Any Info on Grizzly G0602 10"x22" Lathe

[frisco]

how about flammability with kerosene?
and dose any one know where i could get
quick retract tool post. no sure if thats what its
called.

I got a QCTP (quick change tool post) from http://www.cdcotools.com/

I'm very pleased with it and many other things I've received from cdco. I've also been buying tools from www.lathemaster.com

frisco

 

[frisco]

Jim-

Thanks for the tips! Well received!

frisco

 

[Torque1st]

I have never had a problem with kerosene as a cutting fluid for aluminum. There is no open flame when a part is machined and it is really hard to ignite. The entire shop where I worked used it for aluminum. For steel we used a water base cutting fluid. Water base fluids get real stinky if anyone working around them chews tobacco or sunflower seeds tho. We had regular cutting oil on a few machines also.

 

[J!m]

Jim-

Thanks for the tips! Well received!

frisco

Glad I could help!

One note on Kerosene lubricant:

The new 'low sulphur' fuels may become less and less effective as a cuting lubricant. The sulphur is a big part of the lubricant, and a similar problem for my Diesel truck- I use addatives to replace the lost sulphur so my injector pump doesn't melt-down.

The additive I use is called "Howie's" (available at truck stops across the country) and I bet it alone would be an excellent cutting/tapping fluid (although I have not tried it yet myself) for aluminum...

(PS if you try it, let us know how it works!):wave:

 

[Torque1st]

I would have to cut some aluminum again with Kerosene to see if anything had changed much over the years.

Speaking of additives and engines, -even the new oils have changed. If you have an engine with a flat tappet cam the new oils do not have enough zinc and other anti-wear additives in them to prevent excessive tappet and cam lobe wear. The oil to use nowadays is diesel engine oil for a flat tappet cam engine. After rebuilding one of those engines use diesel engine oil and a cam break-in additive from the cam manufacturer for the first few oil changes. Then continue to use the diesel engine oil.

 

[fludunlimited]

I got a QCTP (quick change tool post) from http://www.cdcotools.com/

I'm very pleased with it and many other things I've received from cdco. I've also been buying tools from www.lathemaster.com

frisco

thanks

the tool post im talking about might not exsist.
do thay make somthing for cuting threads
that will pull the bit away from the surface
and put it back without turning the feed.
that way you can back up, put the bit back and
dial in a little more.

 

[cmacclel]

thanks

the tool post im talking about might not exsist.
do thay make somthing for cuting threads
that will pull the bit away from the surface
and put it back without turning the feed.
that way you can back up, put the bit back and
dial in a little more.

Hardinge Lathes are setup like that.

Mac

 

[Torque1st]

I always just backed out a turn on the cross slide and then advanced it back to zero (or a sharpie pen mark) on the dial. Then dialed in more on the compound set at 29°. You can use a dial indicator on the cross slide to make your re-positioning certain. All depth of thread cut adjustment is made with the compound set at 29°. This does make the amount advanced on the compund different from the depth of cut. The actual depth of cut is less:

Using a 29°angle on the compound for threading produces an excellent surface finish and avoids tool breakdown problems that can occur at the worst time (like the final pass).

Note- For most threading a single turn on the cross slide is adequate. For very course pitch threads two turns may be required. Most compounds run .100"/turn or .125"/turn or their metric equivalents. Your lathe and the number of turns required to clear the thread may vary.

 

[J!m]

The Hardinge does have this feature; however all the tool room guys here just turn it back by hand, and re-set for each pass.

Lately they have been using threading inserts to cut threads. Even on stainless, they hold up fine. The new insert technology seems to prevent the dreaded tool break down on the last pass (and that is the only time a tool would fail of course!).

The nice thing about the modern inserts is that they repeat within a thousandth, so if you did manage to chip one, you can back out, swap it, and get on with your life. You can re-zero on the next part without blowing your tolerance, or, in the case of the Hardinge, re-zero before continuing due to their better threading drive system...

 

[Torque1st]

I have always used insert tooling for threading (after school) and never had a problem using the 29° compound system. But others that used the cross slide to feed in directly with inserts did have problems with tool breakdown occasionally which can also cause a divot in the threads or even leave small particles of the insert in the metal. Shop production records showed the differences with the two methods and direct feeding with the cross slide was banned in the shop. We were producing die sets for plastic pipe extrusion that were just plain too expensive to mess up with the last threading operation.

 

[frisco]

Just got a Bull Nose Live Center and some boring tools. Took an old beater Mag and did some practice on the outside and the inside. Still need to learn how to use the part that supports the outside while working on the inside.





frisco

 

[modamag]

nice job fris

 

[tattooedwhitetrash]

Anyone have any more information on or experiences with the Grizzly 10x22.

 

[StrikerDown]

Just got a Bull Nose Live Center and some boring tools. Took an old beater Mag and did some practice on the outside and the inside. Still need to learn how to use the part that supports the outside while working on the inside.



frisco

Do you mean the steady rest?

How is it going with the Lathe? I am thinking about getting one for home/hobby gun, flashlight and misc. I really like the 1" through spindle size.

 

[tyleryoungblood]

how about flammability with kerosene?
and dose any one know where i could get
quick retract tool post. no sure if thats what its
called.

I also own the G0602 and I'm very impressed with it so far. It has a lot of nice features for $1k.

Grizzly sells a Quick Change Tool Post (QCTP) for lathes with a 10" swing that works nicely with this lathe. You will have to mill the blank to fit the T-slot on the cross slide, but you mentioned that you had access to a mill, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I made a video about the QCTP upgrade and posted it on Youtube, you might find it helpful. The link below skips the first 51 seconds and "cuts to the chase" so to speak.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r2finp1RCw#t=00m51s

Another hitch you will likely run into is finding the right Gearbox Oil called for in the manual. If memory serves, it was Mobil DTE Heavy-Medium. I looked all over and finally found it for sale from Enco in 1 gal quantities. You might also want to buy way oil at the same time (to save on shipping). I bought Mobil Vactra #2 and it works fine. 1 Gallon might seem like a lot of way oil, but I've gone through a lot already.

And lastly, if you're looking for a few beginner projects to "cut your teeth" on before you move on to your bike parts, consider taking a look a my website:

ProjectsInMetal.com

I've compiled several projects for the lathe and mill, complete with plans in PDF format, and they are free to download.

Good luck with your new lathe! As a fellow G0602 owner, I know you'll enjoy it.

Tyler