So I have been reading everyones post but getting a little mind boggled. I am going to try for the mag light host mod for the drop ins. I am looking on info for batteries, on which would be best and driver if needed. I was thinking 6 d cell in series at 7.4. or 6 C cells to help with a smaller can. Any sugestions would be very helpful on this venture.
DX 5 canister build help
- Thread starter AJMichael
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Packhorse
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am also a fan of 7.4v Li Ion packs. There are several cheap and capable drivers that operate at this voltage and you can easily series up 2 LED's ( and parallel up many more pairs) and run them with linear drivers/ resistors.
Now doesn't the 5 mode DX5 have a built in driver? If it does then do I just series up 2 packs then parallel strands behind a piezo or do I still need some sort of resister chip behind the switch? If so what chip do you suggest to order if I ran 2 to 3 strands per light?
Has a driver, but not for a piezo switch, you'll need a separate "controller" for that! You would series 2 LiIon cells rated at 3.7 volts for 7.4 and then parallel strings of those!
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Just curious, why dim? I have the multimode and would rather have single mode.
I'm using this set up for video and from what a dive shop here that does tons of vids has told we with 1200 looms per light will be over kill and posable over exposure. Seeing how you use them how is the lighting when in close and how bad are the hot spots? The dive shop was saying I'd be happy with 30% of the power I'll have.
This set up will suck for video as-is... The hot spot is very hot! You will need a diffuser to use this! A piece of sanded plastic or something to get rid of the hot spot. You will lose quite a few lumens with that, but you should be able to make it work. With that said, it should be fine for video. I don't think it will be overexposed. That's what you have adjustments in your camera for.
Exactly.. Something like a plastic fluorescent light diffuser or a scrathed up piece of plexyglass or something to make the light diffuse.
If you build the light to where the DX 5 LED module carries some of the load, probably... Now recreational depth 130' may be. I would feel better with 5mm or about 0.2". You will have to mod the maglite to hold this thick lens though... Put on a lathe and remove some of the bezel threads.
gav6280
Enlightened
Lens thickness, diffusers, pizo switches, its all here just keep trolling through the various posts.....
Klem
Enlightened
Yes, 1/8 (3.5mm) Lexan will be strong enough for recreational depths in a Maglite.
Like Packhorse says, it's all here if you want to spend some time in the 'Library'.
Like Packhorse says, it's all here if you want to spend some time in the 'Library'.
Nope, you need some type of latching MOSFET blah blah blah device of which I know nothing about so I will stop saying anything else... lol! I think Klem was working on some.
A piezo switch is a "pulse switch" i.e when you touch the piezo it switches on and off in a split second (keeping your finger on the piezo will not give you a constant signal) You will need a "flip-flop" circuit to "hold" the pulse to alternate between constant on or constant off with each switch. You can use it to switch between modes also. I have seen piezo switch that gives a constant signal but I think they are more expensive and not readily available where i am from.
Klem has been very helpful with my Piezo mag mod. And I have also detailed my build here. Although I have no experience with reed switches, I have heard piezo are much more expensive. I am an electronics illiterate but following the circuit was easy enough. I am only concern if it works
whether the circuit efficient for your build is another matter.
Do a search here and you will find a wealth of information. Even dead threads from a few years ago can provide a lot of information.
Klem has been very helpful with my Piezo mag mod. And I have also detailed my build here. Although I have no experience with reed switches, I have heard piezo are much more expensive. I am an electronics illiterate but following the circuit was easy enough. I am only concern if it works
whether the circuit efficient for your build is another matter.Do a search here and you will find a wealth of information. Even dead threads from a few years ago can provide a lot of information.
Klem
Enlightened
The circuit/thread the guys are referring to is this one;
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=279248&highlight=maglite+mod
Yes, it also works with internal reed switches. I don't want to hijack this thread so I'll start another showing a couple of projects with toggle circuits and reed's.
The toggle circuit is not actually mine; it's an adaptation of something found on the net by a guy called Bill Bowen (he has a toggle circuit page if you ever want to search). I say this because you don't need to be an electronic wizard to put these things together. All it takes is some basic knowledge of electronics, and if you hang around this site long enough you pick up on what works and what doesn't, what to use and where to get it. Just follow the pictures and circuit diagram and you'll be fine.
One point, if you want to put this circuit into a C Cell Maglite then you need to build it fairly compact so it fits. I would recommend a D Cell with more diameter to work with, if you haven't already sourced the C Cell.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=279248&highlight=maglite+mod
Yes, it also works with internal reed switches. I don't want to hijack this thread so I'll start another showing a couple of projects with toggle circuits and reed's.
The toggle circuit is not actually mine; it's an adaptation of something found on the net by a guy called Bill Bowen (he has a toggle circuit page if you ever want to search). I say this because you don't need to be an electronic wizard to put these things together. All it takes is some basic knowledge of electronics, and if you hang around this site long enough you pick up on what works and what doesn't, what to use and where to get it. Just follow the pictures and circuit diagram and you'll be fine.
One point, if you want to put this circuit into a C Cell Maglite then you need to build it fairly compact so it fits. I would recommend a D Cell with more diameter to work with, if you haven't already sourced the C Cell.
