Connection (??) problem with FM Megalennium

[nfetterly]

Looking for some help - no one else has seem to had any problem but I cannot get mine to work.

The batteries (3 x 18650 AW) are at 4.1 v - oriented to markings
The bulb is a stock surefire bulb - works with M6 body
The AW switch works on a "C" body.

The only thing that seems strange is that when I put the switch in it is a little loose - see photos below where I have put it in the "in" and "out" position - the locking ring won't go down anymore without the switch there.

Suggestions?

 

[senna94]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

Looking for some help - no one else has seem to had any problem but I cannot get mine to work.

The batteries (3 x 18650 AW) are at 4.1 v - oriented to markings
The bulb is a stock surefire bulb - works with M6 body
The AW switch works on a "C" body.

The only thing that seems strange is that when I put the switch in it is a little loose - see photos below where I have put it in the "in" and "out" position - the locking ring won't go down anymore without the switch there.

Suggestions?

I had a problem with mine not working initially. For me the problem was that the AW 18650 cells I was using were the older style without the raised positive terminal. On mine they were flat and thus were not making good contact. Tiny pieces of aluminum foil balled up will verify this as the problem. I would not use this method for anything other than testing to verify this is the problem. The permanent fix for me was to purchase some new AW cells that have the raised + terminal. I hope this helps.

 

[DM51]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

I cannot get mine to work... The bulb is a stock surefire bulb - works with M6 body

Which bulb are you using? Unless it is an MN60 or MN61, you've simply blown the bulb with too much voltage. Even either of those could have blown straight away if you were unlucky.

 

[nfetterly]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

The bulb is an M20 or M21 - but I did run it over on the M6 body after I did not get it to work.

The cells are ~4 to 5 months old.

I guess the next step is to take my one WA1185 and put it in my FM bi-pin holder - and check my cells (I have IMRs as well).

 

[DM51]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

Well in a way, you were lucky! You've got an open circuit somewhere, or that MN20/21 would have blown immediately, so you've saved yourself ~$30.

Maybe the switch is loose somewhow, or quite likely as Senna94 suggests, the flat-top cells aren't making proper contact.

 

[nfetterly]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

Well in a way, you were lucky! You've got an open circuit somewhere, or that MN20/21 would have blown immediately, so you've saved yourself ~$30.

Maybe the switch is loose somewhow, or quite likely as Senna94 suggests, the flat-top cells aren't making proper contact.

No luck. Cells aren't flat top (IMRs didn't work either). WA1185 in bi-pin holder didn't work either with Megalennium - works with M6 body.

Anyone have a link to troubleshooting basics (search is my friend... found it).


From suggestions below - threads on body all anodized except last one and no ano at the top. I tried some foil in the end of the cap (no luck). Cannot tighten any more. Need to search on removing ano (oven cleaner?)

Don't understand the suggestion with solder (which I don't have right now). Retaining ring is tight, but switch has some play with how much it can move - are you suggesting soldering switch to ring?

 

[jslappa]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

With my Megalomanialennium, I have to have the tail COMPLETELY tight. Not even 1/16th of a turn and my light doesn't work. Based on your pics, there seems to be enough bare metal showing, so maybe the ano wasn't removed enough from the tail thread of the body. All my body tail threads are anodized, but there's no ano at the top. Maybe a little ano needs to be removed from the top 1 or 2 threads.

Good luck

 

[Cheesy]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

If you have some solder, try putting a ring round the stepped area of the switch so the retaining ring screws down tight. In lieu of solder you could also try some foil.

I'm not convinced this is where the problem lies as the cells should push the switch into the tailcap but it's worth a go.


Kev.

 

[nfetterly]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

No luck. Cells aren't flat top (IMRs didn't work either). WA1185 in bi-pin holder didn't work either with Megalennium - works with M6 body.

Anyone have a link to troubleshooting basics (search is my friend... found it).


From suggestions below - threads on body all anodized except last one and no ano at the top. I tried some foil in the end of the cap (no luck). Cannot tighten any more. Need to search on removing ano (oven cleaner?)

Don't understand the suggestion with solder (which I don't have right now). Retaining ring is tight, but switch has some play with how much it can move - are you suggesting soldering switch to ring?

Took off tailcap and used a circuit tester (2 leads w/light) to connect center of battery connection & end of body with no threads. No light / connection.

So I looked up at the head connection - M6 has no ano on threads, Megelannium has ano on threads.... is this the problem?

The head with WA1185 still works on the M6 body.

 

[Cheesy]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

M6 has no ano on threads, Megelannium has ano on threads.... is this the problem?

No, the circuit is through the lamp ***'y inner and outer springs, no current flows in the head.

EDIT: Stupid question but you do have the front connection board fitted? Third pic down.

It is possible to use a bulb ***'y without the head if you are careful, you need to use something like long nose pliers to push it down into the body enough to make contact with the brass spike on the battery plate (+ve) and the bare Al ring on the body (-ve).


Kev.

 

[niner]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

I just received the new Megalennium w/ the clicky switch. I have the same problem, can't get it to work. I swap with my other Megalennium holder to test things out. Seems like the problem is in the head contact piece. The contact is recess just a little bit too much into the white plastic, or the brass bar is too short..

 

[DM51]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

I've separated the above posts from FM's sale thread.

 

[nfetterly]

Thanks for breaking it out.

Front board is fitted.

From my testing the problem is in the head connection which kind of puzzles me - I think I'll have to look into making the connection without the head piece as suggested above. But I need to push the switch too.....

 

[niner]

In my case, if I try to measure voltage like this pciture, I got nothing.

The problem seems to be at the brass bar that connects P to N (right hand side of the picture below). N is not making contact to the neg side of the battery.

I put a UltraFire (in stead of AW's) battery there, and it makes contact with the brass bar without problem. The UF battery uses slightly thinner shrink warp plastic. AW on th left, and UF on the right.

I don't have any problem with AW batteries in my other two "older" Megalennium's.

 

[nfetterly]

That was one thing I wondered about in the back of my mind - when I looked in it didn't appear like there was much of a high spot for the negative end to connect to.

So I gave it a try - with only very light pressure there was no connection - pushing down harder I got 4.1 V.

So I though this cannot be it - so I put all the batteries back in, put it on it's tail - measured voltage across the head of the barrel - 11. something V - so then I looked at the head / bi-pin holder and thought then why doesn't it work???

So I put the head on & now it works. Without me really doing anything - (from my perspective).

Thanks for all the help - obviously I had a poor connection but I'm not quite sure what I did to make it better! Any insight from anyone I would appreciate.

Neale

 

[fivemega]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

The bulb is an M20 or M21 - but I did run it over on the M6 body after I did not get it to work.

I have no idea how you match the voltage of 3x18650 with MN21 or MN21

The cells are ~4 to 5 months old.
I guess the next step is to take my one WA1185 and put it in my FM bi-pin holder - and check my cells (I have IMRs as well).

It's a good idea to test with different batteries or different bulbs such as WA1166 before posting and confusing others.
There is a chance that your brand new batteries are not healthy or your bulb is burnt.

So I looked up at the head connection - M6 has no ano on threads, Megelannium has ano on threads.... is this the problem?

No,
M6 and Megalennium get negative contact from buttom of lamp assembly outer spring seat.
It's meaningless to remove anodizing from threads.
Remember, anodizing is not only for cosmetic purpose. It's protection against corrosion and friction.

In my case, if I try to measure voltage like this pciture, I got nothing.

Try pushing red lead harder down. If you get voltage, then heat shrink of battery might be too thick at negative end.
Protected 18650 cells are longer than IMR and tail pressure will be greater to make good contact.

The head contact piece is not working correctly. Either the recess for the brass is too deep, or the brass bar is too short. I have verify it with multimeter and caliper.

Seems like someone else on the forum has the same problem. Please advice of a solution.

What lamp assembly are you using?

I tried both MN21 and LZ's LED module. But that doesn't matter. I measured with multimeter, and there's a break somewhere in the head contact. I stuck my finger there, I can feel the brass contact is just barely above the white plastic. Hosts from your previous batch are different.

Never ever think of using this bulb in this flashlight.
I don't have or familiar to LED module and as far as I understand, they may not work in Megalennium because don't have positive and negative electrical spring contacts.

 

[niner]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

Try pushing red lead harder down. If you get voltage, then heat shrink of battery might be too thick at negative end.
Protected 18650 cells are longer than IMR and tail pressure will be greater to make good contact.

The one in the picture is IMR battery. I pushed pretty hard, but no good. Again, all AW batteries that work with last batch of Megalennium don't work with this one. Did you change the design? or I'm unlucky and got another bad one. (I have a bad 4x18650 holder and waiting for a replacement)

 

[fivemega]

Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

The one in the picture is IMR battery. I pushed pretty hard, but no good. Again, all AW batteries that work with last batch of Megalennium don't work with this one. Did you change the design? or I'm unlucky and got another bad one.

If none of batteries work, you may send it back for replacement.

 

[niner]

I "enhanced" the contact by putting a little bit of silver solder on the contact. Now it works as it should be.

 

[QtrHorse]

Ok, it seems as if I'm having this same problem now. The light worked fine for about 20 cycles and then nothing. The bulb works in other M heads and the AW switch works in SF tailcaps. I am using AW protected cells, not IMR's.

Tell me if this makes any sense.

I can take a DC reading from the one positive cell top and one of the negative cell bottoms in the body and get a reading of 8.3V. I then try the other negative cell bottom and get nothing. I get 4.15V when I touch this same negative bottom that did not work with the other positive top and then touch the outer edge of the of the body.

I also did the same as Niner by testing a cell in each slot and they all gave a good reading without applying any pressure to them.

I'm guessing this is correct? Are there some other readings I should be taking?

What else could be wrong with the light that would keep it from working?