Arc LS First Run Converter Questions

[darkzero]

I purchased a Frist Run Arc LS from someone years ago. I remember the seller said something about a switch that changes brightness. When I flip the switch I can't tell the difference.

Is the switch really for changing output & is the switch stock? There's a jumper connected to the Luxeon cathode. Is this supposed to be there? The inductor, is it the same spec inductor that the regular Arc LS converters use?

I tried searching for a while but could find anything.

Thanks

 

[chimo]

If there's a switch, it sounds like the aftermerket "grey" board and not the original first run.

link

IIRC, the original first run had essentially a pair of ArcAAA circuits running in parallel.

 

[Gransee]

The board pictured was not made by Arc but by one of the modders.

peter

 

[nightshade]

The switch is for low and high output. I can't remember the values. The board was made by the gent who started Pierce lights IIRC. http://www.piercelight.com/
Should be a good host for P4 upgrade, etc.

 

[chimo]

The info on the board can be found in the link I posted above.

 

[tvodrd]

I have one of those which was a gift from CPF'r moses, and I think done by his brother. (It's been a few years.) Larry

 

[darkzero]

If there's a switch, it sounds like the aftermerket "grey" board and not the original first run.

link

IIRC, the original first run had essentially a pair of ArcAAA circuits running in parallel.

Thanks Chimo, your posts in that thread are very informative. I believe there's something wrong with mine. Sometimes when I flip the switch it makes no difference in output. If I play with it I can get it brighter but it makes a high pitch sound when outputting bright. I reflowed all the components with no luck.

I was supecting that the inductor was bad because of the marks on it, the bezel is putting pressure on it when screwed down. My other Arc LS was dim & it had a chipped inductor, I replaced it with a Coilcraft DO1608C-332 & now it's bright again. Looking at the pics in the thread you linked, the inductor says 100 on it & the inductor for my LSH-P says 332 on it. I guess 332 stands for 3.3uH. Can I use the 3.3uH or must I use a 1.0uH inductor like the CoilCraft D01608C-102

Also you mentioned something about the cap that is at R3 that shouldn't be there. Looking at mine it looks like the cap is stacked on top of a resistor. Should I remove that cap?

Thanks.

 

[chimo]

Thanks Chimo, your posts in that thread are very informative. I believe there's something wrong with mine. Sometimes when I flip the switch it makes no difference in output. If I play with it I can get it brighter but it makes a high pitch sound when outputting bright. I reflowed all the components with no luck.

I was supecting that the inductor was bad because of the marks on it, the bezel is putting pressure on it when screwed down. My other Arc LS was dim & it had a chipped inductor, I replaced it with a Coilcraft DO1608C-332 & now it's bright again. Looking at the pics in the thread you linked, the inductor says 100 on it & the inductor for my LSH-P says 332 on it. I guess 332 stands for 3.3uH. Can I use the 3.3uH or must I use a 1.0uH inductor like the CoilCraft D01608C-102

Also you mentioned something about the cap that is at R3 that shouldn't be there. Looking at mine it looks like the cap is stacked on top of a resistor. Should I remove that cap?

Thanks.

The cap on R3 is likely for circuit stability. I'm not sure on the inductor - I don't know which version is the original version the 3.3uH or 10uH.

Paul

 

[darkzero]

The cap on R3 is likely for circuit stability. I'm not sure on the inductor - I don't know which version is the original version the 3.3uF or 10uF.

Paul

Ok, I will leave the cap at R3 then. 3.3uF is what is used on this Arc LS converter:

I'm trying to figure out what this custom First Run converter uses. In bombelman's pic it says 100 on the inductor:

Would that more likely to be 10uF as you mentioned or 1uF?

 

[chimo]

Your last pic shows a 10uH.

Ok, I will leave the cap at R3 then. 3.3uF is what is used on this Arc LS converter:

I'm trying to figure out what this custom First Run converter uses. In bombelman's pic it says 100 on the inductor:

Would that more likely to be 10uF as you mentioned or 1uF?

Edit: mental lapse

 

[karlthev]

I have one of those which was a gift from CPF'r moses, and I think done by his brother. (It's been a few years.) Larry

Yes, get in touch with Moses on CPF. His brother was the creator of this one.



Karl

 

[darkzero]

Your last pic shows a 10uH.

Thank you chimo! :twothumbs

I remember Moses. Hope he is still around. So Moses' brother is PierceM10?