I ski all the time and now have 6" of snow in my yard. I have tried using ski gloves with the side switch on the cubs and in my opinion it is the most difficult light to activate in this manner that I have ever owned. I guess this just shows how much YMMV! Are you using the flat top tail cap on the Aleph? I could see the issue there, however standard or bald caps are not a significant problem for me. For me the new thin rubber boots are a major improvement for the LC although you sacrifice much of the waterproofing, but still by design a tiny recessed switch is not suitable to certain applications IMO.
The 19mm opening on the cub mods by TnC, and the 19mm opening on the new small heads for the Chameleon are good for the IMS20 since it's not truly 20mm. However it takes 20.5mm to utilize the McR-20 to its potential. Don posted a graphic in the lioncub thread depicting the surprising amount the edge of the reflector contributes to lux. Maybe 19mm is cutting the issue in half, but from a design perspective it doesn't solve it IMO. Everyone I know who has received a 20.5mm bezel has been happy with the difference. I'm sure for most this won't be critical and I don't claim it is. However many have spent up to $35 for U bins and the difference in lux might be comparable to this upgrade to 20.5mm from 19mm.
I agree the modular aspect is a big plus. However I would have rather seen the option to purchase the configuration that was desired from the outset so that you didn't have to buy "through" accessories you don't need for your intended result. For example many just wanted the Lionhead or the 168a tube and yet had to buy these as extras instead of in lieu of the 20mm head or the 123 tube. The Aleph system allowed you to buy just what you needed.
My Lionhead had impressive lux readings, however the beam wouldn't center and it produced tints shifts and artifacts. Perhaps if I spent more time I could get it to align properly. Some artifacts were understandable with the smooth reflector designed for maximum throw. The lux reading rivaled some of my much larger BBH heads for the VIP.
"If you choose to permanently affix the star that is possible (with thermal epoxy), but the head (IMLE) does not "shift out of center" with the head and reflector in place. As far as the LionHead is concerned, can you clarify by what you mean about beam quality issues? The LionHead is great!"---Geologist quote.
I had cubs arrive new from MR Bulk out of center to begin with. One star required filing to be centered and never was. I understand this happened to others. There are more issues than center when discussing the pasted on stars. However the IMS not only doesn't seem to keep the stars centered, the legs can actually grab the star when you unscrew the head. Also when the Lionhead is on there is nothing holding the star in place other than paste that gets very slick when hot. One of my stars partially lifted off the module, thereby compromising heat sinking. That was something else I liked about using the McR-20; it compressed the star to keep it centered and to ensure a heat sink and it was convenient for removing the head.
This comes back to design and assembly. A second post could have been included or a simple screw could have been used to center and hold the stars. Even epoxy would have been an improvement and as with any of these methods the stars could still be replaced. From my perspective this was a cost cutting measure. It would have been much easier for the builder to set up a method to center and affix the stars before sending them out than for the buyers to do this. If you are looking for a turnkey light this might not be your ticket. If you like playing with these things then that's a different matter and you probably can have very good results. If your primary objective is to replace the stars easily, it's hard to beat this light, unless of course you consider the new Indium Smart, which has a nice engineered solution at a higher price.
I am not arguing personal preference and surely the facts don't say it all. Until I discovered these lights didn't work for me as EDCs I liked them as well. However I just want to be honest. This isn't a sales thread and I'm not trashing anyone's thread. If you want a rugged duty light that you need to grab in the dark, or without looking at it to turn it on quickly, or if you wear thick gloves the cub likely isn't your best bet. If this is a shelf queen, or if you only will use it for casual use then the UI offers valuable features. This is probably how most use their lights anyhow. As a second light for candlelight for low levels etc., I would use them myself. If you can overlook the inherent build issues, or if you don't care if it's a Porsche with the engineering, that's valid. Many would prefer a Chevy regardless of price. Surely it all ends with preference. As Geologist said, until you use a light it really to a large extent is all words. I buy a lot of lights just to check them out and then I resell them. However I take issue when comparing the build and engineering attributes of the cubs to either the PD or the HDS. You will not find the same types of issues IMO.
In terms of warranty, 9 months ago I would have given testimony to how great MR Bulk's service was on lights I purchased new, as well as used. I believe if you aren't critical then you likely won't experience the "cut-off" I did with MR Bulk. I hope I've helped rather than aid confusion. Good luck and I'm through posting here.
The 19mm opening on the cub mods by TnC, and the 19mm opening on the new small heads for the Chameleon are good for the IMS20 since it's not truly 20mm. However it takes 20.5mm to utilize the McR-20 to its potential. Don posted a graphic in the lioncub thread depicting the surprising amount the edge of the reflector contributes to lux. Maybe 19mm is cutting the issue in half, but from a design perspective it doesn't solve it IMO. Everyone I know who has received a 20.5mm bezel has been happy with the difference. I'm sure for most this won't be critical and I don't claim it is. However many have spent up to $35 for U bins and the difference in lux might be comparable to this upgrade to 20.5mm from 19mm.
I agree the modular aspect is a big plus. However I would have rather seen the option to purchase the configuration that was desired from the outset so that you didn't have to buy "through" accessories you don't need for your intended result. For example many just wanted the Lionhead or the 168a tube and yet had to buy these as extras instead of in lieu of the 20mm head or the 123 tube. The Aleph system allowed you to buy just what you needed.
My Lionhead had impressive lux readings, however the beam wouldn't center and it produced tints shifts and artifacts. Perhaps if I spent more time I could get it to align properly. Some artifacts were understandable with the smooth reflector designed for maximum throw. The lux reading rivaled some of my much larger BBH heads for the VIP.
"If you choose to permanently affix the star that is possible (with thermal epoxy), but the head (IMLE) does not "shift out of center" with the head and reflector in place. As far as the LionHead is concerned, can you clarify by what you mean about beam quality issues? The LionHead is great!"---Geologist quote.
I had cubs arrive new from MR Bulk out of center to begin with. One star required filing to be centered and never was. I understand this happened to others. There are more issues than center when discussing the pasted on stars. However the IMS not only doesn't seem to keep the stars centered, the legs can actually grab the star when you unscrew the head. Also when the Lionhead is on there is nothing holding the star in place other than paste that gets very slick when hot. One of my stars partially lifted off the module, thereby compromising heat sinking. That was something else I liked about using the McR-20; it compressed the star to keep it centered and to ensure a heat sink and it was convenient for removing the head.
This comes back to design and assembly. A second post could have been included or a simple screw could have been used to center and hold the stars. Even epoxy would have been an improvement and as with any of these methods the stars could still be replaced. From my perspective this was a cost cutting measure. It would have been much easier for the builder to set up a method to center and affix the stars before sending them out than for the buyers to do this. If you are looking for a turnkey light this might not be your ticket. If you like playing with these things then that's a different matter and you probably can have very good results. If your primary objective is to replace the stars easily, it's hard to beat this light, unless of course you consider the new Indium Smart, which has a nice engineered solution at a higher price.
I am not arguing personal preference and surely the facts don't say it all. Until I discovered these lights didn't work for me as EDCs I liked them as well. However I just want to be honest. This isn't a sales thread and I'm not trashing anyone's thread. If you want a rugged duty light that you need to grab in the dark, or without looking at it to turn it on quickly, or if you wear thick gloves the cub likely isn't your best bet. If this is a shelf queen, or if you only will use it for casual use then the UI offers valuable features. This is probably how most use their lights anyhow. As a second light for candlelight for low levels etc., I would use them myself. If you can overlook the inherent build issues, or if you don't care if it's a Porsche with the engineering, that's valid. Many would prefer a Chevy regardless of price. Surely it all ends with preference. As Geologist said, until you use a light it really to a large extent is all words. I buy a lot of lights just to check them out and then I resell them. However I take issue when comparing the build and engineering attributes of the cubs to either the PD or the HDS. You will not find the same types of issues IMO.
In terms of warranty, 9 months ago I would have given testimony to how great MR Bulk's service was on lights I purchased new, as well as used. I believe if you aren't critical then you likely won't experience the "cut-off" I did with MR Bulk. I hope I've helped rather than aid confusion. Good luck and I'm through posting here.
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