Hi Guys!

[Nasty]

I've been away for a while but it's nice to be back.

A good while ago, I picked up a beautiful red Mag2D to use as host for *something*. I forget now what it was but figure that since then, things might have changed anyway.

What's the coolest and cheapest mod I can use this host for?

I have the Mag 2 D...

I know where to buy the 3AA to 1D battery holder at Litemania:

- Serial connect 3AA - 3.6V from NiMh AA - 4.5V from Alkaline AA


What's best now for the head end? Just try to get one of the Fusion 36 heads ($23)? Still go for a ROP?

I need a parts list and suppliers please...

Thanks a ton!

 

[irv_usc]

since you've been gone for a while I would recommend you NOT to order anything from litemania. If you need reference, check out the CPFmarketplace Dealer forum.

Fivemega makes a 3AA to 1D, and so does mdocd(?) here in the custom sale/trade forum.

 

[mrartillery]

So are you planning on keeping it in 2 cell format or 1 cell?

 

[Nasty]

Thanks...I see what you were talking about.

As far as cells...I'm open. I have the beautiful red host Mag D, but need whatever else. I'm open to all ideas, help and suggestions.

My silver Mag2C R123x3 has worn off it's wow factor and I need a new fix!

 

[mrartillery]

Well there are tons of options for a 2 cell and 1 alike, also need to decide on incan or led.

 

[Nasty]

I looked at your 6D monster...it might beat out my upgraded Harley headlamps (replaced the stock USA with the European unit and upped a couple of notches with new Osrams and wired everything *On* on high).

How *Wow* can I go for a hundred bucks and the 2DMag?

I was impressed for a while with the 2CMag R123x3...looking for a similar smile.


ps: *If* I can get one of the Fusion 36 head units, I can pop that into an old beater 3DMag I have for a neat flood toy, so perhaps I should focus on a thrower for the 2DMag!

 

[mrartillery]

Most wow in a 2 D would probably be a Mag623 tri bored for a Ni-mh battery pack. But since you are wanting to get out for a couple hundred bucks (and keep it somewhat useful) then I would go with 3 IMR 26500's with a shortened and recessed tail spring. You will also need to get yourself a KIU kit to mod your switch with. With this setup you can use a variety of bulbs, among the most popular an 1185, a Hikari 5607 or FM's 1909. The 5607 and 1909 will put out roughly over 2000 bulb lumens and make a nice beam when joined with a MOP reflector.

 

[Nasty]

So...$15 for the Kiu socket kit (is he still providing them?), $50 worth of batteries (how long will a set last?), $15 for a bulb...and get 2000 Lumen?

That's a WOW!

Does it last 20 minutes?

 

[mrartillery]

So...$15 for the Kiu socket kit (is he still providing them?), $50 worth of batteries (how long will a set last?), $15 for a bulb...and get 2000 Lumen?

That's a WOW!

Does it last 20 minutes?

All the KIU's that Ive ever ordered have came in so hopefully you should receive one, although you may find one sooner if you post a WTB in Custom Mod B/S/T. The IMR's are rechargable, so as long as you don't over or under discharge them they should last you for quite sometime. And yes the 1909 will provide about 1500 OTF lumens as will the Hikari 5607 which is what I use in one of my 2 D's. They are much cheaper (little over a $1 each) and when paired with one of Lithos MOP reflectors it really does make a beautiful beam. Runtime will be around 20 minutes for the 1909 and roughly 25 for the 5607.

 

[Nasty]

I've taken a couple of baby steps since our discussion.

1. I disassembled my M*g2C 3xCR123/KPR12 and salvaged parts

2. I made a battery tube of PVC to hold 4xCR123 in a M*g2D and installed a KPR18. No instaflash (resistance of the M*g switch and modded tailcap spring is probably saving it) and it seems rockin' in the house, will check tonight to see what it does outside. This has a UCL lens. (are 4 primary CR123 in a row safe?)

3. I got a deep tailcap, deep SMO (Chrome) reflector and G4 socket from FM, new PVC tube, 2x186500 (2900) from AW, a new Boro lens and a couple of WA1111s. Again, parts all arrived at the same time so will test it outside tonight. No instaflash in the house but can't wait to see it in the wild.

4. I have one of the Fusion 36 showerheads coming Monday...will sit on a stack of 5 Duracell Cs in a PVC pipe. Ought to be interesting as well.

Learning as I go...and I will eventually get to the setup you suggested, just needed to take small enough steps to be comfortable.

Oh..and do it as I can afford to!

 

[mrartillery]

I think you will enjoy the 1111 setup, its a great little bulb, only problem i see with that is you are likely to it unless you are very careful of your voltages. The 1111 will flash at around 8.3v, maybe a little sooner than that with 2900mah cells and a cold filament, thats why most people use soft start when using the 1111 unless you use 6 aa cells as I did. I would suggest not charging them much over 4v each if you're going to run it without soft start, hopefully this should keep the bulb from flashing.

 

[Nasty]

Thanks for rejoining the thread!

It hasn't poofed yet...but I did order three just in case.

I will make sure that I don't load them fresh off the charger though.

Any comments on my #2 above? The 4x123 firing a 118 seems great so far and certainly seems a decent bargain setup. Any guess as to how many lumens that runs?

 

[mrartillery]

Ive never used this setup so I couldn't tell you a reasonable figure, however if you're going to use potted bulbs you might want to consider the Pelican 3854 L or H with 2 18650's. I dont know much about the 118 but Im sure they would blow it away.

 

[Nasty]

Too much draw with the 1384 as I've seen it...could be dangerous with 123 primaries.

 

[Import_guy]

Found some 3aa to d converter if you still want them.http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=2723

 

[mrartillery]

Too much draw with the 1384 as I've seen it...could be dangerous with 123 primaries.

With 123's perhaps, but not with your 18650's, this makes an excellent setup. I have it myself in a 2 C.

Found some 3aa to d converter if you still want them.http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=2723

These are pretty crappy, a lot of internal resistance and they cannot handle anything much over a amp, not a good choice for hotwires.

 

[fivemega]

Found some 3aa to d converter if you still want them.http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=2723

These are pretty crappy, a lot of internal resistance and they cannot handle anything much over a amp, not a good choice for hotwires.

Not a good choice for LEDs neither.
These days not many people use one Amp LEDs in a M*g.

 

[Fichtenelch]

I'd go for 3C Nimh's, a d2flex and sst-90. + britelumens heatsink or selfmade copper/brass heatsink and britelumens reflector. and ucl lens.