E1B vs L1 vs PD20(or P2D)

[IcantC]

So I have been meaning to get a smaller backup light. Currently carrying on/with me Z2 with Q5 dropin from Dereelight, stock A2 with white LED and Jetbeam CL-E V2.

I like them all and no complaints(Jetbeam has a smaller button, but I can always press it with my thumb). I was looking to add another light, I wanted a single cell light for backup or sometimes being my primary duty light.

Sometimes when in a suit, can't always carry a full size duty light and would like something smaller and less obvious. I will be buying this sometime soon, so no rush.

I would prefer something that is a thrower. It would be ideal if it comes on high first and has a low mode. That is the reason I was going for the E1B. Then I saw the PD20, which seems to be nice(though lack of clip), I also notice it has reverse clicky and other modes which may get in the way?(Only own a E0 Fenix, but they seem good from what I see/read).

I have seen many threads and posts in my search, I know E1B flickers with RCRs unless I drain the voltage first), also some people do have switching problems. I like the L1 switch better, same as my A2. I was hoping someone that has all can offer me some insight.

I also saw this
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=189372
and
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=202652

among many other threads.

So my main Q's
1) Which will throw farthest?(E1B?)
2) Which can always come on in high mode first?
3) Which is brightest(I guess moot point, since I need throw)
4) Are these lights brighter than my A2 on high/incan mode? I guess I am trying to see how bright they are. I purchased a E1L(the old one, was sent the wrong one) and it was as bright as my Jetbeam CL-E, if not less.

I have it narrowed to these 3 mainly because if my SF has problems or breaks I can try to get replacement parts ASAP being in the US. Fenixstore is also great and in the US, so can help me out I hope. SF does have lifetime warranty, so I know I can always get it or parts replaced since lights will break. Fenix and SF seem to be main brands that I do not fear disappearing 6 months from now.

I know the PD20 is not out yet, so might be hard to get an answer on it. So am subbing the P2D.

Also I would like it to run on CR123s or RCRs. I know the E1B can be run with 3.0 RCRs.

Lastly, my other option is going to Milky to get a Bright high and a low low. Trying not to to go that route to save me some $$$.

PS I always have E0 on keychain and the rest of my light with me(bag or in car)(M6, P7 M@g and Low ROP).

 

[_Shawn_]

I have two of the three. Surefire L1 and L1D (same head as P2D) and "played with the E1B".

You can't really go wrong with any of the three.

1-The L1 and E1B will throw the farthest. The E1B may be a little further but I have not had it outside to test.
2-The E1B comes on high first. The P2D can be set to come on high (turbo) by fully tightening the head, lessen for the other 3 modes. The L1 comes on low first but because you can press harder ( like you're A2) high is a split second behind.
3-In terms of brightness, IMHO it sounds like are all close enough to meet your needs. In terms of throw L1 and E1B are best.
4- "Are these lights brighter than my A2 on high/incan mode?" They are rated higher and the L1 and E1B have more throw. But for me incan and LED are hard to compare because the light is different.

If I was in the same situation I'd get an L1 or E1B, and base my decision on the switch type and body texture that you like best (I chose the L1) but there really is not much of a difference. The E1B clicky can be easier that twisting to keep the light on but the L1 is easier to hold onto and has the switch like your A2.



hmmm...

Because two is better than one... I would also get the L1D and the P2D body and switch. This will give you the option of using CR123A with the P2D body and AA (nimh, litum, etc.) with the L1D body.

I can't give any advice on rechargeable 123's, have never used any.

 

[cslinger]

Ok lemme' splain, that takea too long, lemme sum up.

I have a P2D not the new P20 which I believe is more of a design change then actual light change so take that for what it is worth.

E1B - Defaults to HIGH mode, throws really well (farther then the P2D) but has a very nice useable spill as well. Well made good light with a bit of a love it or hate UI.

P2D - Can be set to come on in high, cheaper feeling but has never let me down. Love it or hate it UI, I actually like it. Noticeably smaller and of course cheaper.

They are about the same brightness, the P2D is probably a bit brighter on HIGH (Real world not lumens for lumens on spec sheets)

All in all I really like my E1B and my next light will be an L1 but I don't think you can go wrong with either.

 

[cslinger]

These are, indeed brighter then my A2s. No doubt. This is not taking anything away from the A2 but they are brighter.

Chris

 

[IcantC]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I guess I was comparing to my A2 since that is the most lumen wise comprable light I have. The Z2 I am guessing is way brighter and throws farther. The CL-E is a lot dimmer I suppose.

I would like to purchase 2 . But current funds do not make it feasible... At the moment .

The only thing I do not like about the Fenix is the lack of a clip.

I am leaning towards a E1B first and maybe a P2D/PD20 later on .

I saw those Kydex holsters Litemania was selling, was thinking of perhaps getting one and using for the Fenix/SF and a folder.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=169720

 

[superflytnt]

[quote=cslinger;2624283]Ok lemme' splain, that takea too long, lemme sum up.

I have a P2D not the new P20 which I believe is more of a design change then actual light change so take that for what it is worth.

E1B - Defaults to HIGH mode, throws really well (farther then the P2D) but has a very nice useable spill as well. Well made good light with a bit of a love it or hate UI.

P2D - Can be set to come on in high, cheaper feeling but has never let me down. Love it or hate it UI, I actually like it. Noticeably smaller and of course cheaper.

They are about the same brightness, the P2D is probably a bit brighter on HIGH (Real world not lumens for lumens on spec sheets)

All in all I really like my E1B and my next light will be an L1 but I don't think you can go wrong with either.[/quote]






Hello! My name is Inigo Montoya, you killed my father! Prepare to die!

I, too, would go with the E1B. I do like the L1's switch better but this latest generation of SF clickies seems to be reliable and the E1B is smaller, brighter, has much more runtime on low (and low is a good 10 lumens) and has a FAR superior clip.

Of course, with this latest SF price increase I'd be looking much harder at the Fenix line unless you can find an E1B for around $100................

 

[IcantC]

Haha I can swing a new one for about $100 .

 

[superflytnt]

Haha I can swing a new one for about $100 .

Snatch it up would be my advice. I got mine B4 the increase and wouldn't trade it for any fenix. I think that you'll be quite happy with the E1B, that little thing throws way out there on high for a 1" dia. head and the low level is perfect for most torch uses while getting nearly 35 hours of runtime. When you factor in that clip and simple UI it's a superb EDC light for sure...................

 

[H2Orower]

Oh boy, here we go...the E1B v. L1 discussion.

I have both, and for me, it's a "no-brainer"...E1B with Z68 tailcap.

 

[PseudoFed]

Oh boy, here we go...the E1B v. L1 discussion.

I have both, and for me, it's a "no-brainer"...E1B with Z68 tailcap.

I tend to agree. I just bought my 2nd E1B an hour ago at cheaper than dirt retail store for $110. It and the L1 are the only 2 SF EDC size lights I have 2 of. And I have an E2DL plus an Extra E2DL cap, so my E1Bs have that nice look and grippability!

 

[lumenal]

Sometimes when in a suit, can't always carry a full size duty light and would like something smaller and less obvious.

Although I like the aggressive SureFire knurling, it can quickly wear holes through clothing, like business suits.

The E1B, with its suttle flutes, and IMO excellent clip, is much more pocket friendly.

Alot of folks complain about the lack of knurling on the E1B, say its too slippery, but thats the idea, a small and pocket friendly powerhouse.

The clip also helps with grip.

 

[Stainz]

I've had the P2D Q5 Premium since Feb, the E1B since last Friday. I originally wanted to remove the E1B clip - but it has grown on me. The quality is there, too. The P2D - on Turbo - is brighter - no question. The two levels of the E1B make it quite useful. I will keep both, but the S-F would stay if one had to go. I 'got a deal' on my E1B, so they were similar in cost. At 'today's price', the P2D Q5 Premium is a better buy - and seemingly quite well made.

Stainz

 

[StandardBattery]

Haha I can swing a new one for about $100 .

Get it while their hot!

Seriously try the E1B, I'm really amazed at how well the light throws. I like it indoors with the F04 diffuser as well. I use the Z68 tail-cap which I also think really enhances the light. The clicky is very solid and has a positive click to it. I've had it just over 2 months and I've not had any problems with it.

 

[warpdrive]

Alot of folks complain about the lack of knurling on the E1B, say its too slippery, but thats the idea, a small and pocket friendly powerhouse.

The clip also helps with grip.

Exactly, the E1B is exactly that... a go anywhere EDC type light which supplements existing lights, has a versatile beam and brightness setting with a useful low setting, and most importantly, doesn't call attention to itself in your pocket or pack.

 

[IcantC]

Sorry, forgot to update here. I decided to go with the E1B .

Thank you very much everyone for your info and help.

I was tempted looking at the Nitecore Extreme then, but I value the runtime of the E1B on high over the Extreme.

Can't wait to get the light!

 

[superflytnt]

Sorry, forgot to update here. I decided to go with the E1B .

Thank you very much everyone for your info and help.

I was tempted looking at the Nitecore Extreme then, but I value the runtime of the E1B on high over the Extreme.

Can't wait to get the light!

Good call over the Extreme, IMO. About the only thing it has over the E1B is more levels/lower low but I'm not crazy about having to turn the bezel to adjust and I've read plenty of posts of flickering when those bezel threads get a bit dirty. Not to mention all of those sharp edges that snag on your clothing everytime you want to remove the light from your pocket and that cheap switch with it's pretty high failure rate (check this thread, they recommend using a SF body and switch for the Extreme http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=205206 ).


I think that you'll really like your E1B when you get it!

 

[H2Orower]

Sorry, forgot to update here. I decided to go with the E1B .

Thank you very much everyone for your info and help.

I was tempted looking at the Nitecore Extreme then, but I value the runtime of the E1B on high over the Extreme.

Can't wait to get the light!

Wise choice. Fantastic light.

 

[SureAddicted]

The body on the E1B is smooth, not so much slippery. If you've never held a smooth body light, it mite take a little getting used to.

The less moving parts on a flashlight body the more reliable it is IMHO.

 

[IcantC]

So I have had the E1B for a few days now. I like the light very much! Great form factor, output and quality!

Also I tried it with a "dead" CR123, it makes the E1B a single mode light. It works in low only. Not bad as my fear was, what happens when battery runs down? Glad to see it runs in low mode.

Only thing I do not like is, it's cool bluish tint. I would be even ok with green. Works ok outside where I mainly use it, so I guess it is ok.

 

[litetube]

wow, blue tint? Mine always seem to be Greenish.

I ran mine down with the original SF primary in it. Also just to see what it would do. This battery had been depleted to the point where it would not go to high anymore. So I ran it on low next to me. Got 2 hrs on low then it started to flicker. Flickering went on for quite awhile and the light was still usabale for emergency type situations I would think. Then the light finally shut down. But when I let it rest for a few minutes it would turn back on to low and run for a few minutes and start the flickering process again. Seems like it will suck a primary down pretty low. 2 hrs on low til flicker isnt bad i guess?