Anyone ever wish for a Fenix P2/P3T?

[One2gofst]

I was just thinking about this today. I like the simplicity of the L1/L2T lights. In fact the L2T would be really great, except I like the slightly shorter,slightly wider form factor of the P3D.

Its not really a big deal for me having the reverse clicky. I leave my light in turbo, figuring if I need light "right now!" I will probably need the most, but when I need less light I will probably have time to rotate the head. Still, I like the idea of being able to use a forward clicky for momentary, in either high or low without accidentally going into a different brightness level or strobe mode.

Anyone else feel the same way?

 

[Niconical]

I don't have any of the 'T' range, but from what I understand, it's 2 levels, high with the bezel tight, low with it loose.

If Fenix did a 2xCR123A version of that, I'd buy it

Alternatively, 4sevens, 2xCR123A EX10, pleeease....?



EDIT:
I've just realised that what I described is actually a TK10, but I meant in P3D size/shape.

 

[One2gofst]

Yeah, thats exactly what I am talking about. The P3D envelope is much more EDC friendly than a light like the TK10. Additionally, I would like a lower low. IMO, 60 lumens is not a true low, but more like the Med power of the P3D

 

[Al Combs]

I was just thinking about this today. I like the simplicity of the L1/L2T lights. In fact the L2T would be really great, except I like the slightly shorter,slightly wider form factor of the P3D.

Its not really a big deal for me having the reverse clicky. I leave my light in turbo, figuring if I need light "right now!" I will probably need the most, but when I need less light I will probably have time to rotate the head. Still, I like the idea of being able to use a forward clicky for momentary, in either high or low without accidentally going into a different brightness level or strobe mode.

Anyone else feel the same way?

What about one of these? With a black or orange tactical switch mod for 9 bucks, you could convert your P3D to forward clicky. The switch and boot are a little bit longer so the light won't tailstand afterwards. I think it's an improvement to be able to turn the light on with greater ease. If you still need it to tailstand, stick it in a glass.

 

[orcinus]

I don't have any of the 'T' range, but from what I understand, it's 2 levels, high with the bezel tight, low with it loose.

How is that any different than a P3D?

 

[HKJ]

How is that any different than a P3D?

The switch is a forward switch and does not change between any modes

 

[Niconical]

How is that any different than a P3D?

Assuming the P3 is the same as my P2, it's low/med/high/SOS with the head loose, or Turbo/strobe with it tight. I'd quite like a P3D but just 2 settings, tight starts in high, loose starts in low. Also more convenient for the occasional times someone else holds and uses such a light.

Although as mentioned, that would all be irrelevant to me if 4sevens does a 2xCR123A EX10

 

[orcinus]

But that's exactly how i use my P3D most of the time. I don't "scroll" through modes at all - i just use low and turbo, by tightening and loosening the head. Since Fenixes don't remember the modes, you always get a low or turbo when you switch it on, depending on the position of the head.

The switch being a reverse clickie doesn't really bother me on this light because i don't have the need to use it in momentary (if it ever starts bothering me, i'll replace it with a forward clickie). And you don't have to change modes if you don't want to (or need to). No one's forcing you to

(and the other 4 modes are still there in case you ever need them)

 

[RWT1405]

I think you might be missing the point orcinus, SOME people (me anyway) have need for momentary use of a flashlight and don't want to have to worry about switching levels when using it that way.

Don't get me wrong, I really like my P3D's, but what would make them even better (for me anyway) is a 2 level model, such as the L1T (which replaced my P3D's for use as my pocket lights, both at work & off-duty, for that exact reason). Hope this helps. My .02 FWIW

 

[Ayeaux]

You could get a L1T and put a P2D battery tube on it. Then you'd have a P2T V2.0. The L1T will take up to 3v, so primary 123's only. There is somebody on this board who has done it already.

 

[orcinus]

I think you might be missing the point orcinus, SOME people (me anyway) have need for momentary use of a flashlight and don't want to have to worry about switching levels when using it that way.

Unless you need bursts with a short interval (signaling, for example), installing Fenix's forward clickie module in a P3D would give you a perfectly usable momentary. The interval between two activations needed for a mode switch is 2 seconds, AFAIK.

 

[TONY M]

Yeah, thats exactly what I am talking about. The P3D envelope is much more EDC friendly than a light like the TK10. Additionally, I would like a lower low. IMO, 60 lumens is not a true low, but more like the Med power of the P3D

60 lumens is far too high for a low mode. The surefire E2DL has a low of around 5 lumens I think which is more like what I would want.
I still feel that for a general light the Fenix (l/p)D series are better than the (l/p)T lights as they are more versitile.
On another note I would like Fenix to offer their L&P series lights with better knurling as it is needed IMHO.

 

[ninjaboigt]

I have a P2D and the P3D, what would i have to buy to make a P2t or P3T?

could the p3d body work on the L2T head and tailcap? and take the L2T body and put it on the P3d head and tail cap?

Or L1T head and tail cap on a P2D body or p3d body with a batt spacer?

and take the L1T body and put it on the P2d head and tail cap? ( or p3d head and tail cap? )

 

[ninjaboigt]

On another note I would like Fenix to offer their L&P series lights with better knurling as it is needed IMHO.

BIG PLUS ONE, seems that fenix is heading towards more knurling, Dart, T1, TK10, EO1 and now the E20....and whatever i missed in between LOL

EDIT TYPO

 

[One2gofst]

I personally would like a light with a forward clicky that there is no chance of it going into another setting without a deliberate choice on my part, along with the ability for momentary.

As far as cobling something together, at best it is an inelegant solution. Worse still, for me, is that I don't want a light shorter than the P3D, which the head/body/switch combo mentioned is. Plus, I use RCRs in my P3D. For my uses a L2T would be better than the lego, but I much prefer the P3D form factor.

 

[youreacrab]

Lets see the goods, FENIX!

+10000

Why are all of Fenix' new simpler designs being implemented with lesser-binned LED's? I'm die hard Fenix fan for their efficiency but I'm getting soooo sick of the strobe.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I was just thinking about this today. I like the simplicity of the L1/L2T lights. In fact the L2T would be really great, except I like the slightly shorter,slightly wider form factor of the P3D.

Its not really a big deal for me having the reverse clicky. I leave my light in turbo, figuring if I need light "right now!" I will probably need the most, but when I need less light I will probably have time to rotate the head. Still, I like the idea of being able to use a forward clicky for momentary, in either high or low without accidentally going into a different brightness level or strobe mode.

Anyone else feel the same way?

No, I'd rather have a single-level P1 with a forward clicky and a R2.

 

[LA OZ]

P2D at fenix-store has been discounted. Does that mean a new model is going to come out soon?

 

[harddrive]

https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_65&products_id=360

The Q5 one is still there at full price.

 

[LA OZ]

eh, I was hopeful for a fenix answer to the Ex10.