Reducing swelling of tailswitch buttons

jon_slider

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Notes about bulging tailbuttons, that interfere with tailstanding..
from the FAQ

"The air-tight seal on the battery compartment can cause the flush button to bulge out when the air pressure inside the flashlight is higher than the outside air pressure. Changes in elevation, weather and temperature can affect the relative air pressure within the flashlight.

equalizing the air pressure inside the flashlight.

with the light Off, loosen the head until you can see the O-ring.
The entire O-ring should be visible.

Press and hold the button down while screwing the head tight. You can release the button once the O-ring has been completely covered

The switch will probably activate while you are screwing down the switch cap - this is normal."


Pressure Relief Strategy Suggestion:

If this air pressure release is done on a Hot Day (or after placing the opened light in the Hot Sun), and or, at High Altitude, the button might experience some additional beneficial negative air pressure on Colder days and at Lower altitude.
 
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jon_slider

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they aren't supposed to swell up?
they did not used to, I hsve a Novatac with a totally flat button, like the Rotary on the left:

Mr LED said:
"I am having the same problem on two rotaries"
IMG_3051.jpeg

I think the new buttons use a softer rubber.
 

iacchus

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they did not used to, I hsve a Novatac with a totally flat button, like the Rotary on the left:

Mr LED said:
"I am having the same problem on two rotaries"
View attachment 57320
I think the new buttons use a softer rubber.
Both my executive Clickys did this. The 170lumen Ra and the 100 lumen high CRI produced in late 2009 and 2010 respectively. A 16650 tube from the same time did it too. They did it within weeks of receiving them.

So far, my rotary has not. It's recent production
 

jon_slider

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So far, my rotary has not. It's recent production
After I got my HDS Rotary 140 (w ACME threads) back from Henry just a few months ago, whose button had swollen to a point that made tailstanding wobbly, the button no longer interferes w tailstanding.

However, I could see it bulging slightly. So this morning I unscrewed the head past the O ring and placed the light on top of a gas wall heater for 30 seconds. I only made the light slightly warm, and then reclosed it while holding the button down.

Now that the light has cooled down, the bulge is smaller, as the cooler air inside has lower pressure than ambient.
 

iacchus

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If got a little diffuser Surefire made. Whenever I need to tailstand one, that comes in clutch.
I don't often tailstand them though, it's never really bothered me. It swelled to a wobbly point and then stopped, so I just sorta live with it that way.
 

jon_slider

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I just sorta live with it that way.
Although tailstanding is not an officially promised feature, I value the option.

I tailstand my Rotary a couple of times a day, some days more. I like to ceiling bounce the beam, instead of laying the light on its side. I do it before bed, and also when I go to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

I could find the bathroom without a flashlight, but my cat is getting old and incontinent. Sometimes he has accidents that I want to avoid.
 

iacchus

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I can certainly understand that.
I've taken to using a Boss light as a bedside light, due to the handy red low aux. It helps to not wake the wife. Or the dogs, who if they see any white light whatsoever assume they get to go outside.
 

Mr. LED

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Both my executive Clickys did this. The 170lumen Ra and the 100 lumen high CRI produced in late 2009 and 2010 respectively. A 16650 tube from the same time did it too. They did it within weeks of receiving them.

So far, my rotary has not. It's recent production
It seems like lottery, I have a 2010 orange clicky which still has a flat boot, and a couple 18350 new bodies with swollen boots.
 
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