Help with 2-stage switch

[Tim W]

I'm running a SF M2 with AW's 17670 and a cree drop-in from litemania.

I ordered the following: "Assembled 2-Stage Switch For Surefire Classic series
[McC2S]" from the sandwich shoppe after reading the post http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=83844&highlight=McE2S

I got it with the 60ohm resistor as I (I think I want) wanted the low as low as possible.

I'm quite happy with the runtime and brightness of the full power setting.

Can anyone give me an idea of how LOW this will be with the above set-up?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[McGizmo]

Tim,
Hopefully someone familiar with your combo of components can chime in. I have know knowledge of the drop in or how it behaves with a 2 stage switch.

 

[who]

Hi Tim,
Just did a check for you. SF C2 with AW's 17670 and a generic 120 lumens Cree drop-in.
The low is comparable to level 14 of my NovaTac 120P, which is 7.5 lumens.
I hope that helps.

 

[cy]

glad to see comments about this two stage switch for LOTC M series caps. been running one on my L6 for the last year.

only my preference is for a brighter low beam. so my low is medium for most folks.

having Titan around with it's dial it in levels, sure spoils ya...

 

[Tim W]

Hi Tim,
Just did a check for you. SF C2 with AW's 17670 and a generic 120 lumens Cree drop-in.
The low is comparable to level 14 of my NovaTac 120P, which is 7.5 lumens.
I hope that helps.

THANKS!!!!!!!

Hopefully, this will be about what level I'm looking for.

If not, does anyone know if I can change the resistor myself, or would I be better off getting a second switch?

Tim

 

[who]

Hi Tim,

The resistor change is very easy, a 30 seconds job. You could order many more resistor discs from the Shoppe. However, having the second switch is not a bad idea.
I really like the Mc2ES switches, so I have 12 of them. I have tinkered and was able to put them in almost any kind of tail cap. Currently, I have Mc2ES switches in ALL of my Aleph, L4, L5, L6, 3P, 6P, 9P, G2, 6Z, C2. I also fitted them in Leef, RPM, TnC, and MaxLite tails.

Two things to remember:
- The C series switches use a bigger resistor disc. The rest are identical with the Aleph/E series switch.
- The flat top E series version uses a different button and a separate tail cap.

I do not recommend using these switches with any incandescent lights. All of my C series Surefire that use the Mc2ES have Cree or Seoul drop-ins.

THANKS!!!!!!!

Hopefully, this will be about what level I'm looking for.

If not, does anyone know if I can change the resistor myself, or would I be better off getting a second switch?

Tim

 

[Tim W]

The resistor change is very easy, a 30 seconds job. You could order many more resistor discs from the Shoppe.

Thanks for the info.

Just looked on the shoppes' pages and saw they had two of the resistor discs' so I also ordered a 22 and 30.

Between those and the 60 I originally ordered, I would guess I'll be set.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[Tim W]

Got the switch and resistor disc's today.

Installation was fairly simple with the exception that the stock spring from the original LOTC did not fit into the recess in the McC2s. Twisted the end a bit until I could make it fit. Not very straight anymore but it seems to work although it gets knocked out easily if I bump it when putting it in to the body.

Is there a replacement spring that will fit better?



Could not get the light to light up consistently on low with the original 60ohm disc, so swapped in the 30 and it works perfectly. I think I might have twisted the allen screw loose that holds everything together at first, but I'll play with it more tomorrow.



WHO: I see you're using this set-up in a C2. Are you using a single 17670 or 2 rcr123's? Also, what resistance are you using?

One last probably dumb question: Is there any danger of overheating and burning out the resistors with long run-times? I know that they have to dissipate the energy that they keep from reaching the LED.

 

[who]

Got the switch and resistor disc's today.

Installation was fairly simple with the exception that the stock spring from the original LOTC did not fit into the recess in the McC2s. Twisted the end a bit until I could make it fit. Not very straight anymore but it seems to work although it gets knocked out easily if I bump it when putting it in to the body.

Is there a replacement spring that will fit better?

The Mc2ES for E series comes with a spring. I always believe that it should be included for the C series also. It fits much better.

WHO: I see you're using this set-up in a C2. Are you using a single 17670 or 2 rcr123's? Also, what resistance are you using?

I use both. For 17670, I use 15 or 22 ohms. For 2xRCR123, I use 60 ohms, 30 ohms works but might be too bright for you.

One last probably dumb question: Is there any danger of overheating and burning out the resistors with long run-times? I know that they have to dissipate the energy that they keep from reaching the LED.

So far so good in my 12 Mc2ES, and I use them in some high current case, up to 1.2 amp.

I hope that helps.

 

[Tim W]

The Mc2ES for E series comes with a spring. I always believe that it should be included for the C series also. It fits much better.



I use both. For 17670, I use 15 or 22 ohms. For 2xRCR123, I use 60 ohms, 30 ohms works but might be too bright for you.



So far so good in my 12 Mc2ES, and I use them in some high current case, up to 1.2 amp.

I hope that helps.

Thanks, it does help.

I don't have anyway to test it, but I wondered if the 60 ohm might be dropping TOO much voltage since I'm only using a single 3.7v cell. I have tried the 60 again with the same results = not good.

I ran it for about 2 hours (30ohm) straight tonight and the battery (no load) went from 4.13 to 4.09v,and abolutely cool to the touch, so I'm guessing I should get at least 4-5 hours runtime out of this combo.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[Codeman]

Thanks, it does help.

I don't have anyway to test it, but I wondered if the 60 ohm might be dropping TOO much voltage since I'm only using a single 3.7v cell. I have tried the 60 again with the same results = not good.
...

I think you're right. 10-30 ohm is a better fit for single cell lights.