Calling on the Clan of the Clicky

[wacbzz]

The exact same way a host of lights by any number of top of the line companies can tell. I have to do no "reset" on any of my Malkoffs, on any of my Surefires, nor on a simple Energizer light that my daughter uses when switching from rechargeable's to primary's . If it involves having a preset lumen level, then I'm okay with that as well. The clicky is a simple tool. It should remain that way.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

The exact same way a host of lights by any number of top of the line companies can tell. I have to do no "reset" on any of my Malkoffs, on any of my Surefires, nor on a simple Energizer light that my daughter uses when switching from rechargeable's to primary's . If it involves having a preset lumen level, then I'm okay with that as well. The clicky is a simple tool. It should remain that way.

And what happens when you run a rechargeable cell without a protection circuit in one these lights?

The HDS is designed to get the most out of a primary, but not kill a rechargeable without a protection circuit. While you can use both types of batteries in other lights does not mean that the light can tell the difference and shut it down before killing the rechargeable.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

The consensus here seems to be don't change or improve anything if it works already.
If you guys would like, I can go outside and find a stick we can wrap in some rags and dip it in flammable liquid and there's your light. No need to buy flashlights or batteries or chargers. No need to program or deal with any kind of user interface...
I'm still confused how counting clicks is faster or easier or more convenient, or why I want to go through medium to get to low if it wrecks your dark adapted vision.
Click to turn on in medium, followed by 3 clicks to access low. How is that easier or better for dark adapted vision than soft press and hold to go straight into low from off?
I'll wait for someone to explain that.
PS This is a thread about suggestions for improvements. Everyone is saying leave it the same. Shake head.

 

[wacbzz]

And what happens when you run a rechargeable cell without a protection circuit in one these lights?

Nothing has ever happened as of yet; I use protected cells - even in my HDS lights. Just like "two is one and one is none," for me and mine, being overprotected when it comes to lithium batteries is far better than relying on the "built-in" protection of any light. I've had my share of HDS errors with the programming, including one "fatal" error (Henry's words) that required the light to be sent back in.

The HDS is designed to get the most out of a primary, but not kill a rechargeable without a protection circuit. While you can use both types of batteries in other lights does not mean that the light can tell the difference and shut it down before killing the rechargeable.

See the above.

Not sure why there is pushback against this most basic of ideas that has no such requirement in any of the brands I listed in my previous post? :shrug: You asked for ways to "improve" the light and I've mentioned but a single thing that doesn't seem to be difficult with any other manufacturer...

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

Because the need for a protected cell leaves less space for the actual battery chemistry, and represents a potential point of failure.

 

[wacbzz]

Because the need for a protected cell leaves less space for the actual battery chemistry, and represents a potential point of failure.

No problems with the protected cells I'm using every day in my HDS lights...

 

[Random Dan]

Nothing has ever happened as of yet; I use protected cells - even in my HDS lights. Just like "two is one and one is none," for me and mine, being overprotected when it comes to lithium batteries is far better than relying on the "built-in" protection of any light. I've had my share of HDS errors with the programming, including one "fatal" error (Henry's words) that required the light to be sent back in.

So why then do you want to get rid of the built in over discharge protection, an extra layer of safety?

Not sure why there is pushback against this most basic of ideas that has no such requirement in any of the brands I listed in my previous post? :shrug: You asked for ways to "improve" the light and I've mentioned but a single thing that doesn't seem to be difficult with any other manufacturer...

But you don't seem to acknowledge that none of those other brands offer over discharge protection like the HDS. Your idea of improvement is getting rid of an important safety feature that many of us value, hence pushback.

 

[peter yetman]

In before the close.
P

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

No problems yet. I'll take the opposite stand now.
I would LOVE the ability to program what voltage the light actually cuts off or reduces output at. I don't like deep discharging my cells, and I would prefer to reduce output at say 3.2 volts rather than 3.0 volts as an example. This leads to longer cell life and greater cycle life.

 

[wacbzz]

So why then do you want to get rid of the built in over discharge protection, an extra layer of safety?

But you don't seem to acknowledge that none of those other brands offer over discharge protection like the HDS. Your idea of improvement is getting rid of an important safety feature that many of us value, hence pushback.

As I stated in an earlier post, I've had a fatal HDS failure with the driver of the light. I've yet to have a battery failure concerning discharge protection. I trust an HDS light as much as I trust any of the other brands I listed - no more, no less.

Let's be crystal clear and honest about what I wrote...my idea of improvement is for the light to be able to distinguish between rechargeable and primary no matter the order the battery insertion. I mentioned nowhere that the clicky needs to lose its over discharge protection.

Some of you guys are too funny...

 

[Random Dan]

No problems yet. I'll take the opposite stand now.
I would LOVE the ability to program what voltage the light actually cuts off or reduces output at. I don't like deep discharging my cells, and I would prefer to reduce output at say 3.2 volts rather than 3.0 volts as an example. This leads to longer cell life and greater cycle life.

I'd be down for that as an advanced setting

 

[Random Dan]

As I stated in an earlier post, I've had a fatal HDS failure with the driver of the light. I've yet to have a battery failure concerning discharge protection. I trust an HDS light as much as I trust any of the other brands I listed - no more, no less.

Let's be crystal clear and honest about what I wrote...my idea of improvement is for the light to be able to distinguish between rechargeable and primary no matter the order the battery insertion. I mentioned nowhere that the clicky needs to lose its over discharge protection.

Some of you guys are too funny...

Yeah, but how is that possible? I only know of two lights that have over discharge protection and support cr123: HDS and Oveready BOSS. The BOSS needs to be reprogrammed to switch though.

 

[wacbzz]

Yeah, but how is that possible? I only know of two lights that have over discharge protection and support cr123: HDS and Oveready BOSS. The BOSS needs to be reprogrammed to switch though.

I didn't say it was possible; I'm certainly not a flashlight driver programmer. This thread was started to ask for improvements to an almost perfect light. I gave my idea and you guys just ran with it, saying I wrote things that I didn't and that I'm trying to do something to the light that I don't want done.

Geeze...

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

What I am saying is the other lights DO NOT distinguish between rechargeable and primary batteries any more than a 357 pistol distinguishes between .38 Special and .357. You can use both, the tool doesn't distinguish between the two. Now, if Smith & Wesson made a model 686 that automatically adjust the front sight for which ammo was put in the gun...

Let's see what it takes for an HDS to tell the difference. Turn the light on (just a push of the button), now unscrew the battery compartment and put in the new primary or charged IMR, ICR, INR and screw the battery compartment back on. Done.

If turning the light on before changing the battery is too complicated, one can sit and wait for 60 seconds. I personally, being an impatient sort of fellow, simply prefer to turn the light on first so I don't have to wait.

 

[Random Dan]

I didn't say it was possible; I'm certainly not a flashlight driver programmer. This thread was started to ask for improvements to an almost perfect light. I gave my idea and you guys just ran with it, saying I wrote things that I didn't and that I'm trying to do something to the light that I don't want done.

Geeze...

I guess I misinterpreted your post comparing to Malkoff and other brands as suggesting that HDS should work like they do, i.e. without over discharge protection.

It would be nice to not need the reset but I just don't see how it would work.

 

[slumber]

I don't even consider the battery check thing an actual "reset". It takes lees than 10 seconds.

 

[wacbzz]

I guess I misinterpreted your post comparing to Malkoff and other brands as suggesting that HDS should work like they do, i.e. without over discharge protection.

It would be nice to not need the reset but I just don't see how it would work.

No worries. I feel like the clicky is an almost perfect light. Regardless of the "time" or "difficulty" associated with doing a reset, it's still annoying. That switch would make it that much better of a light IMO, but it doesn't make the clicky any less of a light. Much like the earlier poster, I'd take the clicky as a single level on/off light; it's that good.

I did did get a big chuckle out of the silly "In before the close" post though. :laughing:

 

[paddyie]

-pseudo momentary to a selectable preset even from lockout, maybe with a max runtime?
-black metal clicky
-lower low
-a fifth preset when holding the button while the HDS is on


​

 

[usdiver]

I quite like the ramping up and down and a few other ideas. Why not add a couple external contacts and add a program that automatically turns on a beacon strobe if you fall out of the boat... 7 seconds in the water and the beacon activates [emoji16]now THAT sounds like a challenge

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Lower low brings up an interesting topic. How low is low enough? All flashlights go to the same lowest of low level... off. If .02 isn't low enough, then what is? Henry and I were also talking about this the other day. What is low enough to still be useful?