Calling on the Clan of the Clicky

[archimedes]

I don't really have much need for lower lows, and use moonlight modes more often than firefly modes, but would be interested to hear thoughts from the ultra-low enthusiasts like @reppans

How low did the "collectors version low" go ?

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

I don't really have much need for lower lows, and use moonlight modes more often than firefly modes, but would be interested to hear thoughts from the ultra-low enthusiasts like @reppans

How low did the "collectors version low" go ?

To be honest, I don't actually know as I didn't put it on the sphere. Henry knew right away from the behavior of the light it was going under .02 lumens.

 

[archimedes]

I have been testing out a ZL SC53w recently with its lowest low rated at 0.013 lumen. No idea how accurate that rating is and no way to test that precisely.

For practical purposes, that is nearly as low as I would expect to reasonably need. Could I use an output of half that, ~ 0.005 - 0.006 lumen ? Maybe, but it would be pretty limited for me.

I would probably use outputs from 0.5 - 5.0 lumens more than ten-fold as often though ....

 

[id30209]

Lower low....hmm...time for a NVG to kick in. Torches should shine, not oposite IMHO.


Sent from Tapatalk

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

I do use the .02, but not much. Old eyes need more light. I'm just curious if anything lower is actually useful to anyone... I mean actually using it to see something... not as an electric tritium vial.

See, I can't even keep my own threads on topic! LOL!

 

[Modernflame]

A momentary Max without having to make Max your preset would be nice...

I've read this a few times, but I finally understand. (Sorry, I'm the slow kid.) With the current software, you get maximum output if you hold the button down when the light is on. This happens because a press-hold takes you temporarily to A, and maximum is normally on the A preset. You're suggesting that we uncouple the press-hold from the A preset, so that we get maximum output regardless of what is on the A setting. This would provide access to maximum without "wasting" one of the presets. That is cool. Good idea.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

The use case scenario I came across that I found seemed to require the lowest brightness I've ever wanted was using my light to look up into my baby's nose to check and see if we "got it all". In that case, I found I wanted it super super low because she won't sit still, and I'm paranoid about accidentally shining the light in her eyes. Since I'm looking up her nose, light in the eyes is almost unavoidable. So I tested on myself and found lights need to go extremely low before they don't hurt your eyes.
Having said that, I also feel that if this light was being used by say a first responder or EMT to check for pupil dialation, it makes sense to go very very low.
But in the case of checking for pupil dialation, the light isn't actually being used to see something, the light is being used to check if pupils constrict in reaction to the light...

 

[indigon]

Momentary max from off..
Click on [< 1/3 sec] = normal preset on
? Maybe press-hold [> 1/3 sec] = momentary max, or [PHR] just max.

 

[slumber]

I've read this a few times, but I finally understand. (Sorry, I'm the slow kid.) With the current software, you get maximum output if you hold the button down when the light is on. This happens because a press-hold takes you temporarily to A, and maximum is normally on the A preset. You're suggesting that we uncouple the press-hold from the A preset, so that we get maximum output regardless of what is on the A setting. This would provide access to maximum without "wasting" one of the presets. That is cool. Good idea.

That's actually different, but interesting still. Im trying to get Max from OFF.
I use the 3 click lockout quite a bit. I know many don't, but I do and I just wanted to make the light useful when locked out. None of my Clickies are preset to come on straight to Max on the first click from off. This would allow momentary Max from OFF.
If you need fool proof lockout, you can still unscrew the battery tube.
If you need fool proof Momentary, you can still turn on and activate the 6 Click Momentary option.
If you never use the 3 click lockout, nothing changes.

 

[Modernflame]

My only struggle with the clicky is that sometimes I want the fast strobe. I use it when walking near traffic after dark. Programming the strobe to the preset on a clicky means sacrificing a preferred output level. The alternative is programming on the fly, which can be impractical if you're standing on a street corner waiting to cross. I wish there were a way to take the strobe out of hiding without entering the menus, but I really don't want the strobe on any of my four presets.

That's actually different, but interesting still. Im trying to get Max from OFF.

Now I see. Could be quite a shock, though, if it's really dark and you forget you're locked out. Perhaps this would be a feature for users more graceful than I.

 

[slumber]

Could be quite a shock, though, if it's really dark and you forget you're locked out. Perhaps this would be a feature for users more graceful than I.

Currently if you forget, you get 3 quick flashes of what looks like Max anyway. If you forget you're locked out, more than likely you're going to click and release, so presumably you'd get one flash of Max with my suggestion.

 

[Modernflame]

Without wishing to rekindle any debate, I'd like to say that the switch is perfect. Some things work. Other things work so well that they are a pleasure to use. For me, it's not just about the function of the switch, but the feel. It reminds me of the crisp action of a well maintained pocket knife. I like the switch so much that I run some with flush buttons and others with raised, only to bring out the subtle differences. Granted, I'm a nerd with a flashlight problem, but I'd be disappointed if the switch were significantly redesigned.

 

[Not So Bright]

Please make them in natural HA.

 

[GoVegan]

Same as the 4 or 5 above that think the UI is perfect as is, I would like to see zero changes.
As my non tactical light, the default medium 9 lumens is perfect for most tasks, a simple double click to make it a bit brighter, and I also love the 0.3 lumens which is perfect in the middle of the night (no more, no less), I also don't find I blind myself either as I just shield the lens when turning on, before triple clicking to get to low.
Can't say I'd ever want to use any ramping, too slow, too fiddly, and too complicated.

Only thing I'd ever like to see are:

Better efficiency.
1.2V capable driver (for 1 AA battery body).
Higher maximum (which will come in time with better LEDs).
User replaceable switch.

 

[GoVegan]

Actually, one practical change that might make sense for the EDC Executive is to change to an OP reflector as standard (along with the Rotary model).
Then keep the smooth reflector on the EDC LE and EDC Tactical, similar to the way the older Clicky Tactical models used the Golden Dragon emitter for longer throw.

FWIW I'd personally maybe prefer to stick with the smooth reflectors on both, but I'm sure Henry and yourself know what is best for practical usage.

 

[paddyie]

+1 for the OP reflector

 

[nmiller]

1+ 1.2V capable driver (for 1 AA battery body).

More battery options the better.

To me the switch change would eliminate many users. This is irrational, but the rotary is too much for me. A dual stage option with more programming options in an executive would probabky do me in and Id be back to carrying an elzetta Alpha. The switch in my opinion is perfect. I have 4 HDS lights. One is programmed for dog walking. Two are programmed for tactical use. And one is programmed for general edc use. Each light is setup for me to be able to get the level of light I need 99% of the time for the task at at hand. The extra levels are a bonus. Id rather buy more lights than have one that will do more.

Ok, back on track. More battery options please!

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

To me the switch change would eliminate many users. A dual stage option with more programming options in an executive would probabky do me in and Id be back to carrying an elzetta Alpha. Id rather buy more lights than have one that will do more.

Nobody is even talking about the switch anymore...
Perhaps a user replaceable switch could allow those users who simply cannot understand that a dual stage switch can easily function the same way as a single stage switch to physically swap it out so that they don't feel overwhelmed.
It's not hard to understand in my opinion, but it seems some can't comprehend it. If the dual stage function is disabled, the driver will interpret soft or hard presses in the same way.

 

[reppans]

I don't really have much need for lower lows, and use moonlight modes more often than firefly modes, but would be interested to hear thoughts from the ultra-low enthusiasts like @reppans

I'm with you Arch... I actually prefer the 'brighter' moonlights in the 0.3-0.5lm range which are suitable as my general purpose low and that I use for most of my close task work in the pitch black with partially dark adapted eyes. This is a comfortable arm's length book reading output for me, not too bright with the bounce back glare, and not too dim to cause eye strain making out the words. It's painfully bright when woken from sleep, but for the two mins it takes for the middle of the night pee, I'd rather either just bounce the light off the floor/wall, or bury the bezel in my fist and using my pinky as an aperture control, rather than waste a mode slot on a lower mode. I've given up trying new lights.... too many disappointments with lights claiming 0.3-0.5 lumens and then delivering 0.10 or less fireflies. FWIW... below the 1lm mark, lights lose efficiency (in terms of lumen-hours) increasingly faster - as it gets dimmer, the driver becomes a greater drain than the LED. (PS, I don't seem to get notification of your tags... this one oddly came through tapatalk).

We should see crazy long low level runtimes return along with a stupid long locator flash. Spoke with Henry about this today.

Is this a hardware thing, or will it be available as a software upgrade? I like my 325 clicky, as I can dial in just the right low lows (0.4 and 3lms), and the toggle switching between them, which represents 90% of my light useage. But my HDS see a lot of shelf time due to the inefficiency at my preferred low lows - my usual EDC consumes about ~1/3 the ma at 0.4lms, and I'm guessing ~1/2 the ma at 3lms. Efficiency is the other half of why I love low lows.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Is this a hardware thing,

Yes. This is hardware.