Light help/recomendation for Maritime student

[greentaco]

I'm looking for a flashlight recommendation. I'll be starting at the California Maritime Academy September 1st as an engineering student and I need a flashlight. I'll be using it mostly in the engine room while doing inspections and maintenance as well as using it on deck at night (working close up as well as need some good distance). I need help finding something that meets my requirements. I need something durable as well as water/liquid resistant, don't really care about if it's plastic or metal. Something hand held and smaller than 8-9" long. Something with different lighting levels would be nice. Most important I want a rechargeable LED because when I go to sea who knows when or where I'll be able to find batteries or a spare bulb. I was looking at the Streamlight Stinger LED as an option, just wanted to see what else was out there. I have a Surefire G2 LED right now that will be my backup/keep in my sea bag light.

Thanks for any help
-Brian-

 

[carrot]

I would take a good hard look at the Streamlight Strion LED.

 

[DaveTheDude]

Brian...

I'm a former Navy engineering officer, and I believe I know what you're going to need.

For starters, I suggest you look at the Maratac 9290 light, available here:

http://www.countycomm.com/9290.html

Length: 4.2" Diameter: 1" Weight: 80 Grams.
It has reverse polarity protection and a working voltage from 1.0 V to 4.2V that provides smooth brightness adjustments from 6 to 190 lumens.

The light is ruggedly constructed; is inexpensive by this forum's standards, and produces a tight spot beam, which is enormously useful in engine rooms and machinery spaces to illuminate equipment too far away (or recessed behind a half dozen pipes and valves) to easily crawl over and inspect.

Another brand of similar , equally inexpensive lights useful to mariners is iTP, which offers a huge range of lights, one or more of which will likely satisfy your needs. Just remember to always, always check the input voltage limits of your chosen light (or lights): we had another mariner a few months ago fry his emitter by using two 3.6v li-ion cells (for 7+ volts) in his 4.2v light.

With regard to rechargeables, I recommend you get yourself at least four 3.7v li-ion cells and a good recharger. (AW is the favorite brand among flashaholics, but there are other brands available at lower cost).

There is a huge selection of lights available to you at higher price points. But given the nature of your question, you will likely have a few good weeks of research and reading, before you pull the trigger on one (or more) lights.

Happy searching sailor...

 

[NCT1]

If you really want to get a good light that will last, I would go with a surefire LX2.

 

[fishx65]

Sounds like you might need to throw in a nice headlamp along with a handheld. Would be nice if they both used the same type battery. A single aa with a solid clip would also work as a headlamp if you wear baseball caps.

 

[greentaco]

Thanks for the help thus far. I would like to clarify about the rechargeable requirement, I would like a light that I could leave the battery in to charge. Something about just throwing the light in the charger seams nice and easy.

 

[notsofast]

Thanks for the help thus far. I would like to clarify about the rechargeable requirement, I would like a light that I could leave the battery in to charge. Something about just throwing the light in the charger seams nice and easy.

Easy isn't always most practical. I would prefer to have a fully charged battery available to put in when the light didn't get put on the charger.

My recommendation is a HDS light. Water proof and as durable as they come, fully guaranteed for life. They aren't cheap but can be found on the marketplace site for a reasonable price, especially the older original HDS lights.

 

[jellydonut]

Hello,

I'm headed to maritime technical college myself, and I've spent the last two years in the engine rooms on various ships. I've used the Malkoff MD2 to great success (impressing everyone else and getting requests for lighting all the time along the way:devil. It has shown itself to be durable, water-resistant and shock proof so far.

As for a light that you throw in the charger by itself.. I've never seen any light that anyone on this forum would call a good light with that property. With the MD2, or any similar light, running rechargeables means you can stuff one newly charged battery in and then leave the other to charge. It doesn't have to be the MD2, it's just the only one I can personally stand behind having used it in a marine environment for several months.

I see you already have the G2 - a light such as that with a Malkoff M61L/M60L dropin might be the ticket. Or a regular M61 if you can get a 6P head to dissipate the heat better. I don't know if there's any way to get simple lighting regulation on those though, haven't looked into it myself.

 

[greentaco]

After taking some time and reading a lot of different threads I'm going to change my mind about some things.

First, I want to go with something smaller than 8-9", I want something that is similar in size to my G2. There is just something about the G2's size that feels right. So now I'm thinking I want a light between 5.5-4.5", don't want something too big for a pocket or too small to loose.

After looking around I found a feature that a really like, twisting the bezel to change the light setting. I just think is sounds easier than having to click the button a bunch of times or having to program the light.

Lastly, I'm caning my mind about the style of rechargeable light. I like the point Notsofast made about just dropping a new battery in if I forget to charge the whole light.

So here are my thought so far on lights, Fenix TK11 R5, Eagletac T10L and the P20C2. Right now I'm leaning to the TK11 R5 because it's a great size, good run time and output, I like the twist bezel, and I really like the fact that it can run on both CR123 (which I use for my G2) and 18650 rechargeable. The other lights are great as well, but neither one is compatible with both style batteries. Can anyone think of a reason to talk me out of the TK11?

Thanks
-Brian-

 

[red02]

Since your happy with the G2, why make the switch in the first place?

Personally I would recommend against Li-ions as the cost of replacing batteries and caring for them is too much in my opinion. I've killed 2 protected Li-Ion rechargeables, 1 by dropping it. So be sure to carry a spare set of CR123s if you go that way. I would encourage you to read up on Li-Ion rechargeable safety before making your decision.

 

[greentaco]

I'm just happy with the size of the G2, I don't really like the texture on the body of the light. I feel like it has no texture to give it a good grip. I also feel like the light lacks good output and distance. It's not a bad light, just going to move it to being a back-up/secondary.

 

[red02]

Some lights to think about:
Wolf-Eyes Defender III
5.11 Light for life
Eagletac T20C2 Mk. II
T100c2 Mk. II

 

[Nitroz]

The only thing that might be wrong with the TK11 is the low mode is 60 lumens and up close that could be to bright. It is however, a very tough light.

 

[DanTSX]

If you really want to get a good light that will last, I would go with a surefire LX2.

That was my 1st thought as well, but it wont take rechargeables, at least to my knowledge.


I'd just recommend stocking-up on primaries. The runtime on primaries is very good, as is the output.

And getting a cheap 2xAA light for backup in any chances you might be caught without access to CR123's wouldnt be a bad idea either.

 

[Nitroz]

Have you considered a buying a Quark turbo head with an 18650, or buying a Maelstrom G5?

The TK11 is a great light but you said you would be doing closeup work sometimes and a 60 lumen low is really bright in close quarters.

 

[skyfire]

lights with a built-in battery pack are good, but different.

i used to work in an auto-shop, and we used stingers. which is better than changing batteries with my greasy hands the light never needed to be opened, and we always know where the light is. but also the flashlights were not as necessary because we have ceiling lights.

but now, while working on the field, and being on the move i like to carry smaller lights, that use batteries. usually 2 lights, and a headlamp:thumbsup:

nobody has mention the quark line up. loosen and tighten head to change modes, small and slim, different tint and emitter options, different battery type options. differernt head options with the turbo series. ive been using a quark 123-2T since last year, and its my best all-purpose light for my needs at work. which is inspecting and working on planes (i love the night shift):thumbsup:

also, i dont know anything about these lights but "511" makes lights that charges in 90 seconds. using a capacitor instead of batteries. just thought ill throw that in. when i first heard about it i was very intrigued.

 

[Nitroz]

nobody has mention the quark line up. loosen and tighten head to change modes, small and slim, different tint and emitter options, different battery type options. differernt head options with the turbo series. ive been using a quark 123-2T since last year, and its my best all-purpose light for my needs at work. which is inspecting and working on planes (i love the night shift):thumbsup:

I did mention the Quark turbo above because he said he like the option of twisting the head, and with an 18650 body he could get some more runtime. :thumbsup:

 

[greentaco]

Well I pulled the trigger and got a new light, ordered the Eagletac P20C2 MKII Cool LOP Reflector. Had a lot of features I wanted and a great size. I like the fact that I can choose from regular or turbo and then to low without having to do any programing or playing with the switch.

Doesn't mean I won't get a TK11 some day, just thought this light sounded pretty dam good. The downside to my choice is a) it's not 18650 compatible, b) not the greatest run times, and c) it still has more features then I need (Strobe, Beacon, etc...) which I normally don't like buying something with more features than I need because it means there is more to go wrong, but I'm sure the Eagletac will be a pretty durable light. I'm sure I'll use this thing a lot and I'll do a review after using it for a while.

Now I need recommendations on a 17670 battery and charger.

Thanks for all the help and info

-Brian-

 

[red02]

The P20c2 is only 17670 compatible. The AW 17670 is probably the only safe choice. The WF-139 charger is pretty good also.

EDIT: corrected some errors; thought that the P20 could take 18650s.

 

[John_Galt]

I would second the recommendation for a Ra Clicky. I realize you like the simplicity of two modes, but the Ra user interface is extremely easy to "get." You could program it for any of 22/23 outputs, have it always turn on at a certain output (with the force setting), have momentary activation, etc.

The Ra's are nice because they will automatically register a Li-ion battery. It also has built in protection for a Li-ion, which will keep the battery from being over discharged.

These lights are some of the best regulated lights out there. When they say it is a certain output, they mean it, and it will maintain that output constantly for an allotted time. It will be that output, until the battery is no longer able to support that current drain.

These lights also protect the battery from shocks, which will keep the light from turning off if dropped, and prevent the positive contact from being smashed flat, rendering an otherwise useful battery dangerous and wasted.

They are also waterproof to two atmospheres (non moving), so no risk of it being destroyed if it's dropped in a bucket of water or something.

-----------------
If you're really set on the two modes with a head twist, have you considered the Quark Tactical's? You can program two different modes/outputs into the lights memory, and it's very easy (albeit slow).