LD11 or D25A clicky?

[trailblazer295]

Hey guys

I'm looking to expand and round out my collection of flashlights. I will have a LD01 on my keys (need to clean the threads) and I'm looking at buying and LD32 to run 18650 for more power over my quark. I'm looking for a light between the 2 if I want more light than a keychain but don't want to carry the larger LD32 all the time. Looking at lights with pocketclips that run a single AA eneloop or 14500 cell. I've been looking at both the LD11 and D25A clicky. Which is the better light in terms of UI? Performance? Ease of use? Any other light I should be considering?

Thanks

 

[LeanBurn]

What about the ThruNite Archer 1A V3?

 

[mcnair55]

D25A without any doubt in my mind.UI is easy peezy and you get a proper moon mode.

 

[gurdygurds]

I had to go through 3 D25A clickys before I got one that worked properly and even then had one die after a small drop, so in my experience they aren't very robust. Other folks swear by them so maybe luck of the draw? Now Fenix lights I've had have proven to be much more stout. The LD11 is a great light with a simple UI. That's the route I'd go between the two.

 

[ronniepudding]

D25A supports 14500... sort of. Eagletac says "Using 4.2V li-ion direct drives the LED and yields maximum output at the expense of extensive heat generated from the LED. Limit each usage to less than fives minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Active cooling (blowing cool air toward the light) or passive cooling (holding the light in your hand) helps preventing excessive heat built at the LED. Turn off the light to allow it to cool down if you find the flashlight too hot to hold. Do not leave the light running unattended with li-ion. During direct drive, output at low and medium mode will be higher than normal." I think this is just lawyerly disclaimer, and that many folks around here use 14500s in D25A clickys successfully, especially with later 2015+ models.

L11c, not so much. L3 Illumination says "14500 batteries are not recommeded (sic), because they heat up quickly." This is anecdotal, but I get the sense that the L11c is not widely run with 14500 by the CPF cognoscenti. (Could be wrong... if so, I'm sure someone will jump in.)

D25A clicky has mode groups controlled by tightening/loosening the head. So you can dial in low or high before turning on the light. If you're the sort of person who usually wants high output immediately, then that's probably going to be the deciding factor for you between these two. L11c always starts on low.

On the D25A clicky, mode memory is user configurable; it can be toggled on or off by doing three quick head-twists. Also, the user can turn Moonlight mode on or off with a similar procedure. Basically, the D25A UI is much more feature-rich than the L11c -- which has only one mode group, and no mode memory (configurable or otherwise). When you purchase an L11c, you have to decide if you want Moonlight. If you buy one with Moonlight, it cannot be disabled, and the light will always turn on in Moonlight after having been off for ~6 seconds.

Which reminds me, probably the biggest negative with the L11c is the really long wait time (~6 seconds) to reset to Moon/Low. D25A resets to low much faster, in a second or two.

IMHO, the mode spacing on the L11c is better than the D25A, especially when the Eagletac has Moonlight turned on. My D25A clicky exhibits some mild preflash on low (when moonlight mode is turned off). Some have noted PWM (or PWM-like effects) on D25A's lower modes, especially when the battery is running low, but this has not been an issue for me.

Otherwise, both lights are really nice. The L11c is usually ~$10 cheaper ($35 vs. $45). Factoring in price, I'd be hard-pressed to choose between them.

 

[eaglemax]

D25A I support as well.

 

[trailblazer295]

D25A supports 14500... sort of. Eagletac says "Using 4.2V li-ion direct drives the LED and yields maximum output at the expense of extensive heat generated from the LED. Limit each usage to less than fives minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Active cooling (blowing cool air toward the light) or passive cooling (holding the light in your hand) helps preventing excessive heat built at the LED. Turn off the light to allow it to cool down if you find the flashlight too hot to hold. Do not leave the light running unattended with li-ion. During direct drive, output at low and medium mode will be higher than normal." I think this is just lawyerly disclaimer, and that many folks around here use 14500s in D25A clickys successfully, especially with later 2015+ models.

L11c, not so much. L3 Illumination says "14500 batteries are not recommeded (sic), because they heat up quickly." This is anecdotal, but I get the sense that the L11c is not widely run with 14500 by the CPF cognoscenti. (Could be wrong... if so, I'm sure someone will jump in.)

D25A clicky has mode groups controlled by tightening/loosening the head. So you can dial in low or high before turning on the light. If you're the sort of person who usually wants high output immediately, then that's probably going to be the deciding factor for you between these two. L11c always starts on low.

On the D25A clicky, mode memory is user configurable; it can be toggled on or off by doing three quick head-twists. Also, the user can turn Moonlight mode on or off with a similar procedure. Basically, the D25A UI is much more feature-rich than the L11c -- which has only one mode group, and no mode memory (configurable or otherwise). When you purchase an L11c, you have to decide if you want Moonlight. If you buy one with Moonlight, it cannot be disabled, and the light will always turn on in Moonlight after having been off for ~6 seconds.

Which reminds me, probably the biggest negative with the L11c is the really long wait time (~6 seconds) to reset to Moon/Low. D25A resets to low much faster, in a second or two.

IMHO, the mode spacing on the L11c is better than the D25A, especially when the Eagletac has Moonlight turned on. My D25A clicky exhibits some mild preflash on low (when moonlight mode is turned off). Some have noted PWM (or PWM-like effects) on D25A's lower modes, especially when the battery is running low, but this has not been an issue for me.

Otherwise, both lights are really nice. The L11c is usually ~$10 cheaper ($35 vs. $45). Factoring in price, I'd be hard-pressed to choose between them.

Thanks for the comparison and detail but I've never heard of the L11c. I was asking about Fenix LD11.

 

[Str8stroke]

D25A, I own both the lights you speak of. At the end of the day, I like the UI of the D25A. Not to even mention, you can get the D25 in Gods Metal, Ti. IMHO: It is well worth the few extra $$ to upgrade. If you do, you will have a really unique light that looks as good as it performs.

Boring other reading material:
I also think you would find the LD11 kinda chunky for a keychain light. The D25 has a slightly more streamline design. I would call it more keychain friendly. Also, you may find the twist/click UI of the D25 is easier to wrangle on your keys vs just a tail click UI. Imagine using the D25 and the LD11 with keys attached. If you click the D25 on, you can then palm the keys and manipulate the modes using a twist of the head. VS the LD11, where you have to keep trying to click the rear switch to change modes. Just a thought.

Another way of thinking about it. Lets say the performance and quality are equal: The Fenix has more of a tactical look (which you may want?), while the D25ATi can have that tactical UI with a classy EDC look. I like that the D25Ti is just at home in work attire as it is camping. I am not sure if you have ever owned a Titanium light, but it is hard to describe how it feels in ones hands. To me feel of a light is important, and the D25Ti is a show real stopper.

A footnote on potential D25 "problems:. I have owned 5 of the D25 lights. I think I still have 3? Anyways, the only issue I have ever had was that the light needed the threads & switch cleaned rather often. I find it is a tad more sensitive to dirty threads or switches than others. It could be that I carried it in my lint filled pockets often, and the twist UI design? Either way, it was no big deal. I also wonder if the UI is hard for some folks. Meaning a operator error could be to blame for some of the issues or problems people report they have.

To me: the Fenix is just another 14500 compatible AA light, the D25A, in Ti, is in a whole different class of lights. Either light, you will likely be happy with your purchase. Another idea, buy both if you can afford it, then sell or gift the one you least like???

Bottom line for me: The D25ATi is one of my favorite AA lights and I own tons of them. If you shop it, you can sometimes find the previous year model D25Ti on sale. I think I bought my 2014 model last December 2015 from Going Gear for $39.95. It was cool white tint (all that was left), but that is a smoking deal. I know a few other members here snagged one too. They are sold out now, but shop around is what I am suggesting. From what I recall, GG does that sale at the end of each year. If they do it again this year, I am going to pick up the 2015 model. lol

Hope that helps give you some extra things to think about. Good luck my friend.

 

[eaglemax]

D25A, I own both the lights you speak of. At the end of the day, I like the UI of the D25A. Not to even mention, you can get the D25 in Gods Metal, Ti. IMHO: It is well worth the few extra $$ to upgrade. If you do, you will have a really unique light that looks as good it performs.

Boring other reading material:
I also think you would find the LD11 kinda chunky for a keychain light. The D25 has a slightly more streamline design. I would call it more keychain friendly. Also, you may find the twist/click UI of the D25 is easier to wrangle on your keys vs just a tail click UI. Imagine using the D25 and the LD11 with keys attached. If you click the D25 on, you can then palm the keys and manipulate the modes using a twist of the head. VS the LD11, where you have to keep trying to click the rear switch to change modes. Just a thought.

Another way of thinking about it. Lets say the performance and quality are equal: The Fenix has more of a tactical look (which you may want?), while the D25ATi can have that tactical UI with a classy EDC look. I like that the D25Ti is just at home in work attire as it is camping. I am not sure if you have ever owned a Titanium light, but it is hard to describe how it feels in ones hands. To me feel of a light is important, and the D25Ti is a show real stopper.

A footnote on potential D25 "problems:. I have owned 5 of the D25 lights. I think I still have 3? Anyways, the only issue I have ever had was that the light needed the threads & switch cleaned rather often. I find it is a tad more sensitive to dirty threads or switches than others. It could be that I carried it in my lint filled pockets often, and the twist UI design? Either way, it was no big deal. I also wonder if the UI is hard for some folks. Meaning a operator error could be to blame for some of the issues or problems people report they have.

To me: the Fenix is just another 14500 compatible AA light, the D25A, in Ti, is in a whole different class of lights. Either light, you will likely be happy with your purchase. Another idea, buy both if you can afford it, then sell or gift the one you least like???

Bottom line for me: The D25ATi is one of my favorite AA lights and I own tons of them. If you shop it, you can sometimes find the previous year model D25Ti on sale. I think I bought my 2014 model last December 2015 from Going Gear for $39.95. It was cool white tint (all that was left), but that is a smoking deal. I know a few other members here snagged one too. They are sold out now, but shop around is what I am suggesting. From what I recall, GG does that sale at the end of each year. If they do it again this year, I am going to pick up the 2015 model. lol

Hope that helps give you some extra things to think about. Good luck my friend.

I own 3 and after reading that want a TI version.

 

[Str8stroke]

I own 3 and after reading that want a TI version.

The D25CTi was my first Titanium light. I had the Aluminum version first. I was so impressed by it, I picked up a used Ti. All I can say, is they are totally different lights in terms of looks and feel. Nothing, I mean nothing feels like Ti in your hands. Plus to me, as you use a HAIII coated aluminum light, it scratches and starts to look bad. As you use a Ti light, the scratches give it character! It begins to look better in time! Also, you have so many options with Ti. You can anodize it at home with heat or electricity, you can polish it to a high sheen, you scuff it to a matte finish with steel wool, you can tumble it with rocks, you can bead blast it, engrave it. You get the idea.

 

[eaglemax]

The D25CTi was my first Titanium light. I had the Aluminum version first. I was so impressed by it, I picked up a used Ti. All I can say is they are totally different lights in terms of looks and feel. Nothing, I mean nothing feels like Ti in your hands. Plus to me, as you use an HAIII coated aluminum light, it scratches and starts to look bad. As you use a Ti light, the scratches give it character! It begins to look better in time! Also, you have so many options with Ti. You can anodize it at home with heat or electricity, you can polish it to a high sheen, you scuff it to a matte finish with steel wool, you can tumble it with rocks, you can blast it, engrave it. You get the idea.

Presume then I could have it powder coated.

 

[ronniepudding]

Thanks for the comparison and detail but I've never heard of the L11c. I was asking about Fenix LD11.

Whoops, sorry about that! Not sure how I misread ...

 

[1DaveN]

I like my old LD11 well enough (and would especially like the ability to use 14500 in the new version). However, I ended up preferring the PD25 over any of the AA lights I tried. It's only a little bigger than the LD11, with a side mode switch I prefer, and longer run times using CR123A (and it'll take a 16340).

 

[KeepingItLight]

Thanks for the comparison and detail but I've never heard of the L11c. I was asking about Fenix LD11.

This sort of accidental confusion is one of the reasons why I like to give both the make and model of a flashlight the first time I mention it in one of my posts.

I started doing this as a newbie here, and have continued the practice. So, that's another reason. I have always felt that it is a little cliquish to supply only a cryptic model number. Sure, flashaholics will understand, but newcomers are frequently left in the dark.

I also like to use boldface in the first mention. So, Fenix LD11 and Eagletac D25A is how I would introduce these two flashlights.

For the sake of newbies, I also like to give the full model name the first time I mention a flashlight. That way, anyone can look up a flashlight in a search engine, such as StartPage, to learn more. With cumbersome names like ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III Plus, I sometimes feel I am punishing myself, but I think there is less confusion in the long run.

If, for instance, I were to leave off the Nichia part when recommending the L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B (4-mode) flashlight, folks might end up buying the Cree version.

Can't have that!

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

D25A, unless you want something that really puts out a search light, D25Cvn. I have three and never been left in the dark...

 

[tops2]

Whoops, sorry about that! Not sure how I misread ...

This sort of accidental confusion is one of the reasons why I like to give both the make and model of a flashlight the first time I mention it in one of my posts.

I started doing this as a newbie here, and have continued the practice. So, that's another reason. I have always felt that it is a little cliquish to supply only a cryptic model number. Sure, flashaholics will understand, but newcomers are frequently left in the dark.

I also like to use boldface in the first mention. So, Fenix LD11 and Eagletac D25A is how I would introduce these two flashlights.

For the sake of newbies, I also like to give the full model name the first time I mention a flashlight. That way, anyone can look up a flashlight in a search engine, such as StartPage, to learn more. With cumbersome names like ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III Plus, I sometimes feel I am punishing myself, but I think there is less confusion in the long run.

If, for instance, I were to leave off the Nichia part when recommending the L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B (4-mode) flashlight, folks might end up buying the Cree version.

Can't have that!

Lol..when I first read the thread, I thought it was the L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B (4-mode).

 

[reppans]

I like the D25A Ti's because it has a better selection of low lows (for the longest runtimes), steady "warning" blinkies that I might actually use (eg bicycling), the UIs are nice (short press cycle brighter, long press back to low), and the head design is one of the easiest to rig to run on any battery (if in a pinch).

On the down side, the clip is weak (careful not to over bend this one), the lower modes shift ~5x output on higher voltage CRAAs or 14500s (no buck driver), and I wouldn't trust it in a water test.

Never owned a Fenix since they tend to make throwy lights with closely spaced high modes, while I prefer the opposite, but they do make a quality product.

 

[trailblazer295]

D25A, I own both the lights you speak of. At the end of the day, I like the UI of the D25A. Not to even mention, you can get the D25 in Gods Metal, Ti. IMHO: It is well worth the few extra $$ to upgrade. If you do, you will have a really unique light that looks as good as it performs.

Boring other reading material:
I also think you would find the LD11 kinda chunky for a keychain light. The D25 has a slightly more streamline design. I would call it more keychain friendly. Also, you may find the twist/click UI of the D25 is easier to wrangle on your keys vs just a tail click UI. Imagine using the D25 and the LD11 with keys attached. If you click the D25 on, you can then palm the keys and manipulate the modes using a twist of the head. VS the LD11, where you have to keep trying to click the rear switch to change modes. Just a thought.

Another way of thinking about it. Lets say the performance and quality are equal: The Fenix has more of a tactical look (which you may want?), while the D25ATi can have that tactical UI with a classy EDC look. I like that the D25Ti is just at home in work attire as it is camping. I am not sure if you have ever owned a Titanium light, but it is hard to describe how it feels in ones hands. To me feel of a light is important, and the D25Ti is a show real stopper.

A footnote on potential D25 "problems:. I have owned 5 of the D25 lights. I think I still have 3? Anyways, the only issue I have ever had was that the light needed the threads & switch cleaned rather often. I find it is a tad more sensitive to dirty threads or switches than others. It could be that I carried it in my lint filled pockets often, and the twist UI design? Either way, it was no big deal. I also wonder if the UI is hard for some folks. Meaning a operator error could be to blame for some of the issues or problems people report they have.

To me: the Fenix is just another 14500 compatible AA light, the D25A, in Ti, is in a whole different class of lights. Either light, you will likely be happy with your purchase. Another idea, buy both if you can afford it, then sell or gift the one you least like???

Bottom line for me: The D25ATi is one of my favorite AA lights and I own tons of them. If you shop it, you can sometimes find the previous year model D25Ti on sale. I think I bought my 2014 model last December 2015 from Going Gear for $39.95. It was cool white tint (all that was left), but that is a smoking deal. I know a few other members here snagged one too. They are sold out now, but shop around is what I am suggesting. From what I recall, GG does that sale at the end of each year. If they do it again this year, I am going to pick up the 2015 model. lol

Hope that helps give you some extra things to think about. Good luck my friend.

I have never owned a Ti light but I have been considering going towards the Ti version if I do pick that light. This will be used as a pocket carry light. I like the clip of the D25a over the LD11 because it will sit lower in my jeans rather than poking out the top.

Whoops, sorry about that! Not sure how I misread ...

No worries I wasn't sure if it was me reading things wrong and had to double check I typed it correctly.

I like my old LD11 well enough (and would especially like the ability to use 14500 in the new version). However, I ended up preferring the PD25 over any of the AA lights I tried. It's only a little bigger than the LD11, with a side mode switch I prefer, and longer run times using CR123A (and it'll take a 16340).

I currently have 18650, 14500 and eneloops and only looking for lights that take these cells. Not really wanting to get into those cells but thanks.

This sort of accidental confusion is one of the reasons why I like to give both the make and model of a flashlight the first time I mention it in one of my posts.

I started doing this as a newbie here, and have continued the practice. So, that's another reason. I have always felt that it is a little cliquish to supply only a cryptic model number. Sure, flashaholics will understand, but newcomers are frequently left in the dark.

I also like to use boldface in the first mention. So, Fenix LD11 and Eagletac D25A is how I would introduce these two flashlights.

For the sake of newbies, I also like to give the full model name the first time I mention a flashlight. That way, anyone can look up a flashlight in a search engine, such as StartPage, to learn more. With cumbersome names like ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III Plus, I sometimes feel I am punishing myself, but I think there is less confusion in the long run.

If, for instance, I were to leave off the Nichia part when recommending the L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B (4-mode) flashlight, folks might end up buying the Cree version.

Can't have that!

Good point, I've been away from the forum for awhile and a bit rusty. Plus I figured seeing as I was asking between 2 specific models the people most likely to respond with input one way or the other would know which lights I was talking about. But others reading it because they might have a similar question or looking for a light with the same goals. You're right would have a hard time following along or finding it in search or buying the wrong light by mistake.

I like the D25A Ti's because it has a better selection of low lows (for the longest runtimes), steady "warning" blinkies that I might actually use (eg bicycling), the UIs are nice (short press cycle brighter, long press back to low), and the head design is one of the easiest to rig to run on any battery (if in a pinch).

On the down side, the clip is weak (careful not to over bend this one), the lower modes shift ~5x output on higher voltage CRAAs or 14500s (no buck driver), and I wouldn't trust it in a water test.

Never owned a Fenix since they tend to make throwy lights with closely spaced high modes, while I prefer the opposite, but they do make a quality product.

I like having strobe modes on an EDC or something to carry casually because I do drive etc so having a light for getting attention in an emergency is good. It might not be blinding from a mile away but it's bright enough that aimed at oncoming cars eyes it will get attention without blinding people.

 

[trailblazer295]

Looks like a D25a is the favourite, I have thought about it in the past and a Ti would be nice. Now I have a new question while browsing online suppliers I found they also have a CRI-92 Nicha 219 LED version as well as the XP-G2 R5 and XM-L2. Which emitter would you pick and why? I don't know enough about the emitters to determine the differences. I'm still trying to figure out the XP-L

 

[KeepingItLight]

Emitter preference is probably a personal choice.

In my case, I have enough small flashlights as it is. When I buy I new one, therefore, I tend towards high CRI. By that, I mean 90+ Ra. That way, my new flashlight will be an upgrade over a medium or low CRI model that I already own.

Love the Nichia 219B!