fenix LD 10?

LEDBE
I have a Fenix LD10 R4 and am happy with it so far, not sure if it would really be considered the Best/Brighest AA (I don't think the light in the link would even be close to a Fenix) I have seen many AA lights that don't work reliably. so in this you really do "Get what you pay for" This is simply my opinion based on observation of the performace of various inexpensive AA lights.

Cheers
BR
 
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The Fenix is orders of magnitude better than the other light you linked to, in just about every way.


"best" is relatively subjective. Can you describe the kind of uses you think you'll need, etc?
 
Please don't misunderstand me, I like my LD10, but as stated above "Best" is really subjective and really depends alot on what you plan to use the light for, if you will use basic batteries of high performance batteries, etc. there are alot of variables involved not the lease will be personal preferences. (For many years I thought Mag's were the best, until I got my 1st SureFire 6P 15 years ago, had alot of SF and they are great lights, now I am experimenting with other lights, Got some Maratacs, My LD10 and will get others (this list does include the "batttey crushers" either)

Cheers
BR
 
I would have said the Fenix LD10 is a great light in the past.

I recently purchased one to add to my EDC lineup. I have carried a Fenix L1D for a couple of years and it worked pretty good until a few months ago. It started becoming unpredictable on all modes other than turbo. The light would flicker in intensity.

I picked up a Nitecore D10 Tribute to replace the L1D and it has been great. The D10 UI took a while to get comfortable with and I picked up the LD10 R4 just in case.

To my horror, it has the same flicker problem the L1D does! :shakehead

If I unscrew and reconnect the threads, it seems to settle down but this problem has caused me to lose faith in it as an EDC light.

To it's credit, the Fenix LD10 R4 is almost as bright on a primary alkaline AA as the Nitecore D10 is on a Li-On.
 
Snipe315 said:
I would have said the Fenix LD10 is a great light in the past.

I recently purchased one to add to my EDC lineup. I have carried a Fenix L1D for a couple of years and it worked pretty good until a few months ago. It started becoming unpredictable on all modes other than turbo. The light would flicker in intensity.

I picked up a Nitecore D10 Tribute to replace the L1D and it has been great. The D10 UI took a while to get comfortable with and I picked up the LD10 R4 just in case.

To my horror, it has the same flicker problem the L1D does! :shakehead

If I unscrew and reconnect the threads, it seems to settle down but this problem has caused me to lose faith in it as an EDC light.
Click to expand...


Your problem sounds like the same I am having with a LD10 I have and the problem is a bad switch. I cannot get the thread retaining ring out to replace the switch no matter what I do, it is the most stubborn ring I've ever seen.
 
the BEST single AA would probably be McGizmo's Haiku, i dont own one myself though.

if you want bright and compact, i would suggest going with a single cr123a light.

i would go with either the quark AA, nitecore D10, and jetbeam jet1 pro over the fenix LD10. these all support li-ion which will make it noticeably brighter than using alkaline, nimh, or energizer lithium.
 
Yes, I think maybe the best choose is Fenix LD10,the following are the feathers:

Cree XR-E LED (Q5) with life span of 50,000 hours
• Two modes (6 types) of output, generation/turbo selected by turning the bezel (patented)
General Mode: 9 lumens (34hrs) -> 47 lumens (6hrs) ->94 lumens (2.2hrs) -> SOS
Turbo Mode: 120 lumens (1.5hrs) -> Strobe
• Digitally regulated output - maintains constant brightness
• Uses one 1.5V AA ( Alkaline, Ni-MH, Lithium ) batteries,inexpensive and widely available
• 100mm (Length) x 21.5mm (Diameter)
• Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
• Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
• 54-gram weight (excluding batteries)
• Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard
• Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
• Push-button tail cap switch
• Capable of standing up securely on a flat surface to serve as a candle
• Anti-roll, slip-resistant body design
• Included accessories: holster, lanyard, body clip, two spare o-rings, and a rubber switch boot

:welcome:
 
It's 145 lumen and made in China, the D10 has it owns problems reported by many members and my own experience the Piston Drive UI seems to work properly when it wants to and if you want a light to turn on easily and change modes easily how and when you want it to I would stay away from it, this is only my opinion but it's been reported many times by other members also.

If you want a simple to use reliable AA light with multiple modes that is plenty bright search CPF for the 4sevens Quark AA Tactical and Zebralight SC50.

Quark AA- http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_306&products_id=1655

Zebralight SC50- http://illuminationgear.com/184082.html
 
Is a LD10 flickering myth about to be born?

I have had nothing of that sort with mine, its a great light in LD10 and with the 2xAA extension it also rocks.

Its the yardstick by which all other multimode lights are judged.
 
diesel did you read my post #11?

The D10 sounds like a light that is not a light your going to want to depend on for years of abuse on a railroad and yes it is made in China.

Is made in the US a priority and if so will you consider a different battery you could get a made in the US Surefire. That is as reliable and as tough as you can get although you will need to use CR123 batteys. Sure they cost more but if you plan to use it for a couple years without replacement it would be a good investment.
 
jhc37013 said:
It's 145 lumen and made in China, the D10 has it owns problems reported by many members and my own experience the Piston Drive UI seems to work properly when it wants to and if you want a light to turn on easily and change modes easily how and when you want it to I would stay away from it, this is only my opinion but it's been reported many times by other members also.

If you want a simple to use reliable AA light with multiple modes that is plenty bright search CPF for the 4sevens Quark AA Tactical and Zebralight SC50.

Quark AA- http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_306&products_id=1655

Zebralight SC50- http://illuminationgear.com/184082.html
Click to expand...

Both ZL and Quarks have their issues too.
 
Production flashlights that are made in the U.S. include Surefire, Mag-lite, and Inova. And from what I have read, US made Inovas are soon to be a thing of the past (except the Inforce lights). There may be other lights made in the US, but most brands are made overseas.
 
i have a nitecore d10, advantages over the ld10 are size/weight (it is smaller/lighter) and mainly the superior low mode (a lot lower than the ld10 which is very useful)

however, having experience of both lights, i would choose the ld10 over the d10 for myself and recommend it to others over the d10 with no hesitation. the piston drive is ok and mine offers nice tactile feedback whilst being very quiet but the ramping is a pretty useless (and annoying) gimmick so if you do get a d10 get the sp version

if you go for the fenix ld10, don't feel that the q5 version is outdated, it is still outstanding and my buddies q5 ld10 kicks the *** of my r2 nitecore d10 for output
 
Woods Walker said:
Both ZL and Quarks have their issues too.
Click to expand...
There isn't a single manufacturer that doesn't have issues. Dig up the Surefire and Fenix clickie failure polls and prepare to be surprised.

EDIT:And to the OP. BEST is a very subjective word. Depends entirely on what you are going to use the light for. The model you picked isn't bad, but that particular version is a limited edition collectors version and not the regular version(4sevens doesn't carry Nitecore lights anymore and those are just rest stock). But it won't be a shelf queen as long as you don't treat it like one.
 
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I'm sorry but I just can't recommend a Fenix LD10 over a Nitecore D10 at this time.

I have both sitting side by side as I write this and there is no comparision.

I hit the piston on my brand new Nitecore D10 Tribute and it came on. No flickering at all on any level. I was able to switch from the lowest mode up to the highest in about a second. It worked as advertised and expected.

I then turned on my brand new Fenix LD10 R4. The low mode came on with no problems at all. I waited a second or two and then went to the next higher mode. The light started flickering right away. :ohgeez: It continued to flicker when I went to the highest mode (non turbo).

When I tried this again, both lights worked as designed with neither flickering. The Fenix didn't show the problem for several dozen activations but there is NO WAY I would trust it to perform correctly when I really need it. The Fenix L1D I have has the same problem as the LD10. In fact, it (L1D) has actually messed up twice when I used it in public to assist someone. I had to put it on Turbo mode for it to be stable. It really proved untrustworthy at that point and I purchased the D10 and later the LD10 because of it. I hoped the LD10 would prove more reliable but it has actually been worse (since the L1D didn't start have this problem for almost a year).

:(

I'm no Nitecore fanboy (I only own one at this time) but it has proven to be far more reliable at this point.

This isn't a cost or price issue. I've got half a dozen Surefires that I love (E1 Outdoorsman x2, E2DL, G2, 6P, etc) and the only reason I don't usually EDC them is the battery type. I prefer using an 1xAA light for EDC use since I never feel that I'll have a problem using it too much and not be able to find another battery (I've never seen a CR123 at a gas station quicky mart).
 
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