Eddy
Newly Enlightened
Today I visited my local bike store for a 1.125" steerer tube as a physical sample, to make sure my electronics will really fit inside. I was lucky, right at the top of the scrap metal container there was a 1.125" rigid steel fork that I could carry off for free.
Hammered the star nut all the way thru the tube and out the bottom, ....
....Why not go for the 3rd version right away ?
Because a) Given the time I plan to spend on this every week, it would take very long to complete and b) Feedback from the 1st version improves a later one.
Trying to find some way to contribute to this remarkable driver circuit effort... I looked at bikes and discovered headlight nirvana on a dirt jump bike... (edit: from an electronics vibration perspective it may be better to orient the PWB in the steerer so that one sees planform when looking from the right or the left. That way there is less deflection (but perhaps more shock?) when one lands a jump... or rolls over a piece of gravel.) Marzocchi makes this wonderfull fender that bolts right over the hole in the bottom of the steerer tube. Here are three pictures that show why this is good:
The reason this is on topic is: If the single unit headlight assembly people like (because it reduces interconnect) consists of a fender with the electronics configured as a candle that fits into the steerer from the fork crown side of the steerer... The inner diameter of the aluminum steerer is a little bit smaller for strength reasons where the fork crown attaches. This is a bit different than the ID on the cromoly steerer on the single speed (procured the same way as the benchmark):
Should have data tomorrow on IDs. I am not so enthusiastic about scoring the inside of the steerer by driving the star nut all the way through or setting a new one, as they rarely go in straight without proper tools/fixtures. Especially if it is a star nut for steel steerers in an aluminum steerer! Suprisingly the difference in ID is enough to warrant two different star nuts!
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