first i am going to drag you out back and shoot you, for not providing a link
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190
and then using to many abbreviations :laughing:
if your talking about the same C2 they are talking about the ultrafire c2
then you should look in the reviews on THAT page???
i bet you didnt know about the reviews there that are like a subminiature forum for just that part.
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OCEAN
This neat little board can easily be fitted into an UltraFire C2 with minimal effort - very easy !.
Tear apart your C2, remove the 2 solder blobs holding the original regulator board in the pill, unsolder the red and black wires from the old board and solder these existing red and black wires onto the new board.
You will have to file the edge of the new board to remove the 2 flat areas (where the board has been snapped away from its brothers) to make the new board fit neatly into the pill.
Solder a couple of low-profile blobs to secure the new board into the pill - at the same time you can solder a fat blob onto the central dot of the new board so a protected (no anode nipple)18650 can work fine.
This mod enables multi-modes with a C2, AND bright operation with a single 18650. A Q5 CREE on a modified star (filed edges of aluminium star to make it fit) will be the next step, making this an excellent light.
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a Q5 is about (depending on which one) 20lumens brighter than a P4, and how that looks to the human eye is about 105% or less, whoopie. Q5s are great, but not that much different than a P4 unless ya phosphors and die are fading.
most of the purpose of the board is to be a current regulator first, then it has the added microcontroller stuff to do the levels stuff.
chances are it really goes into direct drive at around 4volts or so, cause a lot of those do, because of the chips they use.
if you use 2 Cells and 6+ volts then you will need the other one, which drops out of regulation (the opposite way) right below the 4 volts
