AKOray AA & AAA Review + RUNTIME

jumpin jack flash

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Thanks for the good information,Tremendo.

What is your opinion of the quality and color of the beam, and the operation of the tail switch? I've been considering this light and these two issues are important to me. However, I do know that the tint can vary a good bit from light to light, even within the same model.
 

Tremendo

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What is your opinion of the quality and color of the beam, and the operation of the tail switch? I've been considering this light and these two issues are important to me. However, I do know that the tint can vary a good bit from light to light, even within the same model.
My beam is fine, a little bit of CREE rings, but not bad. The reverse clicky switch is deep set, a little harder to press, but tail standable. The light is pretty well built, double o-rings, etc, even though the threading is a little big, seems fine once lubed. Overall it's an absolute winner in the price range. It's a great light for 14500's and a good light for AA's.
 

AndrewZorn

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Mine is warm, if not a little greenish... but very very little ringing.

The tailcap is hard to push. The first thing I thought is it seems like you push the rubber in, THEN the switch. Not sure if you have ever done so, but it seems like when replacing the rubber switch cover on a Surefire style light, but the little 'stem' is not long enough... a longer 'stem' makes the switch actuate easier.
It actually takes an effort to click this with my index finger, I pretty much have to hold the light in such a way that I can click it with my thumb.

Not knocking on it though, the overall quality is incredible for $13 (I also have the glowy 5-mode. After figuring out how to finally OPERATE multi-mode, I don't mind the stupid strobes near as much... glad I have the glowy stuff over programmability.).
 

sparkysko

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Both of my K106's have had similar beam color. Warm, maybe slightly blue. Looks good, even compared to my warm tint. (I put in a supposed Q4 5A emitter in mine, and the lux dropped by 30%)

As far as heat, I've only had heat be a problem if I accidentally turn the light on while it's in my pocket (I thought the battery would explode)

Lux was half as bright on nimhs as it was on 14500's, but it depends on the quality of your nimhs.

I have ridiculously big hands, and I can press the button with my thumb without hassle.

If anyone wants to replace the oring in the head, use the 20mm. The stock o-ring is very skinny however, and doesn't block light. You might get a few percent less light if you put a glow-ring in it.
 

Kilovolt

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I have taken my AK-106, put in a freshly charged 14500 (4.20V), placed it upright on my desk and checked the temperature of the head at max level with an IR digital thermometer:

- initial head temp. (= room): 20.5°C
- 1 min: 25.5°C
- 2 min: 28.0°C
- 3 min: 29.5°C
- 4 min: 30.0°C
- 5 min: 31.5°C
- 6 min: 32.0°C
- 7 min: 33.0°C
- 8 min: 34.0°C
- 9 min: 35.0°C
-10 min: 35.0°C
-15 min: 36.5°C

After 15 minutes the light is just slightly warm to the touch. And BTW the output of my specimen with a 14500 is 3,000 lux at 1 meter. :)
 

monkeymagic

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DX had a bad batch/shipment of Trustfire 14500s, I know because after a couple weeks I finally have a replacement set on they way. Then again, mine don't turn on, or indicate they are charging, or anything.

Thanks for the heads up, I ordered a couple of AW 14500's, I hope they work.
 

Kilovolt

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A friend has an Akoray K-106 (3 modes, programmable, delivered Sept.09) that has a reset mode which brings it back to the original factory settings: high - medium - strobe. It is activated with 4 half press - very short pause - 4 half press.

Mine (delivered Oct.09) does not do that. :thinking:


Anyone has experienced this? :popcorn:
 

kosPap

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well here is a lok at te Akoray copy, Trustfire F20...

the light was bought for the kid of a friend....I chose it because the Ultrafire copy was not in stock, and I chanced at a more conventional construction (PCB solder on the pill0 in order to get some easier maintanability...

So here it is (next to a Rexlight):

igp4891.jpg


igp4893.jpg


igp4895.jpg


Thread are still rectangular, smooth but they seem shallower than the original. Also there is saome jiggle of the hed unless it is screwed tight against the body...

igp4900.jpg


Notice the smaller than the socket PCB.

igp4918.jpg



And here is an output comparison with teh Akoray AK-106 and The RAex 2.0 (P4)

tf20output.jpg


Overall and for the price it is a good yet an expendable flashlight....

Enjoy, Kostas
 
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kosPap

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hmm that one I forgot to check, not that I am able to notice....stragely i never have noticed the effect...guess I am blessed...

Also the light is out of my hands now....
 

moviles

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the current draw with akoray aa with 14500 still be wrong

it cant be 3.52 amp!!!

I have 2 akoray 106 (aa) and current draw with 14500 its 1.1 and 0.9 amp(battery at 4.2v)...and the current draw with ni/mh its arround 1.5-1.7 amp

your readings must be wrong ,acording to your readigs:

akoray aa with eneloop: 1.3v x 1.03 amp= 1.3w....
akoray aa with 14500: 4.2v x 3.52w amp= 14.78w wow more than some p7 flashlights and explosion risk too...

table2az4.jpg
 
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romteb

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the current draw with akoray aa with 14500 still be wrong

it cant be 3.52 amp!!!

I have 2 akoray 106 (aa) and current draw with 14500 its 1.1 and 0.9 amp(battery at 4.2v)...and the current draw with ni/mh its arround 1.5-1.7 amp

your readings must be wrong ,acording to your readigs:

akoray aa with eneloop: 1.3v x 1.03 amp= 1.3w....
akoray aa with 14500: 4.2v x 3.52w amp= 14.78w wow more than some p7 flashlights and explosion risk too...

In max mode with a Li-ion the akoray probably enters direct drive, if the vf of the led is low enough this kind of current is perfectly possible, one of the 3 modes akoray i received was 2,3A on max with a Li-ion.
 

moviles

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In max mode with a Li-ion the akoray probably enters direct drive, if the vf of the led is low enough this kind of current is perfectly possible, one of the 3 modes akoray i received was 2,3A on max with a Li-ion.


I have 2 akoray 106 3 modes and current draw are low 0.9-1.1 amp
the runtime are arround 45 min

2.3 amp its possible I have 14500 flashlights with current draw around 2 amp (uf a10, uf c3 ss..)

but 3.52 amp???? that must be wrong

with 3.52 amp the runtime will be 900 mah /3520 ma= 0.25 hours = 15 minutes and it will be warm very fast

and with 3.52 amp the explosion risk...

3.52 amp:duck: this its more powerful than my old uf c3 p7
20a5o4j.jpg


(now I have it with sku 7882 driver at 2.5 amp for reduce the explosion risk)
 

moviles

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maybe if comes with a led with vf very low....

but I am sure that more of the 95% of the akoray 106 they have a current draw with 14500 less than 2,5 amp
 

kosPap

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guys earlier on in this very thread the posibility of the driver characteristics fooloing the DMM was explored...
 

romteb

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If the data in the box column are mesured lumens, there is a strong correlation between those numbers and the amp draw, what do you think ?
 

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