Anyone ever used one of these laser edge finders? Are they any good?
laser edge finders
- Thread starter Icarus
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bluwolf
Newly Enlightened
I have one. Here's the homepage for the company that makes it.
http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/
I only glanced at the LMS page that you posted. But it seems that the polarizing lense is an accessory, I could be wrong. On the company's page all the lasers come with the polarizing attachment. It really does help. It can make the dot very small. The compromise is that it also get fainter.
I wouldn't use it to build space shuttle parts. But the stuff I make isn't either. It really is great for "quick and dirty" set ups that only need to be within a couple of thousandths.
You have to take your time dialing it in when you first get it. Like anything else, garbage in, garbage out. If you don't spend the time in the beginning it will never be of any real use.
Mike
http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/
I only glanced at the LMS page that you posted. But it seems that the polarizing lense is an accessory, I could be wrong. On the company's page all the lasers come with the polarizing attachment. It really does help. It can make the dot very small. The compromise is that it also get fainter.
I wouldn't use it to build space shuttle parts. But the stuff I make isn't either. It really is great for "quick and dirty" set ups that only need to be within a couple of thousandths.
You have to take your time dialing it in when you first get it. Like anything else, garbage in, garbage out. If you don't spend the time in the beginning it will never be of any real use.
Mike
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Does this question mean that you have a lathe? :devil:
I'm sure that the real machinists, such as those on Practical Machinist, will say that there are better and more accurate edge finders that can be used, but if you aren't making parts for NASA, then that edge finder is probably OK.
gadget_lover
Flashaholic
I do not like shining lasers at shiny metal surfaces that I'm staring at intensely.
The traditional edge finders work fine, and they are much cheaper and more accurate. I find the dot too big to accurately find the center.
If I wanted to align a quill with something a few feet away, I might consider lasers.
Daniel
The traditional edge finders work fine, and they are much cheaper and more accurate. I find the dot too big to accurately find the center.
If I wanted to align a quill with something a few feet away, I might consider lasers.
Daniel
Judging by his mods in the past two years or so, I think Freddy must have a mill & a lathe, or access to them.
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yeah, good point, but I haven't seen him mentioning his lathe.
We need pics, of course. :devil:
We need pics, of course. :devil:
Would need a magic staff to make things like this without a lathe and a mill… :nana:
precisionworks
Flashaholic
Nice work, Icarus 
IMO, it's really hard to beat the mechanical offset type edge finder, like those made by Starrett or Hermann Schmidt
https://www.hschmidt.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=8&idproduct=148
http://www.starrett.com/pages/1512_t_and_r_edge_finder.cfm
The Starrett is about $25, the Schmidt is $45. I would cry if the Schmidt got dropped, but have done far worse to the Starrett.
(Starrett will also email newletters if you want. Here's an archived listing: http://www.starrett.com/pages/1523_last_word_archive.cfm)
IMO, it's really hard to beat the mechanical offset type edge finder, like those made by Starrett or Hermann Schmidt
https://www.hschmidt.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=8&idproduct=148
http://www.starrett.com/pages/1512_t_and_r_edge_finder.cfm
The Starrett is about $25, the Schmidt is $45. I would cry if the Schmidt got dropped, but have done far worse to the Starrett.
(Starrett will also email newletters if you want. Here's an archived listing: http://www.starrett.com/pages/1523_last_word_archive.cfm)
Now, where is yours... :thinking:
wquiles
Flashaholic
I actually have that same one, and it has worked great for me for the last 2 years or so, but I use it to locate/align the drill to a center mark on the piece, not for finding the edge of the piece. To me this laser finder is easy to use, fast, and very accurate for the work I have done so far.
I should also add that I have never used the mechanical edge finder, so I can't compare the two of them.
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm sure I've posted this before, but it is here. It can do some milling as well, since the headstock moves up and down.
precisionworks
Flashaholic
Will, since you don't use a laser to find edge, nor a mechanical finder, what do you use? I've used a wiggler on occasion, when the mechanical finder couldn't reach the edge of a large diameter part, but don't know of other edge finding methods.
How about an electronic edge finder, like the kind that lights up? I never used one, do they require the spindle to spin when finding the edge? Or even an indicator but a conventional edge finder would be easier than this.
precisionworks
Flashaholic
You are right, I forgot about that :sigh:
I don't believe there's any fast or easy way to center the tip of a dial test indicator so that the tip (ball contact) is coaxial with spindle dead center.
There is the optical centering scope that can also be used to find edge. One of those will eventually pop up on eBay & get snagged, but that hasn't happened yet. They are rated +/- .0001"
Another tool (not used by itself) is the magnetic edge finder, also good for +/- .0001"
That model is made by Flexbar. The one on the left (above) is used by touching off both sides of the slot, where the one on the right is used by picking up center of the hole in the tool.
wquiles
Flashaholic
Basically, I find the edge the same way I do it on the lathe - I just bring the cutter I will be using towards the edge I want to start cutting, and turn the spindle by hand until it barely touches - that is my zero. Now that I have the VFD and I can have the spindle run at 10-15 RPM's, it is even easier as I can just hear as the cutter is barely touching the part.
Am I the only one that finds the edge this way?
precisionworks
Flashaholic
That is a common method in Third World countries, but it isn't often done by anyone who can afford a $20 edge finder
Even the low cost Starrett will find the edge to +/- .0005" or better. If the edge is approached slowly, it's easy to repeat .0002". Not quite as good as the really fancy stuff, but close enough for Space Shuttle parts
The problem with touching a sharp tool to the part edge is that the tool has to cut just a little to make the faint noise indicating contact. Maybe it cuts .0001", but that could just as easily be .0010". On top of that, if the part needs machining on more than one face, resetting the part adds additional error. The part has to be touched (cut) by exactly the same amount as it was cut the first time. To do that is next to impossible.
wquiles
Flashaholic
That is a common method in Third World countries, but it isn't often done by anyone who can afford a $20 edge finder
Even the low cost Starrett will find the edge to +/- .0005" or better. If the edge is approached slowly, it's easy to repeat .0002". Not quite as good as the really fancy stuff, but close enough for Space Shuttle parts
The problem with touching a sharp tool to the part edge is that the tool has to cut just a little to make the faint noise indicating contact. Maybe it cuts .0001", but that could just as easily be .0010". On top of that, if the part needs machining on more than one face, resetting the part adds additional error. The part has to be touched (cut) by exactly the same amount as it was cut the first time. To do that is next to impossible.
Once I get the DRO installed then I don't have to worry about the inaccurate dials on my mill, but until then I am missing something here.
The mechanical edge finders that I have seen are typically 1/2" dia. Say I use that and I find the edge to within 0.0001". Then without moving anything, I remove the edge finder and install my 1" cutter. Now I am 0.500" too deep from the real edge, so I now have to move the table away "exactly" 0.500" in order to be dead-on the edge again, right?
I know that the dials on my mill are "not" that good/accurate, so as a newbie, it looks like finding the edge with a mechanical edge finder would work perfectly "only if" the diameter of the edge finder would be exactly the diameter of the cutting tool you want to use. Otherwise you would need a DRO to accurately (say about 0.0002" for glass scales) move the table back to the "edge" to be cut.
I know I am missing something, and this is exactly why I have yet to use a mechanical edge finder. Some help please
Atlascycle
Newly Enlightened
Typically an edge finder is used to align the center line of the spindle to the edge of the part. You first touch off of the edge of your part with the edge finder and then move half of the diameter of the edge finder to center the spindle and then zero the table dials, if you have a dro installed you can sometimes enter the offset into the dro instead of having to move over and then re-zero. Then you move to acount for the diameter of the cutter, if you are not trying to put any holes on location and instead are trying to square the edge then the edge finder is not really nessecary, you can just touch off with your cutter and then make a light cut, zero the dials, measure and then go from there. YMMV
Jason
Jason
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gadget_lover
Flashaholic
The idea of a mechanical edge finder is to find the exact edge in relation to the center of the spindle. It's then up to the operator to know the exact diameter of his tools. Fresh tools are supposed to be the stated diameter. Sharpened or used tooling... well, who knows?
OTOH... there is an old trick for finding the edge with a running tool. Put a Zigzag cigarette paper against the edge you will be working on. The paper is a fairly consistent thickness. When you bite into the paper it will be whipped out of the way.
Knowing the true location of the edge will make the DRO even more usable.
Daniel
OTOH... there is an old trick for finding the edge with a running tool. Put a Zigzag cigarette paper against the edge you will be working on. The paper is a fairly consistent thickness. When you bite into the paper it will be whipped out of the way.
Knowing the true location of the edge will make the DRO even more usable.
Daniel
FlaCracker
Newly Enlightened
I've used this one for some time now and it does a good job. No need to spin the spindle. The only drawback is the workpiece (as well as the vise and jaws) have to be conductive.
