Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Superdave

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Nice!

i made my own, used a Cree 15 degree 5mm and a 1K resistor with a old dead P60. Works like a champ. :party:
 

M@elstrom

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Search said:
I will tomorrow. I've got an interview at 6:45 am and need to be sleeping.

Basically, the directions said that when you bust the bulb, grab the base of the bulb to pull it out.

With the R60 module, the base of the bulb is too far past the bottom of the reflector to grab it with needle nose pliers.


Ah... okay, might be more cost effective to get generic P60 style modules and 'hack' them, IIRC KD's got some for $3.73 USD (shipped)

BTW good luck with that interview! :thumbsup:


Superdave said:
i made my own, used a Cree 15 degree 5mm and a 1K resistor with a old dead P60. Works like a champ.

Sounds nice... beamshots? :popcorn:
 
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Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I've got the job. Interview is to make it official. So I just have to wake up early :(

I broke the bulb and turn the module upside down (facing table) and put an allen wrench down against the back of the bulb. Then I just took a pair of pliers and hammered down until the bulb popped out the front.

It's possible.

Now I've just got to figure out this negative and positive business.
 

angelofwar

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I've got the job. Interview is to make it official. So I just have to wake up early :(

I broke the bulb and turn the module upside down (facing table) and put an allen wrench down against the back of the bulb. Then I just took a pair of pliers and hammered down until the bulb popped out the front.

It's possible.

Now I've just got to figure out this negative and positive business.

Nice sig..."The only 4 that still work...and wait...what's this...they're all surefire's!!!"...Sorry, couldn't resist :devil:.

As far as Pos and Neg, I bought some alligator clips, and hooked them up to some spare wire I had laying around, and used those to test for which lead was positive and which was negitive...but, the positive terminal SHOULD be the longer lead.

Still no UV LEDs at the shack though...I did manage to solder my Red LED into place on my P60 thoguh, making it a little more durable.

Keep 'em coming...good luck with the job search...no more ordnance???
 

csshih

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I soldered the legs of a bright emerald green LED that I got in a trade to the filament posts and it worked. I did not want to remove the threaded part off of the base so I got it as close as I could and sanded the crap out of it. The thing puts out total green flood and I quite like it.
I even tossed a spare trit under the led for kicks and it makes the whole reflector glowy.
Anyone ever seen diffused 5mm LED's? The plastic is milky and they give perfect flood, even better results than sanding. I have a couple of white ones and I would love to buy more in different colors. Especially orange, red and warm white. :eek:oo:
sounds familiar ;)
wow, trits! those leds have never come close to one of those at all!
all the LEDs in the pinkish antistatic bags are nichias! to save space, I tossed some together , but the stickers tell you what part number.. I labeled the colors/diffused.

I believe you can buy them directly from nichia. I have a contact number in cali, if you need/want it.

ps: my side of the trade should be arriving tmrw!!! I'm excited!

On another note, I notice that those cheap keychain lights that use the 5mm leds are using 2 3v coin cell batteries. Couldn't you use 2 CR123s with this and enjoy the ridiculously long runtime? Are there any 5mm LEDs that use around 6V?

I don't think the keychain light LEDs will let you use 2xCR123A.. the voltage on the coin cells drop dramatically under load.. and then they dont provide much current... wheras, on a 123A.... they dont drop much under low loads... :poof:
 
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Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Nice sig..."The only 4 that still work...and wait...what's this...they're all surefire's!!!"...Sorry, couldn't resist :devil:.

As far as Pos and Neg, I bought some alligator clips, and hooked them up to some spare wire I had laying around, and used those to test for which lead was positive and which was negitive...but, the positive terminal SHOULD be the longer lead.

Still no UV LEDs at the shack though...I did manage to solder my Red LED into place on my P60 thoguh, making it a little more durable.

Keep 'em coming...good luck with the job search...no more ordnance???

LoL I'm just waiting for the hate mail.

Does the pos attach to the big or small spring? Obviously the neg would be the opposite.

That's all my modules (I've got one working on I'm going to keep) and I'm waiting for the two 5mms to come in from China. I'm going to wait until the guys at the PD blow a few bulbs and I'll just collect a couple more. I want a UV to charge up my GITD some times.
 

Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Got the job! I now work almost all day. 4 hours between off work to time to go to bed. At least it's 44 hours working 4 days a week :)

With the negative lead being the long one, that would mean the long or negative lead would be soldered onto the larger spring. With the shorter and positive lead being soldered to the small spring.

I'm guessing this because the battery touches the small spring and the large spring touches the body. Right?
 

Superdave

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

How'd ya get a resistor in there? And where'd you get the LED?


I cut the lead of the LED off pretty short and the same with the resistor and lap-soldered them together. It fit pretty much perfect.

The LED's came from digi-key: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=C503B-WAN-CCACB151-ND

Those are the same ones i put in my A2, at the right drive current they are fairly bright.


M@elstrom; Maybe, i still need to swap out the resistor to get a little more out of it. I measured 1 lumen in my sphere today at work on 2 fresh cr123's. :naughty:
 

M@elstrom

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Search said:
With the negative lead being the long one, that would mean the long or negative lead would be soldered onto the larger spring. With the shorter and positive lead being soldered to the small spring.

I'm guessing this because the battery touches the small spring and the large spring touches the body. Right?


The +ve anode/leg needs to contact to the top button of the cell :thumbsup:

633071157355631250.jpg



Superdave said:
M@elstrom; Maybe, i still need to swap out the resistor to get a little more out of it. I measured 1 lumen in my sphere today at work on 2 fresh cr123's. :naughty:

Perhaps how high a value did you use? how much voltage is reaching the LED? :thinking:
 
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Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

The +ve anode/leg needs to contact to the top button of the cell :thumbsup:

Thanks! Without knowing what most of what you just said means, I do think the thumbs up meant I was right? lol
 

R@ndom

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

The socket that Koala is using will be great.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/199366

It means also that you can use the LED's with 2 CR123a's since you can replace the LEDs as fast as they wear out at a cost far lower than P60s. Exploding cells might be a issue though.
 

Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I did a 16000 mcd White and an 8000 mcd Green and I want to throw it out there that neither are bright enough to do most things.

There are a good bit of useful tasks one can do with these, but for me they will never be done with this light.

Until me and my fiance move in together, I don't think I'll even use it because it's easier to use the low mode on my E1B.

At the right I've used it, I'll have over 100 dead batteries for it before I use the first one I put in.

Hopefully something changes and I find more uses for it :(
 

Kestrel

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I did a 16000 mcd White and an 8000 mcd Green and I want to throw it out there that neither are bright enough to do most things.

There are a good bit of useful tasks one can do with these, but for me they will never be done with this light.
Until me and my fiance move in together, I don't think I'll even use it because it's easier to use the low mode on my E1B.
At the right I've used it, I'll have over 100 dead batteries for it before I use the first one I put in.
Hopefully something changes and I find more uses for it :(
Sorry to hear that, different folks do have different preferences for an ultra-low level. Out of curiosity, what 'normal' lights do you like for low-level work? (For example, I usually found the low on my LD01 and my SF L1 (Cree) to be too high, and preferred the ~1 lumen low of my SF L1 (Luxeon).) I would definitely understand if you found a ~10 lumen low to work best for you, for example.
 
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Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Sorry to hear that, different folks do have different preferences for an ultra-low level. Out of curiosity, what 'normal' lights do you like for low-level work? (For example, I usually found the low on my LD01 and my SF L1 (Cree) to be too high, and preferred the ~1 lumen low of my SF L1 (Luxeon).) I would definitely understand if you found a ~10 lumen low to work best for you, for example.

I realized what I had been doing wrong.

I had been using two batteries in my TK10 (before I traded). Once the voltage was too low to use high mode, I had been using them in low mode for a few days.

Well, I popped a battery out of my E2DL and threw it in the G2 and it was considerably brighter. I just had to use one with a higher voltage.

Another way was that I might have been using a dead battery from my E1B, which would have also been too low to use in the G2 or battery vampire.

So I just have to wait for a higher voltage, dead battery :)

BTW, I consider the rated 5 lumens of the E1B to be pretty good.

Although I have ran into one or two situations where lower would have been better.

When we have this baby and move out though I'm sure I'll have plenty of reasons to not wake anyone up hehe.
 

angelofwar

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Yeah, it's definitely limited in it's use's, but then again, that's what it was intended for...I think it'll be more suited for people who spend alot of there time in VERY dark places...where that little bit of light is actually alot. Thanks for the feedback guys!
 
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Search

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I lied.

This is one of the best decisions I've ever made.

I've used it extensively throughout the night. Once I centered the bulb and re-did the wires it seems a little brighter now. Either way, I'm glad I did this now.

utf-8BSU1HMDAwMDItMjAwOTA4MjUtMD-1.jpg
 
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Kestrel

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

I lied.
This is one of the best decisions I've ever made.
I've used it extensively throughout the night. Once I centered the bulb and re-did the wires it seems a little brighter now. Either way, I'm glad I did this now.
:party: Cool. I just got my L2mini & a shot SF lamp assembly. Now I just need a 5mm LED...
 

M@elstrom

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Re: *Beamshots-Post #36*Build yer own "Battery Vampire" with a P60

Sorry guys I went the other route, I got offered an MTE mini (CR123a) light for the cost of postage (thanks eric242 :thumbsup:) that had some issues and decided to gut that for my 8,000mcd Super-bright blue LED, what makes this a great little host is the 2 stage tail cap switch which I retrofitted with a 150 Ohm resistor giving me another lower low :D

Running a depleted CR123a @ 2.92v (no load) high is juiced @ 2.83v, low sips @ 2.65v which is pretty good considering this LED supposedly has a Vf range of 3.1~3.5v ;)


Here is the Blue LED MTE on low-low beside the Jet-III M @ 2Lm, one thing I did notice was the LED emiter had a broader beam profile especially compared to the Jet-III M's deep reflectored throw and subsequent hotspot ;)

img0633.jpg



Now the compulsory white wall shot with the MTE on low-low (Jet-III M still @ 2Lm) followed by the MTE on high.

img0636f.jpg


img0638d.jpg



I'm pretty happy with the results now I have a sub 2Lm flashlight/torch to knock around with, I may just go for a 2K Ohm in the tailcap and see how low I can get the emitter, anyway here's the last bit of eye candy! :D

img0648n.jpg



Now I really should get stuck into the Angelhead restoration project eh? :p
 
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