think you have to stick with the stock tail cap. The 2 positives with the tail cap are less parts that could cause issues and max output, but depending on where you mount the light, accessing the switch could be less convenient over a remote switch. The other 3, you get mounting flexibility, however, less output and you spend more $$ for less performance.

If you've read this far, here some other details about my situation. I'm on my second head for this light! The first head poop the bed which I suspect was from the concussion of my 11.5. I have a birdcage style flash hider and I mounted the light head slightly behind the slits so it wasn't getting direct hits by the gas. I noticed after a couple of range sessions the head was done. It would light up partially and quickly dim to 15% output. I sent the whole unit back to SF and they sent a new head and the new head did the same thing after my last range session. The dimming issue happened, but not as bad and it went away after I got home and started messing around with it.

My question for you guys is where do you mount your lights and can the concussion of an 11.5 kill these lights? I've read anecdotes in other forums, but no one definitively claiming this happened to their lights. SF touts this light as "Virtually indestructible ultra-high-output LED" so if this head dies after my next session, I'm going to send it back for a second replacement and cut my losses and go with a head from another company. Also, if you ever pick up PLHV2, it would be great if you could do a follow up post here.

You can try the Olight Odin, which is significantly brighter than M600DF, and zero brightness drop with tape switch.


The design of surefire tape switch is too old, it's time for update.

 

[Frank_Castle]

Hello,

Late but related. Wondering if the Olight Odin tape switch or end cap can be replaced by something else? My switch failed and upon its replacement it also failed. Its a decent bright light but its not suited for its intended job at this point.

How mine failed. It would turn on by itself. It would also fail to turn off, or fail to turn on. If I rubbed the cap like a wheel it would turn on. Presumably the wire gave out. Not by any rough handling. They replaced it after a few weeks of emailing and in a month or so sent me a new one. The new one failed out of box. I am done with its trust. Sadly I was excited when they came out as the smaller pistol light seemed decent.

If there is a alternative cap or switch I would try and salvage it. I really don't want a magnetic thumb button. Allen wrenches already showed me its not a good plan B.