LED Light for an HK G36

[victory]

I'm 99.99% sure that the MP5 counts as an SBR for a variety of reasons, NOT a pistol.

Depends how it was classified when it was registered. If it was manufactured with a stock as a semi-auto SBR, then it requires a tax stamp even if you remove the stock. The similar SP89 was manufactured as a pistol and would only have to be registered as an SBR if you decided to add a stock to it.

Same kind of rules and regs that go into making AR-15 style pistols and rifles. It's fairly convoluted.

Anyway, i'm sure is far as the poster is concerned, all this stuff is registered on a form 10, so it's a moot point

 

[psdiver102]

Also doesn't hurt that the MP5 pictured is semi auto.

New production fully-automatic weapons were banned from private ownership under GOPA in 1986, not 1969

Your right, i get the dates mixed, i believe the import laws were in 69. Anywho, the G36 was developed long after teh laws went into effect.

Also, if the mp-5 was first registered as a pistol, it can be sold as such, with no tax stamps needed

 

[TMedina]

Not to mention straying off the topic.

The Larue always gets high marks - Surefire speaks for itself.

You could always go another route, but since you're talking about a premium product to outfit, I suspect anything less than premium wouldn't be fitting.

-Trevor

 

[jellydonut]

Out of curiosity - how do your lights in that case? I assume they are attached to the side of the long arm, so do you switch the grip on the gun to operate the light?

Thanks.

Cheers
Thorsten

You mount the light depending on your grip on the gun. If you do the 'guy on the bus' grip on your VFG you would place an offset mount on the right side of the gun so that the rear mounted activation would be ideally placed for your thumb. If you do the current recommended practice of 'grip and rip' with the hand far forward on the gun the light would be placed on the left side with the offset upwards. I'ma see if I can't find any pics..

(picture credit to 'tomalibrando', M4C)
Here's the light mounted such that it is activated by his thumb, according to his wraparound grip. He might have an easier time with a slightly offset mount that offsets it downwards (not too much though, that might just be annoying).

In this instance the grip has to be changed slightly, thumb has to cross over the handguard for activation. The light is more out of the way for the arguably more important part - shooting whatever needs shooting.

(Pictures credit to USMC03, M4C)
A shorter handguard makes this shooter grip around his light, but you can probably visualize how it would look on a longer one like in the previous pic. Light is very easy to access but you can see how you would have to like the grip it creates by being right there.

Both of the last guys have offset mounts, you can probably tell if you'd prefer that over an inline mount from the pics.

I assume your question was in worry of the light not being activated fast enough.. I think if you ask anyone who is an LEO, MIL or shooter instructor they will tell you it is more important to shoot than light stuff up with your gun mounted light. Not to mention that it is more important to avoid accidentally activating your light in a situation where you really don't want to put a beacon on your face than being able to activate your light faster than Lucky Luke's draw.

 

[Xacto]

@victory & jellydonut
Thanks for clearing that up, especially with the added pictures. One learns something new everyday.

[...]I assume your question was in worry of the light not being activated fast enough.. [...]

Well, not actually the speed of light activation but rather the ergonomics / possible need to change the grip you have on the gun to momentarily activate the light (repeated times).
After reading Ken J. Goods "The Strategies of Low-Light Engagements" and other similar literature that all stress the importance of not leaving the light on for anything longer than a quick look, I thought that using a light without cable and tape switch must by a problem. But thanks to your posts I now know better.

@FireGS
Nice equipment!

Cheers
Thorsten

 

[FireGS]

Hey there everyone! Thanks for the LOADS of replies, and I think the choice is obvious, as you all put it.

As for me, I'm not military or LEO. I'm a 21 year old Musician/IT Student from PA. Never been in the military, either.

As for the G36, yes - it IS a modded SL8-1. The rifle is Semi-auto only. The idea behind this is that theres usually two types of G36 conversions out there. One like mine, or one like this:

Look how much more length of pull there is on this common conversion!

On the conversion I have, the back section of the SL8 recevier is precision milled and the rear-stub of a demilled G36 is plastic welded (and reinforced with a steel plate) to the SL8 recevier. This process is very time consuming and extremely technical. It is not for the average do-it-yourselfer. To comply with Federal Law, the rear of the SL8 receiver is carefully trimmed off around the s/n plate as never to detach it from the receiver. This conversion style does require the recevier to be refinished during the conversion process. If you are on a budget or do not like the idea of having your receiver refinished, then this conversion style is not for you. The end result however, is the closest thing you can get to a cosmetically correct civillian-legal semi-auto G36.

Here's the details on how it's done:

The rear section: http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81580

The Mag well: http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112094

The cost:
$1400 for the Rifle.
$400 for the 922(r) parts.
$985 for the conversion parts.
$1500 for build cost, dye job, and return shipping

A 3 month wait, usually close to 9 months, but the builder and I worked out a deal.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Regarding the MP5, it's actually a semi-auto clone, built from an demilled MP5 Parts kit, on an LCS flat.

Theres my G36, my self-modded UMP clone, my MP5 clone, a Mark23, and a USP45 Tactical in that picture. Not pictured is my HK Imported M3 Super 90 shotgun, and my PTR-91 in a G3SG1 configuration.

Go ahead, ask me anything

~FireGS

 

[wyager]

Wow! It IS a modded SL8! Could have fooled me! That's pretty incredible-and pretty expensive. I imagine you will have no problem spending some money on a flashlight

 

[jellydonut]

Woah, those costs do add up for a single rifle. Is it your go-to rifle or a showpiece?

I suppose if you built that thing just because you think its cool/for collection purposes you might want to add something that complements it.. Like a LaRue twin mount with a Surefire Scout in one and an IR illuminator in the other.:devil:

 

[shipwreck]

Actually, I do have some light advice. It only concerns the "bright as hell, with as much throw as possible" comment.

EagleTac T20C2 MKII.

Yes, I have this mounted on my PS90 - It is the brightest light I've found at this size. I think primaries are the best way to go on a weapon light, but it can use rechargables.

They even make a weapon kit for it if you want a pressure switch.

I have mine mounted in 1 inch scope rings. I just wrapped the light once with electrical tape to keep the rings from scratching up the finish on the flashlight...

I may get around to buying another to replace the Inova on my MSAR:

 

[FireGS]

Woah, those costs do add up for a single rifle. Is it your go-to rifle or a showpiece?

I suppose if you built that thing just because you think its cool/for collection purposes you might want to add something that complements it.. Like a LaRue twin mount with a Surefire Scout in one and an IR illuminator in the other.:devil:

Its actually a bit of both. It's replaced my M4 as my go-to, but I still love to show it off

 

[wyager]

I may get around to buying another to replace the Inova on my MSAR:

If there's one cheap LED light that I trust on a weapon, it's my Inova X2. I could probably use that thing as a hammer and it wouldn't flinch. It took me a large vice and an adjustable wrench to even take the metal band on the front off, and I can't figure out how to disassemble it any further. Now it's not waterproof and the finish is messed up (sometimes sacrifices have to be made for science ), but you could still hammer with it and it would keep on chugging along.

Its actually a bit of both. It's replaced my M4 as my go-to, but I still love to show it off

I'm guessing ar-15, considering that you tricked us last time with your "G36"?

 

[shipwreck]

Well, it's an Inova XO - I like the 5 hour battery life. And, as it is the newest generation of the XO before it was discontinued, it's as bright as my 2009 version of the XO3 I have.

But before I switched to LEDs, I had a Xenon light that claimed to be 60 lumens, but that realistically starts dropping after the first 2-3 minutes.

 

[victory]

FireGS, That's an absolutely incredible replica. You fooled me and i've been up close and personal with the real ones. With all the cash you dropped on it, do it right. Pop the malkoff in you G2, larue mount and get yourself an Aimpoint T1. for the rail. That's one sick rifle.

Where are you at in PA? I'm actually a Temple alum.

 

[FireGS]

FireGS, That's an absolutely incredible replica. You fooled me and i've been up close and personal with the real ones. With all the cash you dropped on it, do it right. Pop the malkoff in you G2, larue mount and get yourself an Aimpoint T1. for the rail. That's one sick rifle.

Where are you at in PA? I'm actually a Temple alum.

As said, its 99.9% a factory G36 - its even engraved with factory markings, "G36K".

That's what I plan to do, Malkoff in a G2.

I'm about 50 miles north of Philly, in the Quakertown, Coopersburg, Center Valley area.

I'm guessing ar-15, considering that you tricked us last time with your "G36"?

Yes, technically an AR-15, but its a 14.5" M4 barrel w/ a permanent hider bringing it to 16.5".

 

[wyager]

Yes, technically an AR-15, but its a 14.5" M4 barrel w/ a permanent hider bringing it to 16.5".

Thought so. I was supposed to go shooting with the guy I mentioned earlier who was a class III dealer before I moved to TX, but the plan failed on the last day. I was that close to getting to use an automatic M4, G36, mac-11 .380, etc. (his house was covered in guns on every wall) it was a sad day.

 

[FireGS]

Can anyone tell me whats the deal with the Anto drop ins? They have almost 100 more lumens than the M61's. Any reason not to go with one of these?

 

[Schuey2002]

Wow! Nice SL8 conversion!

.

I wish I had the extra cash, I'd probably do the same thing to my SL8.. :mecry: Actually, I'd probably just buy a FN SCAR instead..

Anyhoo, as far was what light to use on your HK, I would go with a Malkoff M61 in a SureFire 6P body. It's what I have on my SL8 and it works great! I have it attached to a stock G36K forearm with a Viking Tactics mounts.

:wave:

 

[victory]

Can anyone tell me whats the deal with the Anto drop ins? They have almost 100 more lumens than the M61's. Any reason not to go with one of these?

I don't know anything about it, but i will say that the Malkoff's are tough and proven. I know of at least a few LE and military users rocking them.

Also, As you say this is your "go-to" rifle and not just a show piece, I'd be concerned about 100 extra lumens (if that figure is an any way realistic) on top of what the malkoff drop-in offers giving you way too much white-out/flash-back if used indoors. I have a malkoff drop in on my rifle (a previous generation drop-in at that) and i find the light from that can even be a bit intense in smaller rooms with lighter walls.

Frankly, i wouldn't be concerned about lighting up a football field with your rifle-mounted light. Bright, white light is a bullet magnet in wide open spaces and generally discouraged.

 

[FireGS]

I don't know anything about it.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/261801

Output:
MrGman and bigchelis confirmed the R4 variant had 306 OTF lumens & 287 lumens after 3 mins!
R5's should net ~320 OTF (approximation) with a higher Lux reading.

 

[fannin]

nice guns