driver for Cree R2 at 1000mA

[rayman]

As the title says I'm searching a driver for a Cree R2 which drives the emitter at 1000mA. I found some drivers at the Sandwich Shoppe but I'm a little bit confused right know because there are so many driver boards. Can I use the SOB 1000 Converter with two AW's 14500?

Another question: Where can I get the bare Cree R2 emitter?

Thanks
rayman

 

[Greg G]

The SOB1000 will work perfect for that. I've done that.

There is a place in Germany I believe that sells Cree LED's and if I remember correctly they did show R2's. http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-XR-E-7090-Series-c_120_77.html



Ok, this place is in Europe and shows Cree R2's.
http://www.leds.de/c2466/High_power_LEDs/Cree_LEDs.html

Edit: You may want to consider an SOB750. You'll get more runtime and not notice a decrease in lumens. I've tested Cree's with my supply and could hardly tell a difference between 750ma and 1000ma. When I have plenty of battery Mah I run 1000ma, but on something like yours with small amp hour batteries I consider 750ma drive current.

 

[rayman]

Just ordered a SOB 1000 converter because for my aspherical mod I really want as much lumen as possible :huh: and runtime doesn't matter.

rayman

 

[mash.m]

why do you not take a k2 (better overdrive capabilitys) or overdrive the cree-r2 with 1500-1800ma/h? when you do this, you must have a good thermal management, but you will get most out of the die.

markus

 

[rayman]

why do you not take a k2 (better overdrive capabilitys) or overdrive the cree-r2 with 1500-1800ma/h? when you do this, you must have a good thermal management, but you will get most out of the die.

Wouldn't the emitter get really hot when overdriving?

In this picture you can see the wiring of the converter but I don't know what GND means? Do you have to connect the GND contact with the positive contact of the battery?

rayman

 

[mash.m]

the led will get very hot, so you need a good thermal management. if you want to use a m*ag then you can glue the drop-in with the body. i have done this with my 6 die ostar. the body gets also warm so the heat tranfered good from the led to the drop-in to the body and head.

gnd is the minus of your battery.

markus

 

[rayman]

the led will get very hot, so you need a good thermal management. if you want to use a m*ag then you can glue the drop-in with the body. i have done this with my 6 die ostar. the body gets also warm so the heat tranfered good from the led to the drop-in to the body and head.

gnd is the minus of your battery.

markus

I'm using a spare H22A P7 heatsink but I think I'll first try it with the 1000mA.

So when GND is the minus of the battery, then Vin is the plus of the battery. Sounds logical as the electrons are going from plus to minus. I could have hit on it myself . But thanks .

rayman

 

[VanIsleDSM]

The electrons are actually flowing from the negative side to the positive, but best not to envision it that way, or it can get pretty confusing.

 

[Justin Case]

Wouldn't the emitter get really hot when overdriving?

In this picture you can see the wiring of the converter but I don't know what GND means? Do you have to connect the GND contact with the positive contact of the battery?

rayman

I recently wired an SOB 1000 to a Seoul P4 U2-bin emitter. I connected GND to the heat sink/pill (I soldered a small ring terminal to the end of the wire that I connected to GND, drilled and tapped a hole in the heat sink, and attached the ring terminal to the heat sink using an M2 machine screw). LED- goes to the - side of the LED emitter. LED+ goes to the + side of the emitter. I also made a solder ball in the center of the SOB 1000 on the other side of the board and attached a small, conical contact spring for V+.

 

[rayman]

The driver just arrived. Didn't expect the SOB 1000 driver board to be so small oo:. Ok so I can glue it to the heatsink.

rayman