All of my LED lights are Seouled. (Pics)
- Thread starter Supernam
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bessiebenny
Enlightened
Did the princetontec eos 1W improve a lot with the replacement to ssc?
Supernam
Enlightened
Yup. Now the light is actually useful at the lower levels.
Fusion_m8
Flashlight Enthusiast
Supernam
Enlightened
No, I did not do this and everything worked fine.
I don't know anything about the L4. I have no experience with the Gladius, however this mod is quite common and there are a few threads on it. I think it's a strait swap. I personally don't mess with lights unless they are strait emitter or star swaps.
Sorry I missed you. I had a significant doughnut also in my stock L6. I can't tell you with certainty because I didn't originally do the swap. At first, I sent my stock L6 head to CPF member CM. He swapped out the LuxV for a Cree P4. He also turned up the bias to 1 amp. After opening it up, I saw his work and it looks like he had to swap out some semiconductors on the driver to boost the current. I think the stock KL6 is running less than 1 amp, so you can use a SSC but won't get to take advantage of it's potential at 1amp. This is not something I am familiar with so I can't give advice on how to do it, or what components you need. You may want to PM CM.
The KL6 has plenty of aluminum to dissipate the heat at 1amp current. I've ran it for 30minutes strait and it only gets warm and did not continue to get any warmer after 10 minutes.
Other than that, once you unscrew the module from inside the head (3 phillips screws), you'll see the emitter is mounted on a black aluminum plate. You need to desolder the wires and scrape/grind/remove the old emitter off. The aluminum plate needs to be completely flat. Here's the tricky part, you need to thermal epoxy a bare SSC emitter to the center of the plate. There are 2 holes where the emitter wires come up through the plate and you will use these to center the emitter. I simply epoxied it, then made tiny adjustments until i felt it was centered. You pretty much have to eye it unless you have some other way of centering it. I also used a little ruler to make sure it was the same distance from every side of the plate. Once it sets in about 5-10 minutes, just solder back on the red and black wires and reassemble.
You won't need to modify the reflector. I got lucky with centering the led as you can see in the picture. Again, I can probably do the emitter swap, but I don't know how to adjust the bias.
EDIT:
Here is the link my L6 after I got it back from CM. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156263
Here is the link on my modded Black Diamond SPOT headlamp. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/174638
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Fusion_m8
Flashlight Enthusiast
:thumbsup: WOW! Thanks for the tips Supernam! Think I'll PM CM and see if he'll mod my KL6 with a SSC or CREE...
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Supernam,
Nice modding! Very impressive for just starting.
However, Stromberg wrote:
There was a note in datasheet that slug of the emitter is connected to anode, does this cause any problems or is it necessary to isolate pcb electrically from the heat sink?
To which you replied,
No, I did not do this and everything worked fine.
Let's just say that you've been lucky so far than. The slug on the Seoul P4 emitter is connected to positive, i.e., it is not electrically isolated. One should use a thermal epoxy to connect a Seoul P4 emitter to any heatsink, or you run the risk of losing the LED.
If one is working with a Seoul P4 star, then use the thermal compound, not epoxy, since the star base is isolated.
Nice modding! Very impressive for just starting.
However, Stromberg wrote:
There was a note in datasheet that slug of the emitter is connected to anode, does this cause any problems or is it necessary to isolate pcb electrically from the heat sink?
To which you replied,
No, I did not do this and everything worked fine.
Let's just say that you've been lucky so far than. The slug on the Seoul P4 emitter is connected to positive, i.e., it is not electrically isolated. One should use a thermal epoxy to connect a Seoul P4 emitter to any heatsink, or you run the risk of losing the LED.
If one is working with a Seoul P4 star, then use the thermal compound, not epoxy, since the star base is isolated.
bluecrow76
Enlightened
Hey Supernam,
Great lights! I just did my Streamlight Scorpion LED (it was my first "big" light also). I wanted to know if you used a spacer on all/some/none of your lights.
This was my first Seoul mod and I didn't have anything to use as a spacer on hand (and I really wanted to see how much brighter it would be... WOW!) so I just AA'd it on. Once I put it back together it works great, throws well (down my driveway across the street and down the other driveway) and is REALLY floody (I actually like it). I have a Lumapower M1-XRE with the Seoul module and the two lights are about equal (although the Lumapower is warmer). I'm assuming that if I used a spacer it would raise the LED, I would see more of the center yellow of the emitter in the reflector, it would have a more defined hot spot and would through farther.
Great lights! I just did my Streamlight Scorpion LED (it was my first "big" light also). I wanted to know if you used a spacer on all/some/none of your lights.
This was my first Seoul mod and I didn't have anything to use as a spacer on hand (and I really wanted to see how much brighter it would be... WOW!) so I just AA'd it on. Once I put it back together it works great, throws well (down my driveway across the street and down the other driveway) and is REALLY floody (I actually like it). I have a Lumapower M1-XRE with the Seoul module and the two lights are about equal (although the Lumapower is warmer). I'm assuming that if I used a spacer it would raise the LED, I would see more of the center yellow of the emitter in the reflector, it would have a more defined hot spot and would through farther.
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Supernam
Enlightened
You are correct. However, luckily, this swap uses the star and not the bare emitter. BTW, you are the man! Thanks for the fast shipping!
I did not use a spacer in this. You may want to experiment with this. I was pleased with the turnout of the beam. It seams to be slightly different than before in that it is overall way brighter. It still has a nice defined spot in the middle, however now it has a more noticeable corona (part where the beam fades into spill). Before it felt like there was spot, and there was spill, not much transition.
Fusion_m8
Flashlight Enthusiast
Got my KL6 modded with a USXOH SSC-P4 by cpf member yclo... and the results is nothing short of amazing!!! The traditional Lux V doughnut hole is gone and to me, the KL6 reflector + SSC-P4 = beam is PERFECT!
The photos I'd taken do not show just how beautiful the P4 beam is, the spill is very bright and the hotspot is very small and concentrated, producing about double the throw over the original Lux V!
Its a direct swap and the P4 centres perfectly in the reflector opening, the standard KL6 driver from Surefire runs about 670mah. The P4 output from my estimates has roughly doubled the Lux V and also giving a warmer and whiter colour output.
USXOH SSC-P4
The PERFECT KL6 BEAM - NO DOUGHNUT!
The photos I'd taken do not show just how beautiful the P4 beam is, the spill is very bright and the hotspot is very small and concentrated, producing about double the throw over the original Lux V!
Its a direct swap and the P4 centres perfectly in the reflector opening, the standard KL6 driver from Surefire runs about 670mah. The P4 output from my estimates has roughly doubled the Lux V and also giving a warmer and whiter colour output.
USXOH SSC-P4
The PERFECT KL6 BEAM - NO DOUGHNUT!
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
That wouldn't be a problem if the light uses a constant current driver, no?
Fusion_m8
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have no idea about electronics, but I was told that SSCs are basically direct swaps for Luxeons...
The KL6 is running at a constant 670mah, I have no idea how it regulates the current between 3 and 4 cell configurations.
The KL6 is running at a constant 670mah, I have no idea how it regulates the current between 3 and 4 cell configurations.
Fusion_m8
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yeah, I had a T3 once, great light, but needs more output!
The regulation in the T3 is almost perfectly flat. It'd also be interesting to see how a SSC-P4's beam will look like with the TIROS and not through a reflector!
The regulation in the T3 is almost perfectly flat. It'd also be interesting to see how a SSC-P4's beam will look like with the TIROS and not through a reflector!
Thought this was worth a pic of my "modded to SSC's"
Missing is Tikka XP which I seouled then sold.
All done by me except the Stenlight which was done by the Stenlight company, how's that for product support. :thumbsup:
Missing is Tikka XP which I seouled then sold.
All done by me except the Stenlight which was done by the Stenlight company, how's that for product support. :thumbsup:
I am going to order a flashlight from this website that also happens to sell the 
SSC P4 Star MCPCB (U Rank).
SSC P4 Star MCPCB (U Rank).Probedude
Enlightened
I just placed an order for some SSC U Bin emitters from DX. Hope to breath some new life into my 5D maglite I've had for 20+ years.
Fusion_m8
Flashlight Enthusiast
How are you going to mod the 5D?
Wouldn't it be more economical to get a Terralux SSC-P4 drop-in??
Wouldn't it be more economical to get a Terralux SSC-P4 drop-in??
