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Haiku Batteries. Which Do You Use? Primaries or Rechargables?

McGizmo

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....

Believe I have read that Don doesn't use rechargeable batteries either. Can't recall off-hand why not.

For the longest time my issue was the safety of Li-Ion cells and lack of UL or CE approved batteries or well recognized manufactures providing these batteries as aftermarket items for use in devices like flashlights. Ironically there seems to have been more reported "events" of battery failure in lithium primary cells than in the rechargeable Li-Ion and other similar chemistries. Personally I have so many flashlights siting around that using rechargeables in them would be a bit confusing and unnecessary since they don't get used much at all.

However recently I have taken the plunge and do use RCR123's in the few lights I do use often and carry. I use protected cells as the converters in my lights do not have a low voltage shut off. My laptops, cameras and phones all use Li-Ion batteries and I can't imagine switching to a primary cell even if it were available. For an every day use device a rechargeable battery makes a lot of sense, IMHO. For a backup or emergency device that sits until such time it is needed, I think a good, not activated, primary cell is the best choice.
 

DTF

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The most interesting implementation of Lithium batteries that I have seen is with the high end Nikon cameras: eg D700/D4. When checking the battery, it reports the percent charge, the number of shots taken since the last charge, plus the "age" of the battery. The age is rated from 0 to 4. Years or what, can't recall. But this is the type of information needed by a pro when using this type of battery. Not just the percentage charge, but the history of the battery, too. Is this battery reaching it's estimated end-of-life? With primaries, it's possible to go out with a new set with 100% confidence that they'll work. With rechargeables, at the beginning everything should be fine but how about some years down the road and hundreds of charges? Is there a way of determining the "health" of an old rechargeable? What is the expected life span of these rechargeables? Is the life span solely determined by the number of charging cycles or is there a shelf life?
 

TweakMDS

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Afaik the Nikon battery "age" is just encoded in the battery chip. Those "smart" batteries have a few more pins than just a positive and a negative side.
It would be a good practice to keep some sort of date on your batteries though. Or any form of identification if you have a lot.

I agree with Don on the usage; I try not too have too many different Li-Ion rechargeable because some of them are bound to be forgotten in a closet somewhere. Only lights that I edc (and/or use, not necessarily related) frequently are allowed to have a lithium ion inside them. The rest would be empty or using lithium primaries.
 

archimedes

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Don. I assume that both your present 3S and 6V LE will also take IMR batteries though they do not have a low voltage shut off. Is my assumption correct?

With less capacity and less protection, and since these LE are not high current draw, I am curious as to the reason to use IMR here ? ... :thinking:
 

BenChiew

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I use mainly rcr123 until recently a friend explained that using IMR is better. According to his explanation, the chemistry on an IMR is deem to be safer and less susceptible to venting.
Plus with its ability to serve up the current draw, it actually gives better runtime despite the lower mah rating.
It is supposed to have less sag.
 

archimedes

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In a single cell setup, I think that the safety advantages of a protection circuit (for ICR) likely trump IMR's somewhat greater thermal stability (for most reasonable use environments), in this particular situation (driver with moderate current draw).

... and for a two cell (series) setup, using unprotected rechargeable batteries would make me especially concerned ... :poof:
 
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McGizmo

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Hi guys,
I consider many of you to be the experts on the RCR123 and the various chemistries now available. I purchased a few of the AW protected cells in the RCR123, 18650 and 14500 sizes and know very little about them. The actual compatibility with my lights is a function of size and voltage but no protection is offered the battery by virtue of being monitored by the converters.
 

jkxs

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Sorry for digging up an old thread, but do you guys have recommended AW batteries/chargers for the McGizmo Haiku XM-L in 6V?

Thanks!
 

GSDnPWC

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Wow, didn't know there would be twice the run time. That's a big difference. And I just caught my love typo. Continence! Hahaha. You know what I mean. ;)
Thanks for the info!
 

BenChiew

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Wow, didn't know there would be twice the run time. That's a big difference. And I just caught my love typo. Continence! Hahaha. You know what I mean. ;)
Thanks for the info!

Yup, convenience was what you meant.

The CR123 at 3.2 v have 1500mA of juice whilst the RCR123 / 16340 at 4.2volts only have 750mA. Depending on your charger maybe even less.
Though there is a voltage difference, as a ballpark, lets call it just under double the runtime. Good choice.
 

GSDnPWC

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I knew there was the voltage difference which made them better for super high output (Like the tri-edc from Mac) but I didn't know there was such the difference in mah. I'm already learning a lot!
 

BenChiew

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I knew there was the voltage difference which made them better for super high output (Like the tri-edc from Mac) but I didn't know there was such the difference in mah. I'm already learning a lot!

Not really, you are not going to get any output difference as it is regulated by the converter. Just that at a higher voltage, the power draw will be lesser.
But the variance will be small. Something like 550mAh and 650mAh.
Although the primary looked like it has got double the juice but you will not get exactly double the runtime due to the difference in power draw at the 2 different voltages.
 

pjandyho

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I knew there was the voltage difference which made them better for super high output (Like the tri-edc from Mac) but I didn't know there was such the difference in mah. I'm already learning a lot!
Just an FYI. No other batteries other than the red AW's IMR could safely handle the extreme draw of Mac's Tri-EDC. There could be other brand of IMR batteries out there but I am not sure where to find them or if they even exist at all. Just saying in case you are an owner of the Tri-EDC, or an owner to be. Anyway, the high output of the Tri-EDC is cool to impress others but in all honesty I find myself loving the Haiku more because it is a much more practical light for EDC purposes. The Haiku really is a good balance of adequate power and good runtime, and not to mention the lower low output as compared to the Tri-EDC.
 

GSDnPWC

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Just an FYI. No other batteries other than the red AW's IMR could safely handle the extreme draw of Mac's Tri-EDC. There could be other brand of IMR batteries out there but I am not sure where to find them or if they even exist at all. Just saying in case you are an owner of the Tri-EDC, or an owner to be. Anyway, the high output of the Tri-EDC is cool to impress others but in all honesty I find myself loving the Haiku more because it is a much more practical light for EDC purposes. The Haiku really is a good balance of adequate power and good runtime, and not to mention the lower low output as compared to the Tri-EDC.

Agreed. I think the outputs and run times of the haiku lend itself to being a much more practical edc light.
 

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