HDS Systems EDC # 19

[the.Mtn.Man]

I'm actually getting ready to break, or attempt to do so, an HDS light. Have spoken with Henry about this for some time, and my plan is to film it and make it into a video. It took some time for me to learn the video editing thing so one would not have to watch hours of something that could be summed up in a few minutes. I guess we shall see how it goes. On winter break after my anatomy, physiology, and histology class ends this Wednesday then the plan is to get it done before SHOT Show. I have some interesting things in mind that probably have never been done to, nor will be done again, to a flashlight.

As I recall, you managed to get the job done with a high-powered rifle, but that's a rather extreme scenario.

 

[Lithium466]

My HDS rotary is one of the lowest output lights i have, and it means nothing to me...............it is certainly one of the best lights i have. Lumens are a small part for me these days in a light, beam quality and temp along with UI and form factor far outreach the lumen race. Needless to say i have that part covered anyway, but for EDC, the HDS is up there with the haiku as all time classics.

I can only relate to that, less than 200 lumens is more than enough for my use, and I favor the form factor an UI over the lumen number

 

[AVService]

I can only relate to that, less than 200 lumens is more than enough for my use, and I favor the form factor an UI over the lumen number

My Golden Dragon 120 still is one of the greatest lights that I have ever carried!
That combination of pure HDS and throwy emitter is just about perfect most of the time.

 

[Lithium466]

Imagine high CRI warm throwy beam?
That was my former GD120 (modded)! I miss "her"

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

As I recall, you managed to get the job done with a high-powered rifle, but that's a rather extreme scenario.

Yes, the battery tube can not take a .355 diameter 124 grain round at 1500 feet per second, so I don't need to repeat that one. I have a few other ideas in mind though

 

[archimedes]

.... I don't need to repeat that one....

... but, will it blend ?

 

[derfyled]

... but, will it blend ?

I don't want to see that. Poor blender...

 

[archimedes]

I don't want to see that. Poor blender...

:laughing:

 

[Taxman]

For the CR123 and 16340 powered HDS lights out there, what batteries are you guys using?

Henry sent my new light with a Duracell ultra lithium CR123, but I have protected (Keeppower, Nitecore), and unprotected (Efest and AW) 16340 to choose from. I wish he made an 18350 tube for these.

 

[Lithium466]

I am using some RCR most of the time, I have plenty (pretty much all the big brands, whatever was on sale), protected (Nitecore, AW, Efest, Wolf Eyes, Jetbeam, Olight, Eagletac...) and unprotected (Efest, AW) without second thought. Runtime on high with burst enabled is around 90/95 min, not much variation between brands, maybe +- 10 min max but in real use it's unnoticeable for me.

I also keep some primary on hand, always practical. I to look forward to 18350 or 18500 battery tubes.

Edit : I talked about the runtime in max mode, because that's the only one I compared with different batteries. In real use, primary will give you less runtime on max, but much longer runtime in various modes. Plus the primaries will provide you with much more warning that the batteries are exhausted, and longer runtime in low modes before the light switches off.

I consider handy using rechargeable and switching every day or every two days, so I can always leave home with a fully charged battery.

 

[Hondo]

The primary will run longest, unless you use max most of the time, then an IMR type is a little better (edit: that may still not be right, the IMR will definitely outrun the other rechargeables on max, though, despite lower mAh capacity - there it is, Lithium found the plot below, IMR holds max longer than even primary). Both rechargeables are fine, you will get warnings from the light before you can trash an unprotected cell. No risk of damaging anything but the cell if you keep going after step-downs, but he allows it for safety reasons. Better to kill a cell than leave the user in the dark on a ledge in a cave! Just leave the cell out for a full minute when changing so the light does a soft reset and re-detects the cell chemestry.

I use mostly unprotected RCR123's (when I don't have an extended tube on). But a couple of mine have primaries, just to rotate the stock a bit. Not working, by the way, because they last so long in the HDS .

Damn you're fast, Lith!

 

[Taxman]

Lith, Hondo, great advice. thank you both.

So Hondo you're saying if I take a unprotected cell past it's normal voltage floor, becuase of how dark that cave is, when I do swap out the old cell for a new one I need to wait a minute or so so it will recognize the new cell as a new cell?

 

[Lithium466]

I shamelessly watch CPF at work, sometimes when things are slow.

Definitely, if you're looking for runtime, 18650 is the way to go.

PS : I also noticed some rechargeable have their protection tripping before the lights goes to the lowest mode, like my Efest gold 850mAh (which is a nice number on a 550mAh battery )


Edit : due to the chemistry recognition system, if you put a primary after an exhausted RCR, you have to wait 60s (do a soft reset), unless the light will still believe it is running on a depleted cell

 

[Taxman]

In real use, primary will give you less runtime on max, but much longer runtime in various modes. Plus the primaries will provide you with much more warning that the batteries are exhausted, and longer runtime in low modes before the light switches off.

can you explain why the primary provides longer runs in other than max modes? Is it due to resistance?

 

[Lithium466]

Probably, and also maybe because the boost circuit can only boost the voltage that much, when the cell can't sustain the high drain anymore, it switches to a lower level.

You can have a look at the runtime graphs in this review : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...xecutive-with-new-2xAA-and-18680(18650)-tubes

(unfortunately no runtime graphs with burst enabled)

 

[Taxman]

Wow the IMR RCR123 totally tanks after 30 minutes and drops dead after 33 min. It kept the boost up past the CR123's initial drop from boost, but the CR123 has defined measured step downs way out to an hour and some minutes. That's exactly what you said lithium, longer on times in the lower modes. I guess the rechargeable cells just dump it all on the front end.

 

[Hondo]

Right, total energy stored (area under the curves) is best with primaries. But they can't sustain very high currents when they approach depletion, like the rechargeables can, especially the IMR. Not as big of a difference as between alkaline cells and NiMH's, though. Alkalines actually have a lot of energy, but most of it can only be extracted at very low discharge rates.

In that cave, I would be working under my back-up, of course, but if they had all failed, and you want to try to change a battery by feel in under 60 seconds, it will still work. But like Lithium said, it would then assume that you had put in another near dead RCR. May not want to give you high modes, but it will still "Get You Home!"

 

[Lithium466]

I have not tested that part in depth, but I think that if you put a primary just after removing an exhausted RCR, at first it will give you low levels only, then it will slowly ramp up and revert to normal use. -to be confirmed-

With a Novatac, due to the manual detection system (from RCR to primary), if you remove a RCR then put a primary without doing the reset, it won't light up at all (at least mine don't). If you put a RCR coming from a primary, it will be recognized immediately.

The HDS tiny brain is smarter and can't be fooled that easily! Actually I'll test and report when my light arrive, if you want.

 

[AVService]

Here it is with the clip on it!

Kind of looks like a WWII German Hand Grenade.

I like that.

 

[ven]

Very cool, after not being too sure i would not have it any other way now