How much Heat can the Stock Mag Switch take?

MegaHurtz

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Hello everyone, Im brewing plans to mod the mag 3D into a more powerful incandescent light. it will probably be 12AA (7.2v), or i could go 6v. Using PR bulbs, or fivemega's adaptor for bi-pin bulbs; whatever.

Heres the catch: This light needs to keep the focusing ability. So just how many watts can the stock mag switch reliably take? 10watts? 15? 20? hopefully more??
 

Al Combs

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Perhaps you could ask the mods to move this to the Incandescent Flashlights forum for a better responce. I'm really more of an LED guy. A standard ROP for instance, has an entirely stock switch but requires a metal reflector for the 24 watt bulb. The reflector will melt before the switch. I've read several posts saying 10 watts is about the limit for a the stock plastic reflector. You can buy a metal reflector with removable cam tube to retain the quick focus ability. So I guess that means you could buy a Pelican Big D bulb pair and use the 11 watt low power bulb in an entirely unmodified MagLite. That is while you're waiting for the metal reflector to arrive.;)
 

MegaHurtz

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Good Idea! If the Mods decide to move this thread, i wont argue (i almost posted there anyways...)

Thanks for the response, Ive got a metal reflector for this creation, but just need to form a strategy based on the plastic switch. That is going to be the weak link! If i had a machine shop, i would have built a metal switch housing which retains the focusing ability (which would also work wonders for LED builds)
 

alpg88

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i ran my mag 85, 4c for about 30 min, and the head, and the barrel past the switch got too hot to touch, switch survived just fine,
i run wa1185 (3x18650) in ss socket mounted in original unmodified switch.
 

MegaHurtz

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If memory serves, the wa1185 is 30 watts? That gives me great hope!

This really opens up some interesting possibilities!
 

Illum

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the Mag85 using 9 eneloops could be kept on for at least a good 5-6 minutes without the tower falling apart, I'm hesitant to leave it on longer because my batteries were getting quite hot. I sold my last mag85 sometime last year and I can't give you any readings.

alpg88, :thanks: for that info:grin2:
 

alpg88

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np.
i,m surprised your cells got hot, cuz i checked my cells right after that half hour run, and to my surprise cells were only warm, they do however sit in paper rolled sleeve, that one is not tightly wound and only tied by scotch tape every few turns, apparently it works great as heat insulator, cuz tube around the cells was a lot hotter.
 

Billy Ram

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I have run one of my m*g85s for 35 mins straight with out harming the bulb tower. It does have the bulb spring resistance mod and the FM socket.
Billy
 

mrartillery

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When using the stock Mag switch configuration you need to pay more attention to amp draw of the particular bulb, anything much over 5.5a will shorten the life of the switch, however I have several lights in this this amp range using the stock clicky mechanism with never any problems. Where you really run into trouble is when you get into the big bulbs in the 9 and 10a range, this is when you will start to melt down the internal contacts within the clicky itself. Or if it doesn't melt you will cause a lot of resistance which will overall lead to poor performance and output. If you plan on using a 1185 or something similiar you should have no troubles with meltdown of the switch internals or the tower.
 
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