I will offer a solution to the rear Tap/cutoff's on LF5XT's
But first a quote from GBH2 about the spring tension :
Quote:Originally Posted by GBH2
I removed the head and tried alternatively compressing the battery and the brass sleeve(compressed using my fingernail). It takes far greater force to compress the sleeve than it does the battery. Also, if you think about it the the sleeve is comparatively light and has to overcome a fairly strong, almost fully compressed spring(tailspring) while the battery is comparatively heavy and only has to overcome the weaker, only partially compressed battery tube spring.
I haven't taken apart the pcb's in the head to see if there is a potential problem there.
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This is what I have been saying ..... so I agree with GBH2 on the way that he explained it.
I think the current design allows the "+" battery terminal to loose contact if the light is bumped on the rear.
The way it is - the two springs are counteracting and fighting each other. Increasing the tension of the battery spring will counteract the tension of the tailcap spring, because it pushes the brass piston rearward against the pressure of the tailcap spring ....... thus causing a tendency for even the brass piston to loose contact with the front contact ring. In other words - stronger battery spring may cause either of the front contact points to break.
I can see only 1 permanent - long term solution to resolve this Tap/off (undesirable) condition.
It will require a design change :
Remove the exterior ridge at the rear of the brass piston so it can pass all the way thru the body. (removal needed for battery change reasons)
Put threads on the contact ring in the head , and threads on the front of the piston - so they can be screwed together making the piston stationary (not floating) which will eliminate the two springs fighting each other. The piston should not be allowed to move.
Then you can put a stronger battery spring inside the piston because it will now be stationary and screwed together with no counteractive forces on it.
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For battery changes you would unscrew the head - slide the body to the rear over the stationary brass piston. Then un-screw the brass piston from the head to get to the battery.
This change would allow much more force to be applied to the battery and lessen the chance of rear Tap/cutoff's.
Well ....... that's my solution ...... do you have a better one ??
I see some possible design issues but I don't have any better ideas at the moment unless they went with a design similar to Novatac which uses a spring around the outside of the battery all the way from the tail to the head.
I am just curious about one thing. While I understand this turn-off problem is a real issue with the LF5XT for some people who just who casually toss their light on a table, other people don't seem to have a problem ever. Others only find a problem if they really give their light a heavy knock. I am not in the habit of throwing any of my lights around in order to see if they turn off. However, I am wondering whether other non Liteflux lights so treated wouldn't also exhibit this behavior with a heavy knock. If so, is there a minimum tolerable shock proofness that should or can be expected of a quality light? If so, how much should we expect?
I am just curious about one thing. While I understand this turn-off problem is a real issue with the LF5XT for some people who just who casually toss their light on a table, other people don't seem to have a problem ever. Others only find a problem if they really give their light a heavy knock. I am not in the habit of throwing any of my lights around in order to see if they turn off. However, I am wondering whether other non Liteflux lights so treated wouldn't also exhibit this behavior with a heavy knock. If so, is there a minimum tolerable shock proofness that should or can be expected of a quality light? If so, how much should we expect?
Dude, I don't generally toss my lights around, I just put them down.
I don't do it gently, I don't do it hard, I just do it same as you.
There will not be many lights with this behavior...
Dude, I don't generally toss my lights around, I just put them down.
I don't do it gently, I don't do it hard, I just do it same as you.
Every say third or fourth time I put it down, it goes off. depending what level it is on, depending if the tail or head touches first, depending on floor or carpet or desk etc.
Honestly it is way way more sensative than any other light I have handled, My Novatac will go off if I hit it hard enough, but I don't do that.
This is a really nice light, size, looks, AA battery, UI, etc, I'm not writing it off because of this problem, but it really is a hardware problem, not a user problem.
I don't think you can compare NiteCore to the LF5XT. The LF5XT is much more limited in circulation than the NiteCore, and the complaints about the NiteCore having issues are relatively few compared to what I've seen on the LF5XT as a percentage of people who post. Not sure why you dragged the NiteCore into this discussion.I am sorry that my wording wasn't more clear. I didn't mean to suggest you were abusing your light in any way that you made your light shut down. What I was trying to say (I'll try again), it seems some people are really having a shut down problem with just casual usage; others only with a heavy drop; and others NEVER, no matter what they do to the light. I never meant to suggest it was a user error causing this. I agree that it IS a hardware problem, but I find it strange that people are not experiencing the problem to the same extent, and some people don't have the problem at all. ( It reminds me of the D10/EX10 complaints that circulate. Some people had a problem with erratic operation and stiff switching; most people didn't. Some people solved their problems with lubricants, and different O rings; rotating contact rings, etc; some people didn't solve their problem but had no problem when they exchanged their light for another. )
I may be stating the obvious, but it would seem both NiteCore and LiteFlux have quality control issues with their new programmable lights, rather than just design problems. Did they both rush these to market before adequate quality control testing? Are the production tolerances needed for these high tech lights tighter than these new companies allowed? Unless I am missing something, proposing add on fixes like springs makes sense only if there are design faults in the lights. Can this be the case if some lights need fixing and others don't?
The other key difference is when users have issues with the NiteCore lights, 4sevens stepped up right away and helped to resolve these issues. With LF5XT unfortunately the distributors have their hands tied so it's not as easy for the owners of these lights.
There's the one i suggested... Four springs - one for the battery "-" terminal, one for the battery "+" terminal, one for the rear (closed) end of the tube, one for the front (opened) end of the tube. Instead of a spring soldered to the contact ring, that last one could also be implemented as a ring mounted on a spring or two steel leafs.
That way, everything would be dynamically suspended and would adjust according to bumps and decelerations from both sides, without losing contact.