DIY modular light system: 4xP7 dive light

[hanachan]

Hi, all

This light is the another sample of modular light system ( ill use 'modular' instead of 'sectional' ).

left: mod MTE P7 light, right: 18650 battery

Components used in this light

The battery canister, switch box and one of the light modules were used in the DIY video light system previously reported.
I made newly 3 light modules ( SSC P7 + 8xAMC7135 ) and light container.

The module type of light system has the advantage that reconstruction or version up is easy and possible at low cost.

test run at home bathtub

very bright!

compared with mod MTE P7 light

upper: this light, lower: mod MTE P7

Thank you.

EDIT: replace the pic with small one

 

[Goldigger]

When do we get to see the Goodman handle lol...

How the feck do you carry it?

 

[gcbryan]

As a specialized tub illumination devise this is not necessary.

When do we get to see the Goodman handle lol...

How the feck do you carry it?

 

[Goldigger]

As a specialized tub illumination devise this is not necessary.

Bath tub?
Maybe one would be to bright for my pond..

 

[hanachan]

How the feck do you carry it?

i have made this light as a hand held light for the moment.

comparing it with my DIY camera(E-3) housing, it is not so big (about 12x12x14cm) .
So i think i can dive holding it in a hand.

its weight about 1kg on land and 500g under water. so ill attach a float to it.
This is prototype. i want to remodel it while diving with it.

 

[Goldigger]

What are you using for a battery pack?
Please dont tell me your going to be holding this in the other hand? If you have 4 hands then thats cool...

 

[Linger]

the battery pack is the grey cylinder in the first pic. (other component is controller, then emitter component). From submersed pics it looks like battery pack fits under the handle.

hanachan, great work. Are you posting build pics on your site?
http://hanachan.ddo.jp/ was down when I checked.
Brilliant work DIY'ing dive lights. I'm glad to see dive lights demystified.
Do you have access to 'JB Weld?' also called 'cold weld' here, it is very popular among boaters and divers as a perminant depth-proof 2-part metal epoxy. I think if you use JB Weld you would not need so much silicone caulking, may make your lights look even more professional.

 

[gav6280]

I would put money on it that this wouldn't survive a weeks rib diving at 30 - 50 meters in the UK.... Getting constantly bashed about and subjected to a dynamic 6 bar repeatedly?

 

[gcbryan]

Thanks for this post. I wouldn't have thought about 2 part epoxy and diving.

So, if you had a light with a twist end cap you could use JB Weld to seal the head and only have to worry about orings for the twist end cap.

You would still have to deal with sealing the lens I wonder if you can use silicone (caulk) for that?

the battery pack is the grey cylinder in the first pic. (other component is controller, then emitter component). From submersed pics it looks like battery pack fits under the handle.

hanachan, great work. Are you posting build pics on your site?
http://hanachan.ddo.jp/ was down when I checked.
Brilliant work DIY'ing dive lights. I'm glad to see dive lights demystified.
Do you have access to 'JB Weld?' also called 'cold weld' here, it is very popular among boaters and divers as a perminant depth-proof 2-part metal epoxy. I think if you use JB Weld you would not need so much silicone caulking, may make your lights look even more professional.

 

[Packhorse]

I would put money on it that this wouldn't survive a weeks rib diving at 30 - 50 meters in the UK.... Getting constantly bashed about and subjected to a dynamic 6 bar repeatedly?

Can you do better Gav?

 

[hanachan]

Are you posting build pics on your site?

sorry not yet uploaded at my site.
after diving test ill report the result.

Do you have access to 'JB Weld?' also called 'cold weld' here, it is very popular among boaters and divers as a perminant depth-proof 2-part metal epoxy. I think if you use JB Weld you would not need so much silicone caulking, may make your lights look even more professional.

Thank you for the information.
'JB Weld' is famous in Japan too.
its adhesive strength is very strong and it is very hard after dry.

i have used many kinds of adhesives for my UW DIY about 10 years.
Saying from my experience i think epoxy is NOT good for sealing (my DIY parts).

because
1) i cannot disassemble the stuff glued with epoxy.
2) its sealing is complete for a while but one day the sealing is abruptly broken...that is my impression.

The adhesive strength of silicone sealant is weak but its elasticity is
good for sealing against water invasion, i think.

i fill the silicone in the switch or current regulator box. This makes dead space in the box minimal and give the box enough strength against water pressure.

 

[steve6690]

4 x P7's should be very effective if the beam is narrow enough. Nice project !. Looking forward to some underwater beamshots..

 

[gav6280]

Can you do better Gav?

Just commenting that it doesnt give the apeerance of being very robust or that it could go beyond a quick snorkel.

I accept i may be wrong.

Remember this is only a forum, and everyone is entitled to there own opinion and free speech, weather it be good, bad, right,wrong or indifferent....

--

Out of intrest how deep have you taken is so far? What are the limits of JB Weld?

 

[gav6280]

Just commenting that it doesn't give the apperance of being very robust or that it could go beyond a quick snorkel.

I accept i may be wrong.

Out of interest how deep have you taken is so far?

What are the limits of JB Weld?

 

[hanachan]

>gav6280
sorry. my mother said to me "don't bet money".

i know well my DIY waterproof is incomplete from my experience
of making waterproof camera housing which is much difficult than light sealing.

my strategy is somewhat different from others:
i do NOT aim the permanent waterproof. it needs an expensive machine,
good stuff and skills. i am prepared my light is sooner or later flooded.

LED and driver are sealed even if flooded they can be saved.
The converter and/or switch box is made by clear acrylic plate and sealed by clear
silicone sealant. so i can easily detect the initial sign of water invasion.
my light is made to be easily disassembled. so i can repair it before its damage is so serious.

BTW
i have no time to dive for a while. so i took the beam shots on land tonight.

1:MCU-C7s 2:R2 C6 casing 3:C2 MC-E 4:MTE P7 5:4xP7
two pipes attached to 4xP7 are float.

the distance between the camera and target cottage is about 30m.

i think C2 MC-2 is about 300-400 lumen and MTE P7 400-500lumen.
DIY 4xP7 is 2000-3000lumen. its cost about 100USD. this reflector is very effective.

 

[gcbryan]

That's bright! Thanks for the pictures Hanachan.

What is you're next project? Keep the pictures coming!

 

[gav6280]

I think you should do a submarine next, I got some sticky back plastic you can have if you like......LOL,

NO seriously thanks for your efforts, its interesting seeing what your going to come up with.

 

[Linger]

re: submarine lol... you're asking to step up ...

Hanachan, great job. You build systems that completely fulfill your requirements. %100 well done.

 

[hanachan]

happy new year!
thank you for the comments. uh submarine ..nice idea but no time nor money.
ive dove with the light and ill report the results:

i had to test a DIY housing for PANA GF1 together. so i connected it on the light.
with the light & housing at left hand i took a video by TZ7 at right hand.
so im sorry as the video was so bad:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8svAgNmJQB0
sado island, day dive, visibility:10-15m
the light & housing both no flooded at 24m max depth for 30min dive.
it was much brighter than the guide's 20W HID light.

you can see the famous big fish named 'KOBUDAI' living at this point.
thank you.

 

[Goldigger]

Nothing wrong with that video... good quality and nice and clear..