Lifting a CREE or SSC for use in a Luxeon light

[Darell]

OK, folks. I was REALLY looking forward to this forum so I could ask this very question in the right spot.

First... be gentle with me. I remember discussion of this way long ago when the CREE and SSC units came out. But I was doing other things then and certainly didn't write anything down... and today I can't find the info. I've fooled around with the new emitters plenty, and love them. And now, after all this time, I'd like to go back into several of my old favorite lights, and upgrade the emitter in the most simple way.

So the big question, after all that - How high do I shim the XR-E or the P4 emitter to best utilize the reflectors that were optimized for the Lux3's? I seem to remember 0.02 or 0.03". The same for both emitters? Different? Or, is there now - as I suspect - exact drop-in reflector replacements for each size made by our man Don? Likely the better way to go?

Woo-ee, I'm behind the curve on this stuff. Can somebody hold my hand?

 

[IsaacHayes]

The shoppe has .03" shims for the SSC. Also the reflector will need to be shortened on the backside that much for perfect focus, but some may be ok as is but just not that tight of a spot. If the light has a "joker" luxeon reflector I think you use the .025" shim. The cree's need a whole new reflector as the beam angle is much narrower. The Mcr xx -XR reflectors work for that. Remember on the SSC to isolate the slug as it's connected to positive much like the red/amber/etc luxeons are. The XRE is a bit different package and you can isolate the bottom but it's a little harder to work with, but doesn't have tint shift or degrade and can take current and heat better than the SSC without turning blue. The SSC is ok up to 1000ma with good heatsinking, but I've not had luck pushing more than that to them without them shifting.

 

[Darell]

The shoppe has .03" shims for the SSC. Also the reflector will need to be shortened on the backside that much for perfect focus, but some may be ok as is but just not that tight of a spot. If the light has a "joker" luxeon reflector I think you use the .025" shim. The cree's need a whole new reflector as the beam angle is much narrower. The Mcr xx -XR reflectors work for that. Remember on the SSC to isolate the slug as it's connected to positive much like the red/amber/etc luxeons are. The XRE is a bit different package and you can isolate the bottom but it's a little harder to work with, but doesn't have tint shift or degrade and can take current and heat better than the SSC without turning blue. The SSC is ok up to 1000ma with good heatsinking, but I've not had luck pushing more than that to them without them shifting.

Thanks Isaac -

I've got some of the shims (both sizes since I didn't know what the heck went with what. I skipped the whole "Joker" phase, so I don't have to worry about that! I also have some of the McR XR's so I should be groovy there as well - at least for the lights these will fit in!

Yeah, I try to always isolate the slugs now. Too much confusion in the past from those issues!

Great info - thanks much!

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Darell,

If your "old favorites" have McRxx reflectors then you're best bet is to upgrade with the SSC.

First desolder the old emitter then remove it. I clamp the light/heatsink in a vise between some scrap wood, heat with a butane jet lighter, and twist and pry with some needle nose until the emitter pops off. The wood helps thermal insulation and prevents marring the part.

Flatten the 0.030" copper discs. You can smash them between two smooth parts in a vise, or tap them with a soft faced hammer on an anvil. File the disc flat on both sides.

Epoxy the disc to the heatsink, then the SSC to the disc. If the heatsink is not anodized, make sure to isolate the slug somehow. Then solder the leads.

You can order the S version of the old reflector from the Shoppe, or just remove 0.030" from the back of your old reflector by sanding, filing, grinding or gnawing. Just try to end up with the correct dimension and square. I like to finish the edge with a fine file or sandpaper, then deburr the emitter hole with some careful strokes of an X-acto knife.

I believe the 0.027" copper discs are for use with a Joker reflector. Then you only shave off 0.027" from the back of the reflector. I doubt I could tell the difference though which shim I used.

With the 20 mm McR, the reflector will only clear the dome of the SSC, not the surround. There will be some clearance around the dome, and careful placement is required for visual centering of the emitter.

With the 27mm (regular, not long) and 38mm reflectors, the reflector hole clears the entire emitter including the surround. With these you need to reshape the SSC leads so they sit tight against the surround, or they'll short on the reflector. Careful alignment is required not only for visual centering, but also to prevent the leads from contacting the reflector. I like to put a skim of clear epoxy over the leads just in case.

The McR27XR is based upon the McR27L, so if your light uses the deeper reflector, an XR-E upgrade would work. I can't help you with the amount to raise the emitter though, I've never worked with that combo before. I have used the McR27XR , and again centering becomes an issue. Mirageman's centering rings aleviate this. The McR19XR and 27XR benefit from these centering rings, but the McR17XR has an integral ring. With all these XR reflectors, proper focus is acheived by the reflector sitting on the top of the metal XR-E ring.

I do recommend when working with the XR-E that you solder the leads before mounting them on the sink if at all possible. Once mounted the sink will wick away the soldering heat and make a solid joint difficult. Also, keep the joints low, outside, and clean or they might contact the reflectors.

When working with either emitter, try not to touch or otherwise disturb the domes. The Cree's is glass, but beneath is a soft silicone that will develop bubbles or even fail if pressed or applied shear. The SSC's soft dome will become embedded with particulates that are difficult to remove, as well as separate from the base.

You will impress yourself when you fire up that old light with a current generation LED, and be looking for more lights to mod.

 

[Darell]

Thanks for the detailed info, Led!

I've got quite a bit of exerpience in the removal of "old" emitters, and certainly in the soldering of new ones. I've just been late in getting into the new emitter/reflector combos that are now flying around. I've been building stuff with the new emitters - just haven't done any retrofitting into the older stuff that I use every day. Will be nice to breathe fresh life into them. I've reached the point in my flashlight career where (gasp!) I don't need any new flashlights. I know what I like/want... and just want to keep them working at their best. sure... there was a time when I need 100 flashlights, and always the latest and greatest. Now? Not so much.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

I know exactly what you mean Darell.

I too have many lights, and most need finishing. But once I upgraded my Aleph 1 single cell EDC to a Seoul, I really don't need anything else.

And all those parts I have I view as assets - very very non-liquid assets!