Does anybody know where I can get a control box AN/VSS-3

[eyesonfire]

Just picked up a AN/VSS-3 Tank Light and am trying to find a control box with or without cables.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BVH]

Very, very difficult to find. After 2 years of looking, I found one on Ebay about a year ago. None since. Did you pick up a VSS-3 or VSS-3A? The boxes are not interchangeable. Using a 3A box on a 3 will incur damage and using a 3 box on a 3A, the light will not work but no damage. Your best chance may be to buy a complete -3 (he has no 3A's) light and control box set from the guy on Ebay who's been trying to sell more than 10 of the VSS-3's for a couple of years. Use the light you just got as spare parts. I'm not trying to be negative and I don't provide much help but that is the reality unfortunately - lights are somewhat plentiful but control boxes are very rare.

 

[eyesonfire]

I will post a pic later today. Not sure which one it is. One thing different about it though is it has tube about 7 inches long 4 inches diameter, coming from the center of the lens. And at the end of the tube is a Fresnel lens. The ones i always see dont have that.. Also is there anyway to fire up the unit by bypassing the control box altogether? Thanks..

 

[BVH]

There is no way I know of to fire it without the control box. It's pretty much an essential part of the circuits - start - boost & run. I'm interested to see what the "Fresnel Lens" thing looks like. Post a few good pics from different angles.

 

[eyesonfire]

http://images2.snapfish.com/2323232...:6=ot>395<=<44=525=XROQDF>2824643374258ot1lsi

http://images2.snapfish.com/2323232...;9>nu=486;>;53>434>WSNRCG=373373427;349nu0mrj

 

[eyesonfire]

There is a few pics of the horn looking thing. I think im going to tear into this thing and get it working without the control box. I dont see much of a issue getting it to fire up, its the extra features i may have a problem with. blower, focus motor, delay turn off, etc.. I like a challenge....

In the horn/tube, i see what looks to be a laser diode. Kind of like a TOLD9100. Or maybe a IR detector of some kind...

 

[BVH]

Well that certainly is interesting! That's a VSS-3A model. The snout looks to be a completely separate add-on device by your pics. Are those power connection terminals on the snout? On the VSS-3A, there is no light projected out of the center where the snout is connected. Does the snout device appear to be professionally installed as if done by a military hardware contractor or do you think an individual did the work? It's always exciting to find new Short Arc lights and this is just as exciting! Please take plenty of close-up pics as you disassemble it. What does the text on the red label on the snout say?

Just some data: Regarding the light, that lamp will not want to be lit very long without the forced air cooling. There are capacitors in the VSS-3A control box which are needed for the ignition and boost cycles. I don't remember if the electronic timers/sensing devices are in the light body or the control box.

EDIT add: The lamps in these lights are well known to break in shipment. You may want to take a look at that first. Use a face shield and some protective clothing when working with it.

 

[eyesonfire]

Thank you for your help. I will take many detailed pictures. The two terminals on that horn say 15 V out. It looks to be high quality and done by the contractor. The lamp is intact, and yes I will take extreme care when working around the unit if I decide on tackling this project. I may just sell it or trade it. I was hoping to find the control box and cables. And I would hate to ruin a good unit. Seeing that you are into these lights I will take pictures for you so you may better see what that add-on is. Again your help is appreciated.

Michael
eyesonfire

 

[BVH]

You had the restraint not to open her up?

 

[Walterk]

I was looking for a control box also, some time ago;
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...VSS-3A-what-s-inside-the-controlbox&highlight=

Bottom line for me after my research and contacting experienced electriciens was: almost any thing in the box is remote switches.
I would re-build your own box with controls, switches and signal lamps.
The only item with specific needs would be to reproduce the bank of condensators which is not difficult.
Check out that route before giving up the light, and keep in mind BVH's comment that wrong installation can harm the light.
I opted out and recently ended up with a smaller searchlight.
If you know some people that can help interpret the diagrams you are almost there.

 

[eyesonfire]

I'm hoping you can help me with this. In the post you said it looked like I had VSS-3A model is there a way I can tell. There are no markings on the outside but many on the inside on each component.

I was able to pick up a control box on ebay today Military Searchlight Control Set, C-7905B/VSS-3A. item # 360843054097
I'm hoping there was a way I can find out what light I have and if it is compatible with that control set.

Next question. Where is a good source to buy a cable for the unit or parts to build my own.

I was able to remove the horn from the glass lens. It was attached with silicone, and was difficult to remove so as not to break the glass.
Inside the horn was a photo diode, thats all. Maybe as a war game sensor. Anyway it looks better without it.


Thanks for your help.


Michael
eyesonfire

 

[BVH]

Excellent find! Id done a few searches to be sure that there were none on there but my searches came back negative - even using some of the search words in the sellers ad. The VSS-3A's are basically 4-sided with slightly rounded corners - your light, my light. The VSS-3's look more 6-sided:

ww.ebay.com/itm/INFRARED-SEARCHLIGHT-FSN-5855-135-0156-MX-8272-VSS-3-28VDC-52A-/151201681006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2334528e6e

The control box you got looks exactly like mine and is for the -3A. The front "glass" should be plexiglass. Both the -3A's I've had were/are.

You have no cables, right? I'll find the link to a post here on CPF that has the Amphenol connector part numbers. You'll need to make your own. They will be expensive to buy and make. One fitting is about $125.00 IIRC and you'll need 3. And you will not find the connector fitting threaded ring that fits on the light itself. You can buy the basic connector with a ring but it will not thread on. But that really doesn't matter because the fitting pushes in with much friction and does not need to ring to stay on. You'll need some #4 AWG flexible welding cable for the main power wires to the box and also from the box to the light. There's a bunch of other sizes of wires in the same box-to-light bundle. Lots of soldering involved some with a small torch (the #4's). The one box-to-light cable took me all day to make. And you have to be careful handling the blue plastic pieces of the connectors. They chip very easily. Don't want to paint a bleak picture, just want to give you a head's up that it takes time and money to get the jobs accomplished.

Here's the post with the Amphenol connector info: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=1871898&viewfull=1#post1871898

There is tons of excellent info in this entire thread. You should read it from start to end. It will most likely answer all your questions.


How are you going to run the light - what's your power source? Two automotive-type batteries will fire it up but will not allow the light to perform near it's potential. At best, you'll get maybe 66% of it capability at 24 Volts. You really need a full 28 Volts and 85 Amps to run it (and start it) right.

 

[eyesonfire]

I'm a bit confused are you saying that the 3A looks six sided or for sided.
The front lens on mine is indeed glass not plexiglass..
Is there another way to determine what light I have?
Yes you are right I do not have any cables, if you know of a source or the best way to go about making them I would appreciate any help you could give me.
Thanks again

Michael

 

[eyesonfire]

Never mind I understand what you meant now.
Thanks for your help on the connectors.
I will keep you up-to-date on the progress
do you still have a light or did you get rid of yours?

 

[BVH]

I added a bunch of text to my initial post above. The VSS-3A is 4-sided - your light. The light in the Ebay link I provided is 6-sided - the top two front corners are very wide, 45 degree angles. The box you got matches your light.

 

[eyesonfire]

Luckily I am passionate about electronics or I would not have taken this on in the first place.
I was thinking about using a high power AGM battery. I would love to use lithium polymer but they are very expensive. What do you recommend.
I do not plan on using the light extensively more for the cool factor than anything.
I plan to build a tubular tripod and repaint the unit. I may end up selling it to make a profit once I play with it
of course.

 

[BVH]

I still have mine. It's one I wont ever sell. Rarely use it but just nice to have. The big stuff I still have is below in my signature.

 

[BVH]

I originally used two, 110 Ah UBC AGM's but even they, under load, provided at best 23.75 Volts initially and fell from there. There's a huge difference in performance when you hit 27+ under load. At home, I use a Realtech/Flowtrol 29 Volt/100 Amp rectifier which you can usually find on Ebay for about $150 to $250 shipped. I just got thru making a 30 Volt/100 Ah LiFeP04 battery pack for my NightSun which requires a little more than the VSS-3 so it will run it for about an hour. Here's the battery: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...htSun-on-Battery-Power-Soon-Testing-completed

 

[eyesonfire]

I also fly RC helicopters trex 550 which use lithium polymer batteries. Great power source.
I think that would be a great choice although very expensive.
I use a liFe battery for the receiver and servos on my heli and lithium polymer for the motor.
Is there a reason you prefer liFe over lipo.
I like the idea of using a rectifier to get the job done.
I will take your advice and do a lot of reading here and elsewhere, would it also be okay to contact you further if I have any questions?

Thanks
Michael

 

[BVH]

Sure, PM me if you want to talk by phone. I love talking about short arcs.

I also use RC Lipo packs, but less and less for the simple reason that they can "rapidly vent with flame" whereas LiFe will vent but without flame. There's an energy per Kg penalty but I don't want to burn my house down, even with the safety of using a FMA Dual PL8 charger. Buying enough 5 Ah Lipo packs would run in the $2,000's plus you can't quite get the right Voltage under load. Too much sag unless you go 7S2P/200 Ah.