Arc-AAA "explosive decompression" (leaking Duracell)

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zyan

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Oct 31, 2005
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I just had the most startling experience!

I went to use my Arc-AAA, twisted the top... but it wouldn't turn. So I tried unscrewing the top but couldn't turn it that way either! After about 15 seconds of trying to unscrew it (it was really, really tight), it finally budged, at which point the top exploded off across the room several metres with a loud PHPOP! :eek:oo:

Scared the heck out of me! :huh:

Picking the top off the ground I found that the padded foam ring was missing - it was still inside on top of the battery. I tried getting it out but it wouldn't move (and was making a strange fizzling noise), and after prodding it with a paperclip finally removed it and the battery. Turns out the AAA Duracell battery was leaking on the negative terminal - I've never seen a battery leak in my Arc-AAA before. It must have somehow built up pressure!

It was quite a surprising experience to say the least. The question now becomes, how do I clean the gunk out of the Arc-AAA? What should I use? I know it has a corrosion resistant coating and don't want to damage it.
 
Standard Duracell alkaline, just like the one on the Arc Flashlight website actually!
 
Man that sucks

i allways thought duracells were absolutely leakageproof

also i thought that li-ions and lithiums were the only ones that explode.

if the inside of your tube does not comtain electroninparts i think it is best to rinse with a lot of water.

those batteries contain acid and other dangerous corroding stuff.
 
The battery itself didn't explode, but it was leaking and building up pressure inside the tube. When he opened it the pressure was released. Not the first time it happens.
 
I have read about this in the past. I think it's hydrogen gas that is getting out of the alkaline?
My Petzl Tikka XP headlamp has some sort of small catalyst pellet inside to absorb the gas.
 
Yes, so it would seem!

So I should just clean it out with water and a cotton swab?
 
I had the same experience yesterday with my inova x1. A duracell battery had leaked inside. Bummer.

I used baking soda with H2O to dissolve the acid. A qtip was a useful tool to spread it around.
 
I never considered Duracell leakproof! I've seen many Duracell batteries leak in the past!


I was very impressed by Duracells performance back when "Duracell ultras"
then when coppertop came about my first leak was like :wtf:, then a few came in with rapid succession and I basically lost my belief in them as quality cells.

so far it appears to be caused by excessive spring pressure on either contact and forcing the formerly sealed cylinder open, but I've had a few leak in the package, a few on my desk, and a few dried out ones that didn't leak when I smashed it with a shovel...
:shakeheadcell unpredictability is the flashlight's worst enemy:shakehead
 
Sure, a little water and cotton swabs and maybe a little lemon juice or vinegar to neutralize the base.

Alkaline batteries contain potassium hydroxide which is a base ~not an acid.
 
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Sure, a little water and cotton swabs and maybe a little lemon juice or vinegar to neutralize the base.

Alkaline batteries contain potassium hydroxide which is a base ~not an acid.

uh....Alkaline primaries [single use] uses zinc and manganese dioxide (Zn/MnO2), which is a base electrolytic paste

Potassium Hydroxide is an aqueous alkaline electrolyte, used in Alkaline fuel cells
 
Standard Duracell alkaline, just like the one on the Arc Flashlight website actually!

Any alkaline battery can leak.

I don't want to risk an expensive flashlight to leakage damage. Therefore, I power my better AAA, AA, and CR123A flashlights using lithium batteries.
 
I'm with Illum_the_nation. I'd say pressure on the cell from screwing down the head to turn it on.
 
uh....Alkaline primaries [single use] uses zinc and manganese dioxide (Zn/MnO2), which is a base electrolytic paste

Potassium Hydroxide is an aqueous alkaline electrolyte, used in Alkaline fuel cells

Yes, BUT...

"Leaks

Over time, alkaline batteries are prone to leaking potassium hydroxide, a caustic agent that can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. This can be avoided by not attempting to recharge alkaline cells, not mixing different battery types in the same device, replacing all of the batteries at the same time, storing in a dry place, and removing batteries from devices for storage"


So what do they leak again?

wiki
 
Removing batteries for storage! I've seen perfectly matched, from the same brand, new batteries leaking after a few months only (Rayovac). All leak have been caugth in time and didn't cause any damage. Only white powder around the negative contact point. One leaked after some time in my used batteries box.

Yes, BUT...

"Leaks

Over time, alkaline batteries are prone to leaking potassium hydroxide, a caustic agent that can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. This can be avoided by not attempting to recharge alkaline cells, not mixing different battery types in the same device, replacing all of the batteries at the same time, storing in a dry place, and removing batteries from devices for storage"


So what do they leak again?

wiki
 
maybee a bit oftopic(well it is still about leaking batteries)
i have a very expensive(collectors item) hp led watch.
i never ever use alkalines in it because they might leak

i always use silveroxides and the stay dry forever(and full also)

to bad they do not exist in the AA factor , probably bewcause it is to expensive.
 
That's the potassium hydroxide. I think the arc's have a coating to protect the inside from battery failures anyway so after cleaning it up it should be fine. I wonder how effective the coating is. I'm sure someone around here knows...
Removing batteries for storage! I've seen perfectly matched, from the same brand, new batteries leaking after a few months only (Rayovac). All leak have been caugth in time and didn't cause any damage. Only white powder around the negative contact point. One leaked after some time in my used batteries box.
 
The coating on the inside of the AAA didn't seem to make much of a difference when my AAA duracell blew up. I used the light the day before and might have left it on, when I came back I couldn't turn the head. I had to use a pair of pliers with some cotton towel(trying to prevent tool marks even though there are a couple from it) to unscrew it and there was a lot of pressure in the light. I cleaned it many times with alcohol and it took many changes of grease to get the threads to turn somewhat smoothly. I found that synthetic bicycle grease (Pedros) worked the best for smoothness and electrical contact and I did try krytox 50/50 and silicon grease. The inside of the light is still black but now the threads are smooth and I don't ever have a problem with bad electrical contact issues I had with the silicon grease and shortly after the battery blew up.

~CPEng
 
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