Thanks for the information but I only need the body. I already have head, tailcap and dropin.
Body for Surefire 6P parts
- Thread starter DE73
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letschat7
Flashlight Enthusiast
Try looking in Germany.
letschat7
Flashlight Enthusiast
They are ITAR controlled here not available for export.
I've never found that incredibly important, and have never had a factory body bored out for 18650's.. I'd rather have a factory example. If it's bored out, it's also less reliable with 16500's 17500's and CR123A's. The batteries rattle around in the larger tube.
With a SureFire 6P body, folks usually just want the option to use an 18650 rechargeable, with 2xCR123 primaries as a back-up. Someone with skill and experience can bore out the body just enough for a tight fit with an 18650 that minimizes rattle with two primaries. Yes, the rattle can be a bit annoying. But for many, worth it considering what you get in exchange for putting up with it.
Keep in mind, this was back when all RCR123 rechargeables were 3.7v. And, 3.0v such cells were unheard of. So, if you wanted a reliable rechargeable option in a light as compact as an SF 6P, it was bored out body or nothing.
I honestly don't understand where you are coming from. The bored body will cause rattle, and this leads to issues like flickering and non-reliance. You never needed to have a bored out body to run a P90 or a Malkoff on rechargeables in a 6P or 9P body. In fact many people have always done it in a G2 or G3. Not my preference though. I remember the first time I ran a P90 in a G2 with rechargeables back about 2004. It was amazing.
Only should cause a tiny bit of rattle, at worst. No flickering issues. But truth is, it was very easy to go too far when boring out those SF bodies. A lot of members did. Causing reliability issues. I have a Leef C-C custom 9P body that can take two rechargeables or 3xCR123 primaries. Rattle is barely audible. Never a single flickering or reliability issues. Have a Fivemega custom 6P body. Again, no issues at all. Takes one 18650 or 2xCR123 primaries. I wasn't going to risk ruining a perfectly good stock 6P body by boring one out myself. I know my skill level when it comes to that, and I admit that it's very low.
Yea, and I've seen them go bad. I also know you can use a battery sleeve as well. I do have well done 18650 bodies, but it takes a strong spring on the LED head or lamp assembly, and also one on the tailcap to make them reliable with other batteries. My preference over the years from what I have seen is to just not bother. I always prefer reliablibity out in the field over most things and I can usually just grab more batteries. Especially since 17500's used to be very common. And now 16670's seem to have a pretty high capacity. They would always fit without boring.
Also, there have been different tolerances for 18650 over the years. The different protected versions, the INC? The IMR's, it's all over the place.
I also remember seeing a Crosshairs C2 that some guy had bored out years ago.. I told him not to. He did it and the body bulged out. I wanted to throw up.
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Just being honest, clearly our experiences are different. I've had excellent luck over the years. Still, will admit it's nice nowadays to just be able to pop in rechargeable cells; without having to first reach for power-tools before they'll fit.
Yea, I was gonna say the same thing, we have different experiences in this. I like rechargeable cells still, but they're mostly for my higher powered lights these days.
I have one 6P purchased from Oveready around 2010. It’s bored to 18,6 mm, but the fit is too tight for some of the new batteries. The battery in the picture I have to press in. So if I bore a new one 18,7 mm should be perfect. I will measure the weakest point and see material thickness. Of course you can always do mistakes and ruin the body during machining. Rattle isn’t a problem because I only use 18650 in this light. CR123 is not common in Europe and very expensive. If I’m away from home a long time I stick to AA lights. AA you can find In every store. But for rechargeable batteries I like one 18650.
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If high capacity 26650 cells needed, 26650 C head will work with original head and any D26 drop in for long long run time.
The groove diameter for o-ring is 19,7 mm and the inner diameter is 18,6 mm. So if you bore the body to accommodate 18650 batteries the thinnest material thickness is 0,55 mm. The new 18650 batteries are really tight so inner diameter 18,7 mm should be better.
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When measuring inner or outer of flashlight with caliper, remove your thumb then read.
BTW, custom made flashlights can be machined with less material removed for grooves and use undersize Orings and leave more material under groove while you can not add material on genuine $urefire bodies.
Also, when boring original host you may slightly be off center and remove one side more than other side but when machining the aftermarket body, this will not happened.
letschat7
Flashlight Enthusiast
Nice tail cap.
I think it’s a Surefire Z59 tail cap
that is the perfect example why I hate the hex cap,
and simply dont understand what was the thinking behind switching to them.
An old round head light can slip out of your hand and land on concrete, on the rim, and will not be bent (at least almost not)
while that flimsy crap can be bent already when one is unlucky and has the light + a few hard other things, loose in a backpack
(that really happened to someone I recommended a 6 P as being "so robust")
in short: if You have a hex head, ALWAYS install a protection bezel ring
www.oveready.com
(they also once had other colors, metals + cheaper delrin ones in black and white ...)
PS: I guess when getting the original bezel ring out + tapping while unscewing with a light hammer (+ when installing the full bezel ring), that head can get near round again ...
PPS: it helps greatly to improve the thermal path, if You warp copper/aluminium tape at the base of the insert. Really tight, so that it just barely fits in.
PS: and sometimes the batteries have a label sticker, or a double layer of shrink warp (a labeled + a transparent outer one),
removing the outside often makes the difference when a battery does not fit
and simply dont understand what was the thinking behind switching to them.
An old round head light can slip out of your hand and land on concrete, on the rim, and will not be bent (at least almost not)
while that flimsy crap can be bent already when one is unlucky and has the light + a few hard other things, loose in a backpack
(that really happened to someone I recommended a 6 P as being "so robust")
in short: if You have a hex head, ALWAYS install a protection bezel ring
Bezel Ring for OVEREADY LEGO - Smooth Stainless Steel - OVEREADY
Purchase separately here or choose installed on any LEGO bezel, host or P60 flashlight
www.oveready.com
PS: I guess when getting the original bezel ring out + tapping while unscewing with a light hammer (+ when installing the full bezel ring), that head can get near round again ...
PPS: it helps greatly to improve the thermal path, if You warp copper/aluminium tape at the base of the insert. Really tight, so that it just barely fits in.
PS: and sometimes the batteries have a label sticker, or a double layer of shrink warp (a labeled + a transparent outer one),
removing the outside often makes the difference when a battery does not fit
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