Fenix E0 and Luxogen LR12 died :'(

[jnj1033]

Thanks for the heads-up on the design flaw. I've been eyeballing the E0, but maybe I'll hold off for a while. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

 

[Moat]

I replaced the LED in my E0, and noticed the probability of any pressure against the LED causing damage to either the inductor (of which it sits directly above) or the solder joint/PCB traces themselves (the LED legs are not thru-mounted). I ended up shaving a toothpick down to act as a supporting "post" for the LED, and superglued it in place. Works fine!

Filling the circuit cavity with epoxy (via syringe) would have taken care of it, but I'd like to take it back apart in the future. Fenix should probably fill 'em, IMHO.

 

[r0b0r]

Thanks for the heads-up on the design flaw. I've been eyeballing the E0, but maybe I'll hold off for a while. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

I was a total fan of the E0 until discovering this problem

While potentially flawed, the E0 is a popular light with very few complaints of failure. Could this mean I'm overexaggerating the significance? Possibly, but I believe even though the reliability of the E0 seems high based on low failure rates (atleast on CPF) there *is* a problem here that should be addressed.

Considering Moats (and others I'm sure) has the same weakness, I can no longer recommend the E0 until the problem's fixed. It's a bloody shame because I love those little things! Mine got so much use and performed admirably. Output, runtime and size are all perfect for its task (IMO).
My first one got "borrowed" by a friend, and I bought another out of serious withdrawl - I then said he could keep the other one but aslong as it reminds him that he's a *******

Oh, as I promised - Pictures!

 

[jollytoker420]

I just had my EO replaced. My wife went to use it and it just didn't turn on, same brand new cell since day one. Tried everything.... Never got a flicker or anything

 

[r0b0r]

I just had my EO replaced. My wife went to use it and it just didn't turn on, same brand new cell since day one. Tried everything.... Never got a flicker or anything

Hmm... possibly the same problem!

Mine was working flawlessly until when it was on, it flickered a few times.

I thought "hmm... maybe the contacts are dirty" so i unscrewed it, had a look (it was fine) reassembled. It only turned on for a moment and then it was good(bad)night

With my shocking LED luck lately and an abundance of LiI notebook battery packs, I'm going to inject some new life into an old maglite. Incan style

Unfortunately there's only a 3D and 4C (so fairly large) - I'll probably do the lithiums in the 4C and NiMH+reg\var output in the 3D. Thinking that one will be a 3x Cree floodlight - no optics. I would like the output potentiometer to be housed in the tailcap, with a piece of aluminium tubing to avoid protrusions.

I am going to see how much of the 4C I can accomplish tonite. I don't know how much luck I'm going to have sourcing the bulb, though a ROP will be on its way soon. Just want something to play with tonite

Have some CR123s for testing, though I'll get stuck into the laptop packs with the old hacksaw. Damn hard to open! *note to self, don't puncture the cells.....*

I'm not going to bother with updating the reflector\lense at the present, I'll probably just be blowing bulbs anyway (regulator? i dont need no steenkin regulator)

 

[jsr]

Wow, I was planning on getting an E0 in the future sometime as I love my E1. I even recommended it to a friend and his gf, but this a big downer. Conformal coating or epoxying the assembly is not needed, nor is covering the coils for the inductor (most inductor coils are exposed, especially inductors used on lights), but the way the LED is mounted above the coil and as you described, the LED is used to pressure against an o-ring to create the seal resulting in pressure on the top of the coil is a really poor design choice. Also, not mounting the LED's legs in a plated thru-hole is bad...I'd be more concerned on the solder joints than the inductor (which can typically take quite a bit of damage, at least until the coil breaks).
Guess my E1 will stay alone and I'll recommend that to my friend instead.

 

[r0b0r]

Fair enough JSR, now that you mention it the mounting of the LED to the board not being a traditional "through the hole" isn't too encouraging

It's pretty upsetting to me that a light i found so perfect and recommendable turns out to be not as I regarded it. Maybe the Arc-P is worth the extra$ (except for the damn inability to stand on its end, wtf!)

 

[Pumaman]

fyi, the seoul emitter works pretty well in the luxogen with just a little taken off the reflector base.

 

[r0b0r]

fyi, the seoul emitter works pretty well in the luxogen with just a little taken off the reflector base.

Would the Seoul behave with 4.2Vmax rechargeables in the LR12? CR2 primaries are just too bloody expensive, even on fleabay.

That could be an option... cheers

I might even be lazy and go for an easy swap to another lux3 in a funky colour. The thought of messing with that nice aluminium reflector puts me off a bit. Is this required with the XR-E?

I've got the DX Cree on the way and will be ordering a L?D-CE shortly so I'm set in that regard... a seoul would be a nice companion to the Elektrolumens Blaster Jr now that i think of it

 

[Pumaman]

the x-re is a poor match with the luxogen, but the seoul works great. i have one i run on rechargeables, its very bright. i also have another i put more work into here.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=150675

 

[r0b0r]

Cheers Pumaman

Sweet juicy jesus that lr12 looks pretty!!!

I do suppose the physical oddness of the xr-e would make the task more fiddly. Truth be told I wasn't actually aware the Seoul was such a similar package to the lux!

Oh well, now I know

Change of plan... seoul in the LR12 and Cree in the Blaster Jr ^_^
Just need to find \ buy the tiny hex bit that holds the Blaster's retaining thingo on.
Not sure if I actually have a blaster or a knockoff, but it looks damn like what I've seen of them. Perhaps it's an early one. No badging on it though, unsure if that is how they are.
Plenty room to mod 'em and quite easy to access. Nice mag-esque clicky on it too.

Cheers Pumaman, your sexy sexy LR12 has inspired me

 

[EngrPaul]

the LED is used to pressure against an o-ring to create the seal resulting in pressure on the top of the coil is a really poor design choice.

Both of my E0's did not rest on the coil, there was clearance. I suggest the only time the LED hits the coil is when somebody tries to force it out by the LED, and the board is epoxied in. Just like the one in the picture.

http://www.arach.net.au/~grassick/dead_E0_3.jpg

 

[Pumaman]

Cheers Pumaman

Sweet juicy jesus that lr12 looks pretty!!!

I do suppose the physical oddness of the xr-e would make the task more fiddly. Truth be told I wasn't actually aware the Seoul was such a similar package to the lux!

Oh well, now I know

Change of plan... seoul in the LR12 and Cree in the Blaster Jr ^_^
Just need to find \ buy the tiny hex bit that holds the Blaster's retaining thingo on.
Not sure if I actually have a blaster or a knockoff, but it looks damn like what I've seen of them. Perhaps it's an early one. No badging on it though, unsure if that is how they are.
Plenty room to mod 'em and quite easy to access. Nice mag-esque clicky on it too.

Cheers Pumaman, your sexy sexy LR12 has inspired me

:rock:

fyi the mcr18 is very nice but not required, the stock is acceptable.

 

[arty]

I recently got an E1 for a friend and an EO for myself. I like the EO, but now wonder about long-term reliability of these less expensive Fenix lights.

Is the quality and reliability better on the more expensive lights in AAA format? I like the LT2 and LP2 and LP1 - but what about the AAA LOD, LOP, LOP se, and new LOP CE.
Is the construction more robust than on the smaller and less expensive lights?

 

[EngrPaul]

Here's how mine looked after installing a MJLED hi-power ultra white from the sandwich shoppe. I just popped it back out to show what an undamaged board looks like.

See, no epoxy... no damage on removal.

Now my Natural E0 was epoxied. I carefully scraped around the printed circuit board until it was liberated. Pressing really hard on the LED is NOT the way to go.

 

[r0b0r]

Pressing really hard on the LED is NOT the way to go.

And how did you get the impression that I pressed on the LED?

I used a piece of hard steel wire to slowly rotate the PCB from the underside and the board screwed out a few turns (i suppose the board\epoxy engaged the threads). When it didn't seem to be using the using the threads any more, I lightly tapped it a couple times on my desk and the guts dropped out.

I did not push down on the LED.

 

[EngrPaul]

OK, my bad. The common instructions here at CPF have been to push the pill out by the LED. The picture I quoted has the appearance of a pill that's been shoved out by it's LED. That is, an inductor cracked at the top and sheared at the bottom, and an emitter twisted on it's tails, and leftover epoxy.

 

[paulr]

It looks from the E0 picture at Fenix-store that the E0 does not have a lens protecting the led. If the led is exposed to getting pressed against without taking the light apart, this is a not-so-good failure mode. Are comparable circuits like the Arc AAA's potted?

 

[EngrPaul]

Potting improves heat transfer, but makes the device extremely difficult to upgrade.

The reason Fenix puts some epoxy in the head is probably for a more reliable switch.

The Arc AAA is potted and crimped.

 

[r0b0r]

OK, my bad. The common instructions here at CPF have been to push the pill out by the LED. The picture I quoted has the appearance of a pill that's been shoved out by it's LED. That is, an inductor cracked at the top and sheared at the bottom, and an emitter twisted on it's tails, and leftover epoxy.

No worries, I can understand how you came to the conclusion the LED was pushed downwards. I'm glad I didn't read the instructions then

How did you remove the epoxy before removing the head? A pointed scalpel\xacto or something? It
I didnt see much clearance in there so I figured it was threaded as I turned it and it gave. Only after it came out did I discover there was no threading involved, just a little dab of epoxy.
It was not particularly hard to turn the board.

I like the idea of the circuit\led being potted in position for durability, but there's certainly the modability factor which that effectively eliminates.

EngPaul how is your E0 pill held in place now? Do you rely on the pressure of the spring + semithreading of the PCB? Did yours screw out when you disassembled it?

Cheers.