Help me pick a hydraulic jack, please.
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NightStorm
Flashlight Enthusiast
milkyspit,
Would you accept a bit of advise from a guy who work a long time in the automotive repair field (me)? Don't scrimp on the jacks or jack stands! You'll want to get a floor jack with a strong frame (welded, not stamped) and a wide base, particularly since you're working on a uneven surface. Same goes for the jack stands. The last thing I think you want is something that is going to fold over on you (which I have seen with the cheap stamped frame floor jacks and jack stands /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif ). Consider the Sears that was posted as a starting point and add to that four 5-ton (minimum, because they have wide bases) jack stands like these 6-ton Sears . The money you spend on good equipment always pays itself back through the reduction of injuries and vehicle damage. Also, pick yourself up a sheet or two of 3/4" plywood, rip it in half length ways. Then cut one of the halves into four squares. These will serve as footings for your jack stands. The remaining half can be used as a runway, to roll the floor jack under the car. Take your time and make sure that the car is secure, before doing any work. 'Nuff said for now, I hope this helps.
Dan
ASE Master Mechanic 1982-2000
Would you accept a bit of advise from a guy who work a long time in the automotive repair field (me)? Don't scrimp on the jacks or jack stands! You'll want to get a floor jack with a strong frame (welded, not stamped) and a wide base, particularly since you're working on a uneven surface. Same goes for the jack stands. The last thing I think you want is something that is going to fold over on you (which I have seen with the cheap stamped frame floor jacks and jack stands /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif ). Consider the Sears that was posted as a starting point and add to that four 5-ton (minimum, because they have wide bases) jack stands like these 6-ton Sears . The money you spend on good equipment always pays itself back through the reduction of injuries and vehicle damage. Also, pick yourself up a sheet or two of 3/4" plywood, rip it in half length ways. Then cut one of the halves into four squares. These will serve as footings for your jack stands. The remaining half can be used as a runway, to roll the floor jack under the car. Take your time and make sure that the car is secure, before doing any work. 'Nuff said for now, I hope this helps.
Dan
ASE Master Mechanic 1982-2000
I agree that the bigger and sturdier the jack stands, the better off you are, safety wise. But sometimes the bigger jack stands require you to jack up the car really high in order to get them underneath it, which stresses out the wheel bearings on the opposite side. So...you have to then jack up both sides of the front or back and put the jack stands underneath each side. Sometimes you just need to do a quick repair, and the smaller jack stands come in handy. I use 3 ton stands for that.
I have been using floor jacks, bottle jacks, and jack stands alot lately (car repairs, motorcycle upgrades etc) and I have found that it's much easier when you have a selection depending on what you're doing. So, a small inexpensive 2 1/2 ton floor jack like the Wal-Mart or Sears ones, a big 5 or 6 ton floor jack, some small jack stands and some big ones, a $10 2 ton sears bottle jack, and some decent wheel chocks are what I'd recommend. This doesn't add up to much money, the only expensive thing is the big floor jack. I have some ramps too, but honestly, they hardly ever get used. You can't take the wheels off with them, and they're always in the way when your under the car. Occasionally they come in handy.
Also, when working on a car with a wheel removed and the car on a jack or jack stand, I always put the removed wheel under the frame rail, just as a backup precaution. If the jack slips, at least the car won't go all the way down with part of you under it. You might ruin the wheel, but better that than your hand or arm. hth
Oh, one more thing, make sure the floor jacks have a built in carrying handle, and are the kind that raise with one stroke before contacting the car.
I have been using floor jacks, bottle jacks, and jack stands alot lately (car repairs, motorcycle upgrades etc) and I have found that it's much easier when you have a selection depending on what you're doing. So, a small inexpensive 2 1/2 ton floor jack like the Wal-Mart or Sears ones, a big 5 or 6 ton floor jack, some small jack stands and some big ones, a $10 2 ton sears bottle jack, and some decent wheel chocks are what I'd recommend. This doesn't add up to much money, the only expensive thing is the big floor jack. I have some ramps too, but honestly, they hardly ever get used. You can't take the wheels off with them, and they're always in the way when your under the car. Occasionally they come in handy.
Also, when working on a car with a wheel removed and the car on a jack or jack stand, I always put the removed wheel under the frame rail, just as a backup precaution. If the jack slips, at least the car won't go all the way down with part of you under it. You might ruin the wheel, but better that than your hand or arm. hth
Oh, one more thing, make sure the floor jacks have a built in carrying handle, and are the kind that raise with one stroke before contacting the car.
milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
PercaDan, do you mean this Sears floor jack? Is it welded rather than stamped? I don't see any mention of that in the listing. Also, this one is listed as 3.5 tons, not the 5 or more you recommended. Am I missing something?
Stingray, you guys are both making lots of sense to me, and your advice overlaps. One very small question, though. If that big floor jack doesn't have a handle, is there a way I could add one later? Or if you have an example of a "big" jack meeting all the criteria including handle, could you please tell me where to look or perhaps link to it?
All, I'm sorry for my extreme ignorance, but I need to understand even the most basic things. Most importantly, what do I make contact with under the car to lift it with the floor jack? And what on the car do I attach the jack stands to? If I'm going to all this trouble to get super strong jack and jack stands, it would be tragic to put them under parts of the car that won't bear the weight! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Whatever the answer is for the car, I assume it's similar for my riding mower?
Stingray, you guys are both making lots of sense to me, and your advice overlaps. One very small question, though. If that big floor jack doesn't have a handle, is there a way I could add one later? Or if you have an example of a "big" jack meeting all the criteria including handle, could you please tell me where to look or perhaps link to it?
All, I'm sorry for my extreme ignorance, but I need to understand even the most basic things. Most importantly, what do I make contact with under the car to lift it with the floor jack? And what on the car do I attach the jack stands to? If I'm going to all this trouble to get super strong jack and jack stands, it would be tragic to put them under parts of the car that won't bear the weight! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Whatever the answer is for the car, I assume it's similar for my riding mower?
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milkyspit said:
PercaDan, do you mean this Sears floor jack? Is it welded rather than stamped? I don't see any mention of that in the listing.
[/ QUOTE ]
I can field that one since bought it yesterday. The frame is 7/32" thick welded steel.
milkyspit said:
PercaDan, do you mean this Sears floor jack? Is it welded rather than stamped? I don't see any mention of that in the listing.
[/ QUOTE ]
I can field that one since bought it yesterday. The frame is 7/32" thick welded steel.
NightStorm
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
milkyspit said:
PercaDan, do you mean this Sears floor jack? Is it welded rather than stamped? I don't see any mention of that in the listing. Also, this one is listed as 3.5 tons, not the 5 or more you recommended. Am I missing something?
You misunderstood, 5-ton jack stands. As to the jack, that's a good one. See the thick steel side plates (as opposed to stamped sheet metal plates)? The only thing that I see as a negative is the smallish jack pad (lifting saddle).
Stingray, you guys are both making lots of sense to me, and your advice overlaps. One very small question, though. If that big floor jack doesn't have a handle, is there a way I could add one later? Or if you have an example of a "big" jack meeting all the criteria including handle, could you please tell me where to look or perhaps link to it?
Walker and Lincoln have been industry standards for quite some time now. The OTC in a previous link is also good. I know very little about the General Hydraulics that Harbor Freight sells and I can only conjecture that they are made in China. I'll allow others to provide some links for you. Also, I can't imagine a floor jack without a handle nor (without any specifics) could I tell you if you could add one later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
All, I'm sorry for my extreme ignorance, but I need to understand even the most basic things. Most importantly, what do I make contact with under the car to lift it with the floor jack? And what on the car do I attach the jack stands to? If I'm going to all this trouble to get super strong jack and jack stands, it would be tragic to put them under parts of the car that won't bear the weight! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Frame (if full-framed), frame boxes (if uni-body), sub-frame or cross-members (careful on these, it takes some experience) and sometimes suspension members and axle housings (once again, careful). Now mind you, these are all generalities and a lot of this requires common sense. For instance, don't jack a vehicle up by its bell housing (or any other cast part), its not strong enough to support the weight....etc., etc., etc.. Check your owner's manual for specifics. Also, many cars have special jacking points welded on the underside of the vehicle's floor pan and what pertains to jacking also pertains to the jack stands.
Whatever the answer is for the car, I assume it's similar for my riding mower?
Yep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Procede carefully. Later.
Dan
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milkyspit said:
PercaDan, do you mean this Sears floor jack? Is it welded rather than stamped? I don't see any mention of that in the listing. Also, this one is listed as 3.5 tons, not the 5 or more you recommended. Am I missing something?
You misunderstood, 5-ton jack stands. As to the jack, that's a good one. See the thick steel side plates (as opposed to stamped sheet metal plates)? The only thing that I see as a negative is the smallish jack pad (lifting saddle).
Stingray, you guys are both making lots of sense to me, and your advice overlaps. One very small question, though. If that big floor jack doesn't have a handle, is there a way I could add one later? Or if you have an example of a "big" jack meeting all the criteria including handle, could you please tell me where to look or perhaps link to it?
Walker and Lincoln have been industry standards for quite some time now. The OTC in a previous link is also good. I know very little about the General Hydraulics that Harbor Freight sells and I can only conjecture that they are made in China. I'll allow others to provide some links for you. Also, I can't imagine a floor jack without a handle nor (without any specifics) could I tell you if you could add one later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
All, I'm sorry for my extreme ignorance, but I need to understand even the most basic things. Most importantly, what do I make contact with under the car to lift it with the floor jack? And what on the car do I attach the jack stands to? If I'm going to all this trouble to get super strong jack and jack stands, it would be tragic to put them under parts of the car that won't bear the weight! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Frame (if full-framed), frame boxes (if uni-body), sub-frame or cross-members (careful on these, it takes some experience) and sometimes suspension members and axle housings (once again, careful). Now mind you, these are all generalities and a lot of this requires common sense. For instance, don't jack a vehicle up by its bell housing (or any other cast part), its not strong enough to support the weight....etc., etc., etc.. Check your owner's manual for specifics. Also, many cars have special jacking points welded on the underside of the vehicle's floor pan and what pertains to jacking also pertains to the jack stands.
Whatever the answer is for the car, I assume it's similar for my riding mower?
Yep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Procede carefully. Later.
Dan
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Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
PercaDan said:Also, I can't imagine a floor jack without a handle nor (without any specifics) could I tell you if you could add one later.
[/ QUOTE ]
I think he means carrying handle, not the actual pumping handle- Most of the big floor jacks don't have handles for carrying, as they're meant to be wheeled around, and not lifted; it's only the smaller/lighter jacks that usually provide carrying handles.
PercaDan said:Also, I can't imagine a floor jack without a handle nor (without any specifics) could I tell you if you could add one later.
[/ QUOTE ]
I think he means carrying handle, not the actual pumping handle- Most of the big floor jacks don't have handles for carrying, as they're meant to be wheeled around, and not lifted; it's only the smaller/lighter jacks that usually provide carrying handles.
milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes yes, meant carry handle. I didn't even think about that statement causing confusion, but I was sadly mistaken. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
Here's one that seems similar to the racing jacks sold by HF, with carrying handles, and about 40lb weight.
Haven't seen it personally, but $79 seems quite a bit cheaper than the Craftsman one-
lightweight with carrying handle
Haven't seen it personally, but $79 seems quite a bit cheaper than the Craftsman one-
lightweight with carrying handle
GeorgeB
Newly Enlightened
I have one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42820
It was on sale for 99.00 it is not the best quality out there, but it is overkill for the jobs I do around the house. I like it, and have had no problems with it.
I also got a pair of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38847
They were on sale for 19.00 a pair, they look very beefy, and will hold any of my vehicles. I have been very happy with both of these items.
George
It was on sale for 99.00 it is not the best quality out there, but it is overkill for the jobs I do around the house. I like it, and have had no problems with it.
I also got a pair of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38847
They were on sale for 19.00 a pair, they look very beefy, and will hold any of my vehicles. I have been very happy with both of these items.
George
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well, my old HF floor jack was getting tired, and I figured it was time for something new, so I got one of these-
Thing looks like a work of art..
The saddle raises up to the chassis in pretty much a single pump, with a dual stage valving setup, and has a 3-3/4" to 18-1/2" range.
The two-piece handle comes apart with quick release pins for easy transport and stowing; really slick setup. The handle alone is an impressive looking piece, brushed aluminum with an agressive knurling at the end for grip.
Even has a magnetized parts tray for holding lugnuts and the like-
The 44lb weight and the three handles makes it easy to lift in and out, which I needed because I don't have a clear area to wheel the jack out, which was a pain with the heavier HF one.
This can be easily transported in the car with the quick disconnect removal of the jack handle, which I haven't seen on most other jacks.
binky
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's so cool and so much better than their old models!
The headquarters person in charge of Sears' tools just absolutely rocks. They really seem to be charging hard at getting their customers back that were lost during the last, dark decade for them.
Pisses me off that the Wall Street analysts talk about Sears' profits picking up because they cut their staff. It's picking up because people are going back to shopping there you morons! (IMHO)
The headquarters person in charge of Sears' tools just absolutely rocks. They really seem to be charging hard at getting their customers back that were lost during the last, dark decade for them.
Pisses me off that the Wall Street analysts talk about Sears' profits picking up because they cut their staff. It's picking up because people are going back to shopping there you morons! (IMHO)
M
MeridianTactical
Guest
I hate to admit it, but my 7 year old $39.95 K-Mart jack works great and I have used it alot.
I do my own brakes and such...
I thought of buying a more expensive one, but in hindsite I'm glad I only spent the $39.95...
I do my own brakes and such...
I thought of buying a more expensive one, but in hindsite I'm glad I only spent the $39.95...
milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Wingerr, that thing is beautiful. But oh so expensive! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif
Dangit, now I want one. But need some $$$ first...
Dangit, now I want one. But need some $$$ first...
NeonLights
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm not a mechanic, but have done all my own work on our cars (whenever possible) for the last 15+ years, and use a floor jack at least several times a month for work on the cars, and during the race season with switching wheels and tires frequently, several times a week. I've got a heavy (80-100 lbs) floor jack that never leaves my shop, bought it from Northern Tool, the reason I picked that particular one (Omega brand I believe) is that it goes lower than most jacks, 3" with saddle, about 2.5" without IIRC. The car that I race is lowered, and most floor jacks won't fit under it. Never used or owned a bottle jack in my life. Out of the 14 vehicles I've owned over the years, a standard bottle jack would have fit under only two of them.
I change tires at the racetrack most of the time, and for that, I use the stock scissor type jack that came with my Neons. It uses a hex head to drive it up which is the same size as my lug nuts, so I use a cordless impact to jack the car up and remove/install my lug nuts. I never use jackstands for this because I'm never under the car (but I always use them when I am under a car). I go through about one stock jack a year doing this (cost $10-20 each for a replacement). I'll probably eventually get one of those lightweight "racing" floor jacks to swap tires at the track though, I've had my eye on that one from Sears for awhile, kinda pricey though.
In addition to the stock saddle that came with my jack, I bought two others from Eastwood that work very well. One is a square padded sadle that won't mar surfaces (so I don't have to cut up old tires for pads), and the other has a groove to go around the factory pinch welded seam that most unibody cars have. Allows me to use the factory jack points with a floor jack without risking bending anything.
-Keith
I change tires at the racetrack most of the time, and for that, I use the stock scissor type jack that came with my Neons. It uses a hex head to drive it up which is the same size as my lug nuts, so I use a cordless impact to jack the car up and remove/install my lug nuts. I never use jackstands for this because I'm never under the car (but I always use them when I am under a car). I go through about one stock jack a year doing this (cost $10-20 each for a replacement). I'll probably eventually get one of those lightweight "racing" floor jacks to swap tires at the track though, I've had my eye on that one from Sears for awhile, kinda pricey though.
In addition to the stock saddle that came with my jack, I bought two others from Eastwood that work very well. One is a square padded sadle that won't mar surfaces (so I don't have to cut up old tires for pads), and the other has a groove to go around the factory pinch welded seam that most unibody cars have. Allows me to use the factory jack points with a floor jack without risking bending anything.
-Keith
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yeah, you wouldn't think the minimum saddle height would be such a big deal, but I've definitely come across situations where it's nice to have a lower jack to slide under. If it's close, I manually heaved up on the car a bit to get enough room to slide it in, and it needs a lot, I ended up driving the car onto some spare lumber to gain the extra inch or two that I needed.
One thing I do notice about this jack is that the mechanical advantage is lower, so it takes more effort to pump up, since it's faster. Of course, part of it might have be because I was working on a 3900 lb lb Caprice..
One thing I do notice about this jack is that the mechanical advantage is lower, so it takes more effort to pump up, since it's faster. Of course, part of it might have be because I was working on a 3900 lb lb Caprice..
Wingerr
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
milkyspit said:
Wingerr, that thing is beautiful. But oh so expensive! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, I have to say the picture doesn't do it justice at all; you have to see the thing in person- it looks even better /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I did get it with a price match to the online price and a discount coupon, so it seemed more in the realm of reason, anyway..
milkyspit said:
Wingerr, that thing is beautiful. But oh so expensive! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, I have to say the picture doesn't do it justice at all; you have to see the thing in person- it looks even better /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I did get it with a price match to the online price and a discount coupon, so it seemed more in the realm of reason, anyway..
fivebyfive
Enlightened
Go get yourself a nice floor jack at costco. They cost around $70.Since you mentioned that it would be for occasional use, this floor jack will be more than good. Don't buy a $20 floor jack from kragen, pepboys, autozone or any other store. These will do for little simple jobs, changing a tire and stuff, but in the long run I would buy a nicer floor jack. Besides, when you compare the two floor jacks, which one would you trust more to hold your car up while you position the jack stands ? Also the $70 floor jack is easier to use, more stable, and more reliable than the cheapo $20 ones. You won't be disappointed, buy the nicer floor jack.
milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
All, back in early October I ended up buying this one at Sears. At the time I got it on sale for $99.
But now that Wingerr has shown me that lightweight jack he bought, I'm jealous! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif I've got to lug my jack out to the gravel driveway, and it's REALLY HEAVY. No carry handles, either, and the jack handle itself is semi-permanently attached with bolts, where I'd love to have the quick-release pins.
If I were buying today, I'd probably get a couple super heavy duty jack stands and the same floor jack as Wingerr. But I'm not in any position to buy another expensive jack when I just bought one a couple months ago. DOH! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif
But now that Wingerr has shown me that lightweight jack he bought, I'm jealous! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif I've got to lug my jack out to the gravel driveway, and it's REALLY HEAVY. No carry handles, either, and the jack handle itself is semi-permanently attached with bolts, where I'd love to have the quick-release pins.
If I were buying today, I'd probably get a couple super heavy duty jack stands and the same floor jack as Wingerr. But I'm not in any position to buy another expensive jack when I just bought one a couple months ago. DOH! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif
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milkyspit said:
No carry handles, either, and the jack handle itself is semi-permanently attached with bolts, where I'd love to have the quick-release pins.
[/ QUOTE ]
It's mod time!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Adding a handle should be simple, those bolts might be a little more work... clevis pins, maybe?
milkyspit said:
No carry handles, either, and the jack handle itself is semi-permanently attached with bolts, where I'd love to have the quick-release pins.
[/ QUOTE ]
It's mod time!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Adding a handle should be simple, those bolts might be a little more work... clevis pins, maybe?
