Fenix Hard Anodized finish durability

[Inferno]

Yeah, I got mine for $33 back then... I picked up the L1 P as well, I love it! I was gonna get the L2 P, but MAG Lite came out with the 3 AA Mini MAG LED which I've already attached one of those TAD Gear impact crowns to the head of... it's in my truck, I'll post a pic later. In any case, I'm an EMT, and when it comes to my tools, I know some of you feel the same-- "If it's ugly but it works, then it's just fine."

That doesn't apply to my taste in women though...

 

[AvroArrow]

Yeah we all hope hard anodized coating lasts longer than regular anodizing, but numerous owner testimonies says the H.A. Fenix doesn't hold up to the durability to that of H.A. coating on top brands, such as Surefire, Streamlight and Arc. You can search on this subject and you will find multiple users are reporting the samething.

The Mag Solitaire was mentioned a few times here. It's lacking the better HA coating, but it cost about $10.

Handlobraesing, I already figured this out from reading other posts, which is why I was asking for pictures of used Fenixes so that I could gauge for myself how much the quality of the HA differed from the Fenix to the Arc. The solitaire is not even a consideration, it was just brought up as a common example of a keychain sized light that has type II anodizing, nothing more.

How much does an L0P cost?
...
For something you paid $47.95(now selling for $34) for,you would expect it to be at Arc like quality, huh?

And just to clear things up, I specifically mentioned the L0P SE several times in my previous posts, which is currently selling for $35.10 shipped (after the time limited coupon discount) from 4sevens. That is what I am considering as a replacement for my old Arc AAA-STD. The alternative was the new Arc-AAA-P for $39.95+s/h. The original L0P may have sold for $47.95 when it was first released (I did not buy one), but that is not what I am going to purchase. Just for reference, I bought my Arc-AAA standard for $22.xx just before Xmas in 2003 (it was later replaced by Arc due to a problem).

I've also written several times before in this thread that I already know that it's not up to Arc quality HA and that's not what I'm questioning, nor is that what I'm expecting. I just wanted to see the difference in durability between the two so that I can judge for myself if it's worth it.

Pumaman, I know the E0 is the direct "class" competitor to the Arc-AAA, but the L0P-SE is "cost" competitor to the new AAA-P. But even that isn't really fair because one is a variable output LuxI, and the other is a fixed output 5mm Nichia. A better fit and finish build and HA, but still a 5mm Nichia.

TENMMIKE, I've drooled over the Miller Mod Arc-AAA, but my wallet begs to differ. I could literally buy 3 L0P-SEs for the price of 1 MM Arc-AAA.

 

[Lit Up]

If I could get a keychain light for cheaper becuase it skips all that "HA anodize" thus saving cost, I'll do it everytime.
I'm not sure if coating a light in truckbed Rhino liner would even hold up on a keychain.

Besides, I don't mind the scratches, it gives it character. It makes the light different from every other one, it makes it yours. No matter how small the light, if it's thought of as wanting to keep a shelf queen appearance, it has no place on a keychain or EDC for that matter.

 

[Casual Flashlight User]

I'm trying to decide between the Kydex case from LiteMania or the nylon case from AW.

I use a "Concealco SF100" holster. Fantastic quality.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/120894

http://www.concealco.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ACL&Product_Code=SF100_SF100A&Category_Code=053SFH

Any colour you like (so long as it's black or brown).


CFU

 

[TENMMIKE]

thats a damn good idea,even worth inquiring about, and im sure it would last edc

I'm not sure if coating a light in truckbed Rhino liner would even hold up on a keychain.

 

[meat]

I think the hard anodizing on Fenix, Arc and Surefire holds up the same, but there are some factors to keep in mind.

Keys will scratch off any anodizing eventually, especially on the corners and edges.

The anodizing seems to hold up better on round surfaces rather than sharp edges. The Arc AAA and the E0 are both round and will probably hold up better than the L0P, L1P and the Fenix's that are hexagonal shaped. This may be why Surefire changed from square sections to round sections.

Fenix's natural anodizing will not show scratches as bad as the black will.

 

[Lit Up]

thats a damn good idea,even worth inquiring about, and im sure it would last edc

Hey, build a ship and see if it floats. Let us know if you try it.

 

[TigerhawkT3]

I second that, Lit Up. If people can coat entire truck beds in the stuff, the cost to coat a single flashlight would be negligible.

 

[Lit Up]

I second that, Lit Up. If people can coat entire truck beds in the stuff, the cost to coat a single flashlight would be negligible.

They have some standard colors, but also state they can match just about any color.
http://www.rhinolinings.com/RL/main/

I figure a bottle the size of a model paint bottle should be sufficient for a keychain light with some left over. Doubtful you could buy a bottle of it that small though. Maybe get a quart and do a couple D cell maglites too.

 

[yaesumofo]

Yet another Fenix quality question. It seems like this question and others which are closely related are being asked more and more often out here.

Handlobraesing,

TENMMIKE, I've drooled over the Miller Mod Arc-AAA, but my wallet begs to differ. I could literally buy 3 L0P-SEs for the price of 1 MM Arc-AAA.

This is pretty funny. I look at this exactly the opposite. First of all why in the world would you do with 3 LOP-se flashlights. Why in the world would you spend good money on 3 of them?
I say that the money spent on three of those is much better spent on a single MM ARC-AAA or even a surefire E1L.
Much better values unless you like cheap lights with finishes that wear quickly and electronics that look like they were made in a bath of solder by amateur soldering iron operators.

The bottom line here is the finish on Fenix flashlights is not durable. It is the thinnest anodizing that they can get away with. This equates directly to minimizing costs. If they cheap out on the finish what do you think they are doing on the emitters and drivers?
Keep in mind that certain ASIAN countries specialize in copying western technology. Reproducing things like emitters is done with ease. Lowering costs even more.
While I doubt that companies like SUREFIRE actually have their machine work done here in the USA. The finish (anodizing), assembly and QC is done here. Yes it costs more. the quality you get is more than worth it though.
Personally I will buy SureFire/HDS/McLuxIII PD's,/MrBulk/Tnc/ARC/...Even Jil, before I buy Fenix flashlights.
Yaesumofo

 

[Lit Up]

If Surefire would produce a 1xAA LED that gets around 2 hours brightness/4 hours total, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

There's just some of us who don't really care for the expense of the CR123 types and there's not exactly an abundance of 1xAA light makers out there who make twisty versions or a button on the body itself. I don't care much for tail end clickies. I've yet to see a maunfacturer on here who hasn't had problems with those.

 

[Casual Flashlight User]

If Surefire would produce a 1xAA LED that gets around 2 hours brightness/4 hours total, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

You and every other denizen of this forum I suspect.

CFU

 

[AvroArrow]

I'm not sure if coating a light in truckbed Rhino liner would even hold up on a keychain.
<snip>
No matter how small the light, if it's thought of as wanting to keep a shelf queen appearance, it has no place on a keychain or EDC for that matter.

There's a cheap coating alternative, Heat Shrink tubing from an Electronics parts store (Radio Shack or equivalent). After reading about it in a thread in the HDS forum, I just recently bought some 1-3/16" HS tubing (comes in black, red and white) for my U60GT (for the tail end). It was like $3.50 CAD for 1 meter (~3.28ft) worth. The L0P is spec'ed at 0.55" diameter, so any HS tubing just a bit bigger than that should work for it and the Arc-AAA (0.5" diameter). Wonder why I didn't think of that before. Some of the smaller diameter HS tubing even comes in a transparent version.

And you're right, mint shelf queen and keychain EDC are mutually exclusive. Still, I wanted to know if a 1 year old Fenix on a keychain would be half black half silver instead of mostly black.

CFU, that Concealco SF100 does look nice, but I'm not really into the leather holster thing, just a personal taste thing. Thanks for the link though.

TENNMIKE, I think the HS tubing would probably work just as well, and easier for me to do.

Keys will scratch off any anodizing eventually, especially on the corners and edges.

The anodizing seems to hold up better on round surfaces rather than sharp edges. The Arc AAA and the E0 are both round and will probably hold up better than the L0P, L1P and the Fenix's that are hexagonal shaped. This may be why Surefire changed from square sections to round sections.

Fenix's natural anodizing will not show scratches as bad as the black will.

That's exactly what I've learned from this thread. Too bad the L0P-SE doesn't come in Natural HA.

This is pretty funny. I look at this exactly the opposite. First of all why in the world would you do with 3 LOP-se flashlights. Why in the world would you spend good money on 3 of them?
I say that the money spent on three of those is much better spent on a single MM ARC-AAA or even a surefire E1L.
Much better values unless you like cheap lights with finishes that wear quickly and electronics that look like they were made in a bath of solder by amateur soldering iron operators.

The reason for me to buy 3 L0P-SEs is 1 for me, 2 for family members. This is a case of Quantity > Quality for me. I'm not arguing which is the standalone superior light (the MM-Arc-AAA is), but for a value perspective (bang for buck) I believe the L0P-SE wins, crappy finish and all. And I have to agree with the comment about electronics finishing. I just looked the battery contact side of the circuit of my L1P, L2P and HDS U60GT... no contest, but then there shouldn't be considering the U60GT cost 4x the L1P and they're a totally different class of light from each other.

Personally I will buy SureFire/HDS/McLuxIII PD's,/MrBulk/Tnc/ARC/...Even Jil, before I buy Fenix flashlights.
Yaesumofo

I'd like to do the same, if only I could afford it all (I did splurge on a U60GT after they went on sale for $135, which is the most that I've ever spent on a single light).

Avro

woohoo! My 100th post after almost 3 years (over 3 years if you count the 1/2 year of lurking prior to registering).

 

[Casual Flashlight User]

Avro, if leather ain't your thing you could try and track down a "rip-offs" CO-192...designed for the HDS.

http://www.ripoffs.com/datasheets/co192/co192.html

Very nice products by all accounts...I think brightguy.com can still source them...


CFU

 

[Inferno]

On the topic of coating the light, Dupli-Color maes a spray-on truckbed liner that you can find at most auto shops, but I doubt it would last for long (on my light at least). Maybe try some of that Plastidip stuff they use on tool handles? You could make your light red, yellow, blue...