The MagCharger Bulb is probably one of the more underrated Hotwire bulbs. Some may not even consider it a hotwire bulb on account that it is a stock Maglite bulb sometimes dropped in favor of the 1160 to upgrade MagChargers.
In my time on CPF I've experimented with most of the common and important hotwire bulbs, and along with the Rop Low, I still regard the MC bulb as a viable option for a "User" flashlight.
The 200 some odd lumens it will produce can go along way when you are navigating the bush in the dead of night, especially when runtime is a key matter.
Furthermore the petite filament, allowing it to be focused tighter then most other hotwire bulbs, and the fact that it can achieve a nice crisp white output without the need for much overdrive, can make up for the lack of output in many applications.
Submitted for you consideration is a Hotwire I call:
The MagCharger v2.0
This is a great beginner hotwire in my opinion. Other then the bulb and batteries and a 2D host, all you really need to get one running is a Fivemega Bi-Pin socket, a 52.1x2mm Boro Lens, and a M5 lockwasher.
All 3 are components you will likely buy eventually as you further explore the hotwire world.
Our Power Plant for this mod uses a pair of 26650 LiFepo4 cells. LiFe for short.
The LiFe Cell:
Seen on the left are a pair of 3400mAh aftermarket cells.
They can be found from the infamous BatterySpace, or in Canada from Onlybatteries.com
On the left are the classic A123 system cells that started it all. They can be had on Ebay.
The LiFe cell is very usable in is ability to match common voltage levels giving it the ability to run most things designed to run at 6, 9, or 12 volts.
Fresh of the charger they yield 3.6volts a cell. Under load they will quickly sag to just about their working voltage, then hold that line for most of their usable capacity.
This makes them an excellent source the the MC bulb's vital nutrients.
The MC bulb can easily handle the 7.2volt peak as it's originally matched with 5 Nickel based cells that can easily exceed that at their peak.
Once in their element, the constant feed of 6.6volts keeps your MC Bulb crispy until it's time for a charge.
Not to mention, they are also a Safe Chemistry that has no problem being fast charged, allowing them to be ready to go in short notice with the right Charger.
But enough about the Battery.
The MCv2 comes together pretty easily. The only part that you need to be crafty about is fashioning some form of battery spacer tube.
I use the paper towel tube and electrical tape trick.
Some people go to the hardware store and get a piece of pipe cut that does the job with more of a polished look.
One of the great things about the MCv2 is it can be made with the stock Mag reflector. The MC bulb is not so high output that it will melt the reflector instantly, though prolonged use under the wrong conditions can damage it.
Sadly, you still need to upgrade the lens as the stock one doesn't stand a chance.
The First Step to using the stock reflector with the Fivemega adapter is to lock the cam in the lowest position. You can not focus the bulb properly drop in style with the cam system. The bulb sits too high up in the reflector.
Locking down the Cam is done by installing the aforementioned M5 lock washer into the cam nut so that it grabs hold of the slug tower. Once in this position, when the reflector is installed it will not yield much of a flood beam but a few twists outwards will get you the hotspot you desire.
For more information on how to remove the mag switch, and more detail of the installation of the lock washer you can refer to THIS THREAD.
The Next Step is adjusting the Positive terminal spring to accommodate the flat top cells. This is done simply by tugging the spring upwards with a screwdriver or tool of your choice.
You'll notice as you tug it, the spring will actually lift up a few rungs out of its retainer cup. You are not actually stretching it as much as you are exposing more spring.
Once this is done you can go ahead and install the switch assembly back into the Mag Body.
Installing the Batteries only requires the reversal of the spring. You flip it upside down, effectively shortening it. Once done, you'll find that dropping a pair of 26650 cells into the Mag 2D body is a breeze.
There is even proper electrical contact made without the need to remove any anodizing inside of the tailcap.
Note: Pictured here I am using the spring from a newer LED Maglite which is perfect for the reverse spring mod. In the event you are using a normal mag spring with a123 cells, and an AW Incan Driver, you will have to bend inwards in the inner ring on the bottom of the spring to make proper contact with the negative button.
For the Next Step you should refer to THIS THREAD for for information on proper bulb handling techniques and how to fine tune the focus.
With this information you could even go as far as to advance the tuning of the cams locked position to get your hotspot focus with the head twisted on tight.
Once you've done those finishing touches, you are done, you have yourself a Basic MagCharger v2.0.
Making it Better !
So you have yourself a MC v2.0, you're enjoying it, maybe getting plenty of use out of it, What's next if you want to upgrade it ?
I'm glad you asked.
The next step to advancing the quality of your MCv2 is to add on a good reflector.
Seen here the MCv2 is sporting the FiveMega Ver2 Deep reflector.
In my opinion, this is the best Bang per Buck reflector CPF has to offer.
With the VLOP version I have, you get a tight hotspot, with a very smooth transition into spill, and literally no artifacts. After you use one of these, you will find it difficult to go back to a plain reflector.
Also, with the cam action it yields an excellent flood beam.
HERE is a review with Beamshots.
Perhaps you want some more distance?
Fasten on a FiveMega Thowmaster. Apon writing this, I jsut got mine, so I haven't got much to say about it, but, they don't call it a throwmaster for nothing. This reflector can focus the MC bulb into one of the tightest beams attainable from a hotwire bulb and toss it clear down the block.
So, I got my reflector, What Else Can I Do ?
Add an AW Incan Driver.
Originally designed to tame and protect Super High Output hotwire bulbs, it's actually a beautiful match with the MC bulb. Not only will it help prolong the life of your bulb and batteries, but the 3 output modes make the MCv2 all the more a well rounded and usable light.
In low mode, with an average draw of 750mAh, you get that familiar glow of a 3D light. Great for getting around without burning a whole lot of power. It works well for illuminating your path while maintaining some of your night eyes, taking the glare out of a snowy area, and is ideal to throttle down the light if you want to inspect something up close.
In medium mode, with an average draw of jsut over 1 amp, this great average mode produces output similar to a 4 to 6D mag. Great for typical flashlight use.
Then of course, kick it into full output mode for full MC output.
This can be a huge contrast to how well the Incan Driver works with much higher output bulbs, where the lower settings can look yellow and ugly while not being as practical for they will still throw off enough lumens to counteract the effects mentioned above.
Once you have put together your MCv2, with a good reflector and an Incan Driver, you have yourself a nice, reasonably sized, lighter then stock USER light. It's a good thing.
Reflector Concerns.
As you can build the MCv2 using the stock reflector, it's not without it side effects. The stock reflector still is made of Plastic, and can be prone to warpage over time. I've used the MCv2 for a fair amount of time outdoors with the AW Incan Driver without any ill effect, if only cause the cool air, constant movement, and used average output levels prevented things from overheating.
Using it indoors at full power for a fair amount of time, probably about a half hour straight, produced this effect.
As you can see there is a subtle warping of the reflector coating around the edge of the bulb opening. This is not enough to cause alarm, but never the less, it could get much worse if average duty cycles are not maintained.
At one point I torture tested this setup. Running it indoors for about 30 to 45 mins straight, and left it sitting in one position. This was the resulting effect.
As you can see, the section above the bulb started to melt, and on the back, the cam nut left and impression in the cam. Letting the light sit on, for long periods of time, in one position, is defiantly not a good idea. It may fair better if positioned upwards to light up a room, but is still not recommended.
In the event that the light is accidentally turned on, perhaps sitting on its head, it could no doubt prove a Fire Hazard.
In the end, if you like your MCv2, and plan to use it frequently, you will have to upgrade the reflector.
Spring Warp Concerns:
Locking the Cam into it's lowest position is not without its side effects.
Prolong use of the spring, under full compression, combined with the heat of operation, it can loose its ability to recoil back outwards.
If you care about your spring and the ability to reverse the mod I would recommend using a shorter spring.
Seen here I have substituted the stock spring with a shorter one salvaged from the positive contact of a Blown D26 bulb assembly.
Charging the Batteries.
LiFe cells are not like normal Lions, obviously. They hold a lesser voltage charge and attempting to charge them with a typical Lion Charger will result in overcharge and may ruin the battery.
THIS THREAD illustrates some advanced battery charging methods used by the experienced modder.
The easy way is to pick up a decent multi purpose charge like this one:
This unit was acquired from Ebay for a very good price.
It's not the best quality, and is rather slow, but it gets the job done.
It has an odd flaw. The top positive terminals cannot make proper contact with the Blue High Capacity Cells. I had to gently punch an extra set of points to make contact. More info available upon request.
Seen here as the uppermost bumps.
It is also recommended you gently bend the bottom negative contact fingers upwards to make better contact with the bottom of the battery.
In the end, if you are new to hotwire modding, and/or are looking for a user light with a good balance of output and runtime, this might just be the mod for you.
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