Roto-lock, frame lock etc etc. Positives and negatives, which is the most secure, etc. As we are now also looking at knives for my wife. Currently has a small leatherman micra in her purse that she uses ALOT, and has expressed interest in a slightly bigger knife. Just a knife, no other things really needed on it. Due to my filleting my thumb, we decided to look into the assorted knives and curious to hear the first hand versions of these mechanisms.
Could someone explain the different lock mechanisms on folders
- Thread starter Vortus
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SARLights
Newly Enlightened
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- Aug 6, 2010
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Here's a basic list of the main ones. You can find more details on different ones on the web. Here's another basic list:https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Pocket_knife :candle:
Now this is just a very basic guide. To find what really suits you, you should really get your(or her) hands on as many knives as possible.
I wouldn't recommend ordering online unless you had used that knive a LOT beforehand, either having previously owned one, or using an acquaintances knife. Knives are one of those tools that just have to be picked in person.
Slip-Joint -Mainly used on older style pocket knives, the opened blade does not actually lock in a solid position but is held in place by a spring device that allows the blade to fold if a certain amount of pressure is applied. While the pressure required to shut it varies by manufacturer, it's still not a safe system, and can shut by accident fairly easily.
Liner Lock - The "Liner Lock" is very common. Its main advantage is that it allows one to disengage the lock with one hand. It consists of a liner bent so that when the blade opens, the liner presses against the rear of the tang, preventing it from swinging back. To disengage, you press the liner to the side of the knife from where it is
attached to the inside of the scales. The downside to this, is that on most knives with this system, your finger is in the way of the blade when disengaging and sometimes results in a sliced open finger.
Frame Lock - A "Frame Lock" operates very much like a liner lock, only the lock is a tensioned part of the handle frame with an open channel. When the blade opens, the frame lock moves into the handle opening and locks against the blade. Pushing to the left releases it from its "locked" position so you can close the blade.
Lockback - A "Lockback" or "Rocker" gets its name from a rocking lock plate visible on the back of the handle. Opening the blade causes the "rocker" to lock against the blade so it locks open. Pushing down on the rocker at the back of the handle releases it and enables you to close the blade. Lockbacks require two- hand closing, though some are one-hand openers.
And then there are a very large amount of proprietary locking mechanisms by different companies, all claiming to be innovative and different, but most follow these basic types.
Hope this helps!
Now this is just a very basic guide. To find what really suits you, you should really get your(or her) hands on as many knives as possible.
I wouldn't recommend ordering online unless you had used that knive a LOT beforehand, either having previously owned one, or using an acquaintances knife. Knives are one of those tools that just have to be picked in person.
Slip-Joint -Mainly used on older style pocket knives, the opened blade does not actually lock in a solid position but is held in place by a spring device that allows the blade to fold if a certain amount of pressure is applied. While the pressure required to shut it varies by manufacturer, it's still not a safe system, and can shut by accident fairly easily.
Liner Lock - The "Liner Lock" is very common. Its main advantage is that it allows one to disengage the lock with one hand. It consists of a liner bent so that when the blade opens, the liner presses against the rear of the tang, preventing it from swinging back. To disengage, you press the liner to the side of the knife from where it is
attached to the inside of the scales. The downside to this, is that on most knives with this system, your finger is in the way of the blade when disengaging and sometimes results in a sliced open finger.
Frame Lock - A "Frame Lock" operates very much like a liner lock, only the lock is a tensioned part of the handle frame with an open channel. When the blade opens, the frame lock moves into the handle opening and locks against the blade. Pushing to the left releases it from its "locked" position so you can close the blade.
Lockback - A "Lockback" or "Rocker" gets its name from a rocking lock plate visible on the back of the handle. Opening the blade causes the "rocker" to lock against the blade so it locks open. Pushing down on the rocker at the back of the handle releases it and enables you to close the blade. Lockbacks require two- hand closing, though some are one-hand openers.
And then there are a very large amount of proprietary locking mechanisms by different companies, all claiming to be innovative and different, but most follow these basic types.
Hope this helps!
Last edited:
jellydonut
Enlightened
Just wanted to add my two cents - I disregarded the advice you gave here and ordered an unseen knife online. It was on sale so I figured why not.
This knife, the CRKT M16-14, does not have the above problem. Whether by coincidence or by design this knife avoids putting your hand in harm's way when closing one-handed.I have too much time on my hands so I made a stupid pictorial;
http://img194.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img0894cq.jpg
carrot
Flashaholic
Wikipedia has a terrible and outdated idea of pocket knives. Most knife geeks don't bother with Wikipedia.
Here's what you actually need to know.
All locking mechanisms have strong points and weak points. There's no such thing as the perfect locking mechanism, although there is such a thing as an ideal mechanism for a given condition/task. What matters more than the principal of the locking mechanism itself is the build quality and precision built into the locking mechanism and the maker's reputation. Spyderco, Cold Steel and Benchmade are especially well-regarded brands for reliable and durable locking mechanisms. All mechanisms will wear out over time, but with modern knives they are unlikely to wear out within your lifetime. Some mechanisms provide better self-adjusting for "wear in" than others.
Lockbacks:
- two popular variants are Al Mar's Front Lock (used by Spyderco) and Andrew Demko's Tri-Ad Lock (used by Cold Steel)
- a spring-actuated lockbar that prevents knife closure by fitting a tab into an opening at the top of the blade
- may be closed by one hand with minimal practice (video link). FWIW, I've been carrying lockbacks for years and I consider the example video "slow".
- offers a strong detent against accidental opening
- offers the best audible feedback for proper lockup (if it isn't safe, it won't make a crisp click sound)
- susceptible to non-critical failure conditions (field-repairable) when lock is jammed with debris
- can be difficult to clean
Liner locks:
- often attributed to Michael Walker, eg: Walker Liner Lock
- a leaf spring that is a cut-out part of the knife's interior metal liners, prevents closure by blocking the tang of the knife from folding inwards
- may be closed by one hand
- offers excellent self-adjustment to wear
- may or may not offer a strong detent against accidental opening
- more resilient to debris
- is a "handed" lock -- must be made right-handed or left-handed
- a poorly manufactured, maintained or damaged one can slip off the tang allowing the knife to fold easily
- a poorly designed one may unlock when gripping the knife tightly
- titanium is a favored material thanks to its galling (sticking) properties, but is softer and wears somewhat faster than stainless
- may or may not be difficult to clean depending on design of overall knife (if being able to clean a knife of debris easily, look for an open-back design)
Integral/frame locks:
- developed by Chris Reeve
- same benefits and detriments and similarly constructed as liner, except with a much thicker lockbar and directly exposed rather than covered by scales
- gripping the knife tightly will serve to strengthen the lockup, not weaken it, unlike with a traditional liner lock
- a poorly implemented frame lock (found on inexpensive knives) can be overextended when unlocking, serving to weaken the lockup
AXIS locks:
- developed by McHenry & Williams, a Benchmade exclusive (Spyderco and SOG offer locks based on similar principles however)
- can be closed very easily and quickly one-handed
- widely considered to be one of the strongest locks ever made
- uses a small barbell (think piercing barbell, not weight lifting) to block the closure of the blade. Barbell slips into place at the base of the spine of the blade to lock
- the Omega springs used by the AXIS are considered by some to be fragile and there are repeated known cases of breakage. However, the AXIS uses two and will continue to function fairly safely even if one is broken. (However, the knife should be sent in for repair at the earliest convenience.)
- offers a light detent against accidental opening, most users take advantage of this to flick the blade out at alarming speeds
- good self-adjustment
- performs well in dirty environments
- may be difficult to clean
Ball Bearing Lock & Caged BBL:
- developed internally at Spyderco
- works on similar principles to the AXIS, but uses a ball bearing instead of a barbell and coil springs instead of fragile Omega springs
- believed (and highly debated) to be theoretically stronger than the AXIS, on principle of the way the BB mates with the rest of the mechanism
- may be hard to close one-handed, often takes practice
- similar, but usually stronger detent as AXIS
- good self adjustment
- BBL performs well in dirty environments but may be difficult to unlock one-handed or to clean (unknown for CBBL)
Compression lock:
- developed internally at Spyderco
- applies leverage in a similar fashion to AXIS and BBL, however, is mechanically simpler (like a liner) and theoretically far more reliable
- widely considered to be one of the strongest and most reliable locks ever made
- easy to close one-handed, but may take practice
- some models offer stronger detents than others
- good self-adjustment
- exceptionally easy to clean
- side note: one of the most technically brilliant locks ever made, with no technical downsides: however, not especially popular due to extremely unconventional locking mechanism
Different locks for different uses. My personal preferences dictate what I pick for a given day.
For urban carry I like lockbacks the best. I find them the most fun to play with, the easiest to unlock, and offer the most pleasing audible feedback. They also hurt your fingers the least if you obsessively manipulate them like I do.
When I go camping, I like liner, integral, and compression locks the best. They offer an unparalleled "solid" feeling for woodwork and are easiest to clean (if you cook with them).
But, that's just my preferences.
Here's what you actually need to know.
All locking mechanisms have strong points and weak points. There's no such thing as the perfect locking mechanism, although there is such a thing as an ideal mechanism for a given condition/task. What matters more than the principal of the locking mechanism itself is the build quality and precision built into the locking mechanism and the maker's reputation. Spyderco, Cold Steel and Benchmade are especially well-regarded brands for reliable and durable locking mechanisms. All mechanisms will wear out over time, but with modern knives they are unlikely to wear out within your lifetime. Some mechanisms provide better self-adjusting for "wear in" than others.
Lockbacks:
- two popular variants are Al Mar's Front Lock (used by Spyderco) and Andrew Demko's Tri-Ad Lock (used by Cold Steel)
- a spring-actuated lockbar that prevents knife closure by fitting a tab into an opening at the top of the blade
- may be closed by one hand with minimal practice (video link). FWIW, I've been carrying lockbacks for years and I consider the example video "slow".
- offers a strong detent against accidental opening
- offers the best audible feedback for proper lockup (if it isn't safe, it won't make a crisp click sound)
- susceptible to non-critical failure conditions (field-repairable) when lock is jammed with debris
- can be difficult to clean
Liner locks:
- often attributed to Michael Walker, eg: Walker Liner Lock
- a leaf spring that is a cut-out part of the knife's interior metal liners, prevents closure by blocking the tang of the knife from folding inwards
- may be closed by one hand
- offers excellent self-adjustment to wear
- may or may not offer a strong detent against accidental opening
- more resilient to debris
- is a "handed" lock -- must be made right-handed or left-handed
- a poorly manufactured, maintained or damaged one can slip off the tang allowing the knife to fold easily
- a poorly designed one may unlock when gripping the knife tightly
- titanium is a favored material thanks to its galling (sticking) properties, but is softer and wears somewhat faster than stainless
- may or may not be difficult to clean depending on design of overall knife (if being able to clean a knife of debris easily, look for an open-back design)
Integral/frame locks:
- developed by Chris Reeve
- same benefits and detriments and similarly constructed as liner, except with a much thicker lockbar and directly exposed rather than covered by scales
- gripping the knife tightly will serve to strengthen the lockup, not weaken it, unlike with a traditional liner lock
- a poorly implemented frame lock (found on inexpensive knives) can be overextended when unlocking, serving to weaken the lockup
AXIS locks:
- developed by McHenry & Williams, a Benchmade exclusive (Spyderco and SOG offer locks based on similar principles however)
- can be closed very easily and quickly one-handed
- widely considered to be one of the strongest locks ever made
- uses a small barbell (think piercing barbell, not weight lifting) to block the closure of the blade. Barbell slips into place at the base of the spine of the blade to lock
- the Omega springs used by the AXIS are considered by some to be fragile and there are repeated known cases of breakage. However, the AXIS uses two and will continue to function fairly safely even if one is broken. (However, the knife should be sent in for repair at the earliest convenience.)
- offers a light detent against accidental opening, most users take advantage of this to flick the blade out at alarming speeds
- good self-adjustment
- performs well in dirty environments
- may be difficult to clean
Ball Bearing Lock & Caged BBL:
- developed internally at Spyderco
- works on similar principles to the AXIS, but uses a ball bearing instead of a barbell and coil springs instead of fragile Omega springs
- believed (and highly debated) to be theoretically stronger than the AXIS, on principle of the way the BB mates with the rest of the mechanism
- may be hard to close one-handed, often takes practice
- similar, but usually stronger detent as AXIS
- good self adjustment
- BBL performs well in dirty environments but may be difficult to unlock one-handed or to clean (unknown for CBBL)
Compression lock:
- developed internally at Spyderco
- applies leverage in a similar fashion to AXIS and BBL, however, is mechanically simpler (like a liner) and theoretically far more reliable
- widely considered to be one of the strongest and most reliable locks ever made
- easy to close one-handed, but may take practice
- some models offer stronger detents than others
- good self-adjustment
- exceptionally easy to clean
- side note: one of the most technically brilliant locks ever made, with no technical downsides: however, not especially popular due to extremely unconventional locking mechanism
Different locks for different uses. My personal preferences dictate what I pick for a given day.
For urban carry I like lockbacks the best. I find them the most fun to play with, the easiest to unlock, and offer the most pleasing audible feedback. They also hurt your fingers the least if you obsessively manipulate them like I do.
When I go camping, I like liner, integral, and compression locks the best. They offer an unparalleled "solid" feeling for woodwork and are easiest to clean (if you cook with them).
But, that's just my preferences.
