Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC light

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BuddTX

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In another thread, dat2zip (Wayne) said this:

[ QUOTE ]
dat2zip said:
I think the general populous here has lost sight on a great combination.

I see new posts asking what is the brightest... Well, sure the brightess may be the MM+, but it comes at a great expense. I think CPF has the ownership to inform others of the tradeoffs of the cutting edge and to offer a diverse set of alternatives as well as what is the cutting edge.

I think the MM is a bargin.

Fact: MM is 80% as bright as a MM+.
(MM+ is only 20% brighter)

Fact: MM runtime on 2AA is 2-3 hours of almost flat constant output.
(MM+ is lucky to get you 1 hour)

Fact: MM is overdriving the 1W Luxeon by more than 2X the rated current. This puts the MM above almost any commercial flashlight using the same 1W Luxeon. In general, this includes the KL1 and all the ARC LSLs and LSHs.

I believe in maximizing usefullness. Thus, I have invested heavily in the MM series. As long as the few extremist dominate CPF demanding the bleeding edge, the average user will never see the practical side that most 1W Luxeons of almost any bin is still technology better off than any generic incandescent lamp.

I am putting this here to stop the bleeding and the some of the lunacy I now see happening in the Firefly thread.

. . . .

I'll explain why I would do this:

1) The MM would be nice and bright. Most 1W of any bin is plenty bright for a keychain light. In fact a MM is probably an overkill.

2) The MM would give me several useful hours of runtime. I know I could count on this as a emergency light to walk down the highway for an hour and not worry about it dying on me. I need 1+ hours for an emergency flashlight.

3) The Low dome (Batwing) configuration is actually not as focused beam as the High dome (Lambertian). In fact this is a plus, since I prefer a wider beam to see a bigger area in front me. If I'm walking I want to see the rock before I trip over it. Going to the High dome and NX05 generates a tight beam. Using the Fraen LP in place of the NX05 would collect even more photons and direct it to the center beam.


THE ONLY WAY TO SEE TINT AND COLOR IS TO SHINE IT ON A WHITE WALL. IS THIS HOW WE ALL USE OUR FLASHLIGHTS?

I thought we bought flashlights to light our way through the dark. I must be missing something here.

To be honest here a single 5mm light IMHO is still awesome technology. Let's not lose site of reality. The Opalec Newbeam is a great light and it only has 3 5mm LEDs in it.
Wayne


[/ QUOTE ]

This post is NOT just about Wayne's sandwich modules, or what should go into a firefly, but about the brightness/runtime and Color of LED debate in general, and a trap that we should avoid falling into.


Issue 1- BRIGHTEST

I have to say that I did fall into this trap of always wanting the brightest. Who wouldn't, here on CPF. We are all "extremists" when it comes to flashlights.

After all, to my friends, neighbors, and family, I am known as the flashlight guy. I always have a flashlight on me, and when I KNOW I am going to need a flashlight, look out, I bring an arsonal. AND, when it happens, by chance, that SOMEONE ELSE in the group happens to have a brighter flashlight, that PISSES ME OFF! I go into a spending frenzey! HOW DARE someone have a brighter light than me!

Now intelectually, I know that, for an EDC light, there should be a good balance inbetween runtime and brightness, but emotionally, let's face it, it is HARD to impress your friends, neighbors, and family with long run time! We want the SHOCK and AWE of extreme brightness.

Well, something recently happened to me, that EMOTIONALLY changed my opinion of the brightness/runtime debate.

One of my favorite lights, is my Turnkey McLux. I almost always have that on me. Now I was secretly just a tad disappointed that the Turnkey McLux came with one of Wayne's BadBoy 400 modules. Heck, I thought to my self, why not use the BB500, or make a special 650 or 800 BB! That will really knock my socks off. If I buy a 3 gig PC, I am going to be thinking, "should I have purchased a 3.2 Gig? Think "TIM ALLEN" MORE POWER! Whatever rating it is, figure out a way to make it go up one more rating! Overclock it! OverDrive it, Arruuggghh Arrruugggghhhh!

Well, in the last week or two, I had to use my McLux, steady, for at least a half hour, or so, at least 3 times. The third time I used it, I was expcting it to die any moment, but it did not. I did not change the batteries, as I wanted to see how much longer it would run. ( Roy's McLux Runtime graph shows 2 hours!) but I did not know this, I thought it was only an hour.

A few days later, I was presented a situation where I needed to use my McLux again, for an extended time, (at least 45 minutes) and I remember thinking, "oh great, the battery will die any moment, and I will loose my status a supreme flashoholic!" Now, whatever it was, it was a serious situation, not something that one would laugh if the battery went dead. Well, it turned out that the light did not die, and I came off, still holding my flashoholic reputation!

Well, this taught me, via experience, that runtime is important too!

I have never been "dissatisfied" with the brightness of the McLux, actually, quite the contrary, it has always been bright enought for all the tasks that I needed it to do. But, I was NOW GLAD that the McLux had a 2 hour runtime, and was using the BB400, instead of the BB500!

Yes, I have known for years, that for EDC, a good balance of brightness/runtime should be achieved, but emotionally, I wanted the show off brighest light. NOW, after experiencing my McLux situation, I have to say, that EMOTIONALLY I want a good runtime on my EDC light. Just to clarify, if you have NOT seen the output of the McLux, it is just wonderful, and probably brighter than most, if not all, 1 watt Luxeon Star Low Dome lights available. {EDIT} I MEANT TO SAY ONE OF THE BRIGHTEST <font color="red"> COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE </font> lights!

ISSUE 2-COLOR of the LED
Most of the LED's that I have, both Nichia 5MM and the Luxeon Star have a slightly to (in some cases) extremely blue tint to them. And for most of us, either that color was more pleasing to us than an incandecent, or we accepted that color.

A little background.

My Dad worked for GE for most of his life, and I remember getting into a discussion about "WHITE REFERIGERATORS". Years ago, GE made pure white appliance, and they got complaints that the color seemed to look yellow. Well, they made them as white as they could be, but people were still complaining, so they added a little BLUE to their white paint, and they made a "whiter white" so to speak.

Now, again, my McLux is one of these lights that puts out a slight blue tint. I have never had a problem, or complaint in actually using the light.

Recently, I was lucky enough to have Wayne hand make me, as well as a few other people here on CPF (thanks Wayne) a R2 LED.

So, I popped that baby into a Brinkmann 2AA light, and put two fresh batteries into it, and WOW, was I impressed.


Very very nice, thanks Wayne.

So now, I start to compare it to my McLux, and an interesting thing happened.

First of all, let me state again, that I am VERY VERY happy with my McLux, and the MM+ R2 sandwich also impressed me a LOT.

BUT, when I started comparing the two, side by side, something interesting happened-I started liking one more, and one less, but they alternated inbetween the two!

WHAT?

First, my McLux was TOO BLUE! Wahhhhhaa? I never noticed that before, it always seemed just fine to me, but NO, it was TOO BLUE!

I continued to do comparisons, and then, all of a sudden my opinion changed. "The McLux is just fine!" the R2 Sandwich is too white, almost a tinge of yellow." (I swear, I was not drinking, OK, maybe just a little).

I put one down, and used ONLY ONE, and all my problems went away. BOTH OF THEM WERE JUST WONDERFUL!

It reminded me of shopping for stereo speakers, and having the choices narrowed down to two or three choices, all from premium, well respected speaker companies. I came to the conclusion that they ALL were good speakers, and I would be very happy with any of those three selections. And, I was comparing then against each other, not against the original source.

I am at work, so I need to finish this, but I hope this starts some useful discussion.

One of the original "dim/long run time lights, was the CMG Infinity. a single 5mm light is pretty dim, making it dimmer on purpose did not seem to make sense to me, but when dealing with a luxeon star or equivalent, you are already dealing with a much brighter source, so "dim" is a relative term.
 
BuddTX,

Very good points.
I think I agree with all that you have stated.

I also find myself always wanting the brightest and whitest. But, thats mainly cuz I just HAVE to have the very BEST. If I know something else is alittle better than what I have, then I fell mine is subpar. Even though I may be perfectly happy with mine at the time.

You have a good point about comparring lights side by side. While this may be good for determining which is actually the overall better light, this isnt good for determining "real world" use. You can be completely happy with a light, and never notice a off white color during use, then compare it to a WHITE light, and be sickened by its off white color.

Brightness: Over the past month I have come to the realization, that the brightest is not ALWAYS the best.
I have a few light mods comming up, and was deciding what mA converters I wanted to use. I found myself comming to my sences and selecting slightly lower mA converters, so that I could get more usable runtime out of the lights.
Lets face it people, if you jump from 700mA to 1000mA, and are only getting alittle more birghtness, but you took off an hour of runtime, its really not worth it.
Sure, I want at least one or two lights that are designed for MAX brightness, for intermediate use, and dont care about the runtime on them.
But, for "real world" use, alittle less brightness, for alot more runtime is always a good trade off. Especially when these lights are using expensive 123 cells.

The same sort of thing has happened to me when deciding between flood and throw.
MOST of the time, I want throw. I hate a light that cant shine to the other side of the yard, or across the street, to see what that noise was.
The bad thing is, how often do you do that? Most the time I find I am using my lights for illuminating objects 15 foot or closer. For this, a nice flood beam is what you need. The NX05 optics seems to be a good compromize. My Arc LSH-P with throw pretty well for its size, but still has enough spill light to be useful in close situations.

The main light, that has really proved all of this is my new Arc AA. WOW what a nice useful light. Its sidespill is alot wider and brighter than the Arc AAA. This makes it GREAT for close up work. In the house, with all the lights out, its amazing how much light this little light put out.
Easily enough to walk around, read, or even illuminate an entire room with a soft flood of light.
And, it has excellent runtime. For its purpose, the Arc AA would actually not be as nice, if it were alot brighter, and had alot less runtime. ... OK, so, thats not going to stop me from eventually making a 1W head for it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif But, you get my point, I hope.

As said before, each light has its own purpose. Dont expect a light to be great for any situation, just cuz its BRIGHT.
Sure, a PR Mclux with a 5Wer is BRIGHT, and NICE,,, but, would you want that to be the only light you have if stuck in a power outage?
 
Good post!

You know, for decades, we as a society have put up with different "colors of light". Incandecent vs Flourscent.

We have accepted both. Yes, a romantic restaurant might not choose flourscent as their lighting scheme, but their kitchen in the back probably uses florscent!
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

BuddTX,

Good points. I wonder which will come first. Wide availability of super bright LED's which are just too bright for typical task lighting or varible output levels in flashlights so a really bright LED can be used in a dimmed mode. At some point in the future, we will have too much light available for many tasks; frankly I think we have been there for quite a while already.

Bragging rights with white spots on the wall is one thing. Using a flashlight for *real* reasons is quite another!

Onward we go..............
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

basically you have to chose wisely which light to carry as an EDC ... in this category I think runtime and a good flood beam will be the most desireable features for most of us.
lights for special purposes are another matter though, but I have to admit that in my life I rarely ever need a really bright light.
so, I find myself using my little lights much more than the heavy hitters and have chosen an Arc LS as EDC as the best compromise, sometimes backed up by a 5W 2x123 light. anything bigger or brighter is very nice for the flashaholic in me, but has no actual use.
I love my 35W HID, but I only play with it, I do not really use it.

so, there's "need" and "hobby" to be seperated here. IMHO "need" is paired with "reason" and "hobby" with the power-hungry beast inside the head of the flashaolic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bernhard
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

[ QUOTE ]
kiessling said:

so, there's "need" and "hobby" to be seperated here. IMHO "need" is paired with "reason" and "hobby" with the power-hungry beast inside the head of the flashaolic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bernhard

[/ QUOTE ]


Well said! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
 
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Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

Excellent points, hence my sig....
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

I have compromised my desires. I'm finding a wide beam better than a narrow beam. I'm crazy about the L4! Yes, it's kiler bright--it's the warmest Luxeon I have (the KL1 is the most purple). I have an Arc sLS, Lambda Ill Pill, Lambda Illuminator. I use the Illuminator and the SL 4AA LED (early) the most around the house. I use the L4 the most overall.

I solve the L4 loss of power by keeping a pair of 123s in another pocket--anyone have any suggestions for a good carrier? Right now, they are rubber-banded together. I also keep spare 123s in my go-everywhere bag.

The L4 is not a do-everything light. That's why I have so many, but as a first light to grab it's bright enough, broad enough, and has good color rendering with a very smooth beam.

On the other side of reach and run time, I keep a KL1 on an E2e body and a SL TL-3 incandescent in my go-everywhere bag and an Arc AAA LE on my keychain.

I like Double A's sig! I find while wowed by the spotlights, I don't use them often outside of showing them off. I sold one but kept the banana.

The TL-3 right now is becoming a good long-reach flashlight for me. The SRTH reaches better, but I care if it's lost/damaged.

We are spoiled with old flashlights because they had very good reach, relatively speaking...but with 1-3/4-inch reflectors had very little spill. The 2D/PR2 system defined flashlights for 50 years in many ways.

Cheers,

Richard
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

Good points all,
I EDC two flashlights to solve the flood VS spot and small VS a little larger. My Micro is nice and small with a very wide flood beam to checking things close up and general darkness use. The minimag BB500 R2H Fraen LP is used at work to see things in lighted areas and to have a long distance throw.
OK, some disaster strikes and I need some form of light for 8 hours. The R2H will go into "moon" mode for around 4 hours and the Micro several hours itself. If you are stuck in the dark for several hourse, the light given off by a Luxeon in direct drive mode should be plenty to see with.
My run time king is the Anglelux 2D, 24 hours of voltage regulated brightness with several days of "moon" mode. I can see having small bright lights as long as a long run time light is in the arsenal. It is all a question of balance and knowing the lunatics that buy the parts.
I think people that post to internet forums talking about flashlights and go out and build them....I think we fell off the Bell curve.
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

Excellent observations, BuddTX! White is often overrated, and how each person perceives a light as white could all be relative. I mean, shine a couple of white led lights on a wall and ask a non-flashaholic what they see, I'd think 9 out of 10 would just say 'White'. Ask a flashaholic and you will get launched into a lengthy discussion about Luxeon Lottery, Cat green urine (that's Craig's trademark comment btw), etc..

I thought I knew which one of my lights (not that many LED lights) were white until I got a bunch of the $1 pocket lights from CountyComm. I tested out all of them to make sure they were working and also to separate the 'white' from the 'not so white' and Boy, did I have problems after the first 5... What I thought was white showed up whiter the next one, and a bluish/violet tinge could be interpretated as very white compared to one with a slight yellowish tinge. As well, a yellowish tinge could be seen as very white compared to a greenish tinge. I gave up separating those lights after the first 15 or so I think.

Which had me thinking... does it really matter if my EDC is pure white or not? If I spent $15-25 for a light that's small enough for EDC, and it has a slight violet tinge to it, but gives me at least 5 hours of bright light at max brightness, and many more dependable hours of usable light to follow, what would it matter if its white or not? So long as you have a light with you at the moment that you need one, it doesn't really matter if its white or not, it only matters if you have a one that works or not.

On the other hand, if I paid a larger amount of $ for a light, say >$100, there is an expectation that I would want it to be perfect, i.e. pure white. Having said that, the issue of which one is whiter than which comes into play again, hence it sorta turns out to be like a chicken and egg situation... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I am currently EDCing an Arc AAA and my E1e/KL1, sometimes together with the Ultra G as well, depending on where and when I'm going out. Between the 3, I would venture to say none of them are pure white, but it doesn't matter to me anymore, cos to a non-flashaholic it will look white anyway, and to me I still get to save the day (if it so requires) regardless of the tinge of the light! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Well, again, great observations Budd, and judging from everyone else's posts here so far, I think on the whole, we all see eye to eye on this matter too...
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

Run times aside a bright light can provide all the illuminative uses of a dimmer light; this is simply not true of the opposite scenario...

Of course, the better solution still would be an ADJUSTABLE light...
 
Re: Is brightest/whitest always the best for EDC l

[ QUOTE ]
MR Bulk said:
Run times aside a bright light can provide all the illuminative uses of a dimmer light; this is simply not true of the opposite scenario...


[/ QUOTE ]


OK I agree up to a point. If we are talking about SIMILAR lights, say the brightest 1 watt Luxeon Star (I wonder who makes claim to that statement? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif) to a medium bright 1 watt LS with a longer run time, I would agree, but if you had a light that was soo bright, you lost your night vision.

The nice thing about using a tiny light like the ARC AAA, is that you maintain almost ALL of your night vision, thereby allowing your eye to take in more light, thereby making your eye "help" the ARC produce more light.

If I could have an keychain sized Optronics 2 mil CP light on my keychain, I think that would be a case where "too bright" would be true!

(But, how many here would have one? I would!)
 

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