HDS? Vs novatak? what can he bring? us a killer app?

[yaesumofo]

Wow what wonderful ideas.
I really like the idea of incorporating a tiny 1R windows which gives us access to the setup of the light wire free and radio free (both can be hassles under covert conditions) to be able to set the light up next to my laptop and have them talk would be a major breakthrough. the technology is there sort of with a serial device in the lights already. using IR would eliminate the wires. and give the end user a friendly. If you don't have an IR port on your computer now they are very easily bought for less than $10.00 in the form of a usb dongle. The one other reason I like IR so much is that many laptops have this as a standard and so to palms and pocket PC...as do many phones. half the time you don't even notice it is there until you need it.
Just a thought.

the use of a hall effect sensor if for no other purpose but to LOVK the light or maybe lock out a turbo mode or well I don't know. the use of hall effect sensors is not a new idea I own a light made for use with bikes which is at least 10 years old. hall effect when used with a knob or just a simple on off or lock could be useful especially if it were able to make it key like in that only a specific "magnetic key" would activate the feature.
OK? crazy I know.
yaesumofo

 

[Gatsby]

I like the HDS interface, FWIW (despite the 250 clicks - all I really wanted to change was the remember last brightness and momentary on functions) although since I had an Arc4+ I might just be used to it. But the 4 levels work perfectly well and after I get my Seoul mod it will have a lot more light and still have a long runtime.

What really appeals to me is something I just got in a Peak Pacific, which was a highly modular system that allows me to use several different battery pack configurations which change the runtime/output/form factor of the light depending on my uses. Pocket carry - no problem I use the CR2 body. Long runtime, the AA body with a lithium. A lot more light - the CR2 or even better, the 2xAAA. Or just stick with the smaller 1XAA for cheap pocket carry. I had an old TNC AA light that was awesome but a little dim - the Pacific is small, versatile and very very efficient. So I'd like to see some battery options, particularly with an HDS size light a 2xAA pack (with either lithium or NiMH options for cheap light) would be outstanding - it was something I always liked about the old Arc LS.

I'm not likely to connect it to my computer - but I do like being able to buy one light that I can configure for different needs - camping trip, around the house home projects, pocket carry, etc.. as I don't like owning 100 different lights (been there already and my mantra these days is to simplify my life!).

 

[txmatt]

Ideally, light programming would be done via PC and not numerous presses of one button. IR is a neat idea. The IR photodiode could be placed in the reflector somewhere thus not compromising watertightness. Or might some power LED's respond to IR sufficiently to not need another diode? Another connectivity option would be contact points similar to what some rechargeable lights have, and a collar which fits around the light, makes contact with these points, and has a small wire pigtail ending in a USB connector.

I'd prefer a fixed number of settings (maybe 5), chosen by a selector ring with stops at either end, and a clickie for on/off. For max flexibility, though, an infinitely rotating ring with no stops would allow more options. A ring without fixed positions would allow programming options such as turn on in last used mode, turn on in low and ramp up, turn on in high and ramp down, regardless of where the ring is positioned at turn-on.

Programmability could include "infinite" ouput intensity adjustment, user-chosen number and intensity of brightness levels, various signalling/strobe modes, sleep-timer mode, etc.

There should also be a field-reset that reverts to some default programming such that if the light freaks out or the program loaded is inappropriate or confusing, you can get back to a simple program.

I prefer standard batteries like AA but understand most lights in this class are CR123/LiIon lights.

With all the whiz-bang suggestions above, though, a simple UI like the U2, even with fixed brightness settings, is really all that I really need in a flashlight.

 

[JimmyB]

The only thing I'd really like to see is a smaller form. I like the bombproof design of the EDC and would love to see it's smaller brother without compromising on features. I really hope Henry doesn't go the other way and make it bigger/more bombproof like the proto from Shotshow 07 (EDC Heavy Duty).

Well, while we're dreaming here..........You know how the LED just barely glows on the EDC right before it shuts down? I'd love to see this as a feature for a locator, kind of like tritium. I'd still keep the flashing locator for outdoor use but I think it's just a bit too much for nightstand duty.

I have an U60XRGT and a P120. I don't find the UI on the P120 significantly better than the HDS. I'd like to see a more intuitive UI on Henry's new light, though I'm not sure that's possible given the single button input.

 

[ElectronGuru]

I've been reading up (reference = CPF) on brightness perception, most particularly the need for output to double to "see" a difference. Ironically, we think of it as mathematics because we describe it that way (powers of 2) but in reality it seems to be the nature of human perception (the same holds true with temperature, speed, time, etc). Whatever the why, the basic output level design rule wants to be, start at the highest setting and cut it in half until you reach the desired lowest setting. For example:

40 max lumens = 5 usable levels
40 > 20 > 10 > 5 > 2.5

80 max lumens = 6 usable levels
80 > 40 > 20 > 10 > 5 > 2.5

160 max lumens = 7 usable levels
160 > 80 > 40 > 20 > 10 > 5 > 2.5


But I'm finding it hard to swallow that 2.5 > 5 feels the same as 50 > 100 with the same emitter.

 

[Chronos]

I have one more item to add. A killer advancement would be to bring the beam characteristics of the 27LT head into a 1" style reflector or optic. I love the beam on my S27-PD so much; I just wish the head could be smaller.

THINK: BIG REFLECTOR CHARACTERISTICS WITH A LITTLE REFLECTOR OR OPTIC.

I agree Goatzizzle. Create a 1" reflector with the same proportions as the McR27/McR45. This is nearly the ideal beam for a reflector-based light.

- Also make it waterproof
- Put it through stringent durability testing
- Release a series of bodies to add additional battery selections, and support 1x123 AND 2x123 setups a la' the original HDS
- Adjustable beam from flood to throw
- Offer a version with coating more durable than HA
- Offer a durable, usable, removable clip
- Include the ability to attach a lanyard to the light without the clip

I look for lights that I can take with me on hikes and climbs, which are often at night (or last from day to night). I want/need a light that I can trust will work, no matter what the conditions. I want multi levels of light. I want the ability to use a lanyard (especially in tough conditions). I also like different cell options in case I want to use rechargeables (around the house) or primaries (in the boonies).

- Make a Strider collaborative version- tiger stripes or digicamo included.

 

[HDS_Systems]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I suspect most of you will be pleasantly surprised by what we have in the works.

Henry.

 

[ElectronGuru]

Just don't come out with it to soon Henry, I need time to save up!

 

[lightplay22]

Its alright if you hurry Henry, a little more debt don't scare me at all! Even if they cut my electric service off, I would still have good lighting LOL

 

[yaesumofo]

I look forwared to even more improvements to the orignal HDS design.
Yaesumofo

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I suspect most of you will be pleasantly surprised by what we have in the works.

Henry.

 

[ElectronGuru]

'nother thought...

We currently have to choose between good "throw" and good "spread." I don't yet know what makes a setup good for either, but is it possible to engineer one light that shifts between them and does both well?

 

[yaesumofo]

We pretty much do have to make that choice. This is a compromise. There are lots of them.
Beam quality's are amongst the most common choices which need to be made.
There are lights which have Leds and Regulated Hotwires (A2) there is a nice hot spot with some throw and a short range not very bright wider angle light.
The New light which Don is working on the lunasol is a light which is attempting to incorporate wide and tight into the same light.
This is not technology we will see any time soon from Novatac or HDS for that matter.
IMHO one of the primary areas of interest the Novatak designers had was in beam quality. It is somewhat unique in that there is no highly defined hotspot. the hot area just blends out to the edge of the beam with no sharp fall off.
This may be Their attempt at a sort of wide spotlight.
I like it a lot. Somehow I have a feeling that we will see more lights attempting to mimic this beam pattern.
Yaesumofo

'another thought...

We currently have to choose between good "throw" and good "spread." I don't yet know what makes a setup good for either, but is it possible to engineer one light that shifts between them and does both well?

 

[carrot]

It is entirely possible to create a light that can adjust its focus without moving parts. You'd just need to have a smart glass window whose opacity and refractive index can be finely controlled electronically. It would be expensive, but doable. In the case of the "smart glass" failure, the light would still put out usable output, too, so it fails in the least negative manner possible. If this were to be included on the new HDS lights, I'm sure many would line up to buy one.

 

[Pax et Lux]

None of these are original:

1. Ratchet style head, which you turn to access power levels. Probably not many more than five (or how about red, then 1 through 5? The red LED could be side-mounted to not damage beam quality). However, I'd call it "Navaja," not Ratchet.

2. User programmable. Personally it would take me longer to set up a computer link than make a certain selection of presses – considering that I will have set the dial number already, it should not be too much hassle. I'd rather change things as I go along than wait till I'm back home at a desk.

3. Small, flat or inset clickie with momentary. Can tailstand. But does not add unnecessary length to the light.

4. Lock-out tailcap and strong clip.

5. Switchable LED/light engine (P90 style) to keep up with technological advances.

6. Various body styles, or at least an 18650 or second 123 extender. Did anyone say Lego?

7. Keeping the basic light small above everything else – at the expense of sacrificing some of the above. I'm not going to choose an overlarge single cell light over a small two-cell. Which means I'd take a twisty over an overlong clickie design (you are all going to hate me now).

Of course, I'm assuming toughness, flawless beam and high build quality. That doesn't really need to be stated here. No US manufacturer would try to compete with Chinese imports on low-price, low-quality inventory.

Personally, I'm more concerned about flood and lower levels in a single cell light, as I've usually got a two-cell light in a jacket pocket or belt holster. While I am attached to the idea of KISS, and still believe that an E2L and an Arc AAA can meet 95 per cent of your flashlight needs, I'm warming to the notion of a light that can do pretty much anything (still don't think it can do everything). This might be the ultimate emergency preparedness light.

 

[EmissionLine]

They're getting smaller all the time... how about a couple of accelerometers for gesture based control of some / all functions? Brighter? Shake it (long axis... like you're shaking the liquid light out of a bottle). Dimmer? Roll it. Strobe? rapid wave back and forth. SOS? Slow wave back and forth. Locator beacon could come on automatically if it's dropped (free fall) and hits a hard surface (sudden stop).

Remember how with old cheap incandescents you sometimes had to give 'em a good whack to make 'em work again? Max output could be a couple of smacks against the palm of your hand.

 

[ElectronGuru]

They're getting smaller all the time... how about a couple of accelerometers for gesture based control of some / all functions? Brighter?

Thats amazing! The trick would be differentiating intentional movements from walking down the stairs. Perhaps a certain place or way to hold it? For reference, here's a real time graph of the accelerometer that Apple puts in its laptops (to shut down when dropped):

 

[AZLight]

I would like to see:

1. 18650 battery tube with an external charging port (similar to a cell phone)
2. Strobing capability at all brightness level
3. Adjustable beam from flood to spot
4. Infrared capability
5. option for a 3xAA parallel configuration battery tube.

 

[karlthev]

I sure can't beat all these good ideas out here. How about a patch cord to go from a jack on the light to a battery pack to clip on your belt? I have a hookup like this for a 35mm camera.



Karl

 

[faco]

What I'd like to see in the new HDS is a
1 - Quality Clip (McGizmo Style)
2 - Similar UI as the Novatac, blutooth will make it easy to set, but can't see this feature in a light for many years.
3- Adjustable beam from flood to spot, I don't understand why we don't see this in the latest lights on offer.
4 - An EDC light should be slimmer, about 20mm thick... IMO
5 - More Lumen's than 120P

 

[ElectronGuru]

Been busy, but here are two more:

Universal battery tube
"We" already have universal battery type/voltage capability. Develop a universal battery tube to go with it. I can't work out how, but a way to support various lengths and diameters in a single tube.


Universal color throwing
Take an RBG module

http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=5538&link_str=1430&partno=7007-RGB-01-3​

...and regulate the balance of the three (R-G-B) emitters like a single pixel on a CRT monitor, so as to produce any color of the rainbow in real time. Millions of possible colors could be reduced to specific preconfigured ones: