Lumapower M1 vs. Huntlight F103 vs. Other

CanDo

Newly Enlightened
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Jun 4, 2006
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Hello all,
It has been a regrettably long time since I've been here, and I can see that very much has changed in the world of handheld illumination. I've been carrying a Streamlight Twintask for a long while now, and had been waiting for a revolution to purchase my next light (no $$). It appears as though that has arrived in the form of Cree.

I'm completely overwhelmed having seen that monstrous list of Cree lights and so would like your help.
I'm looking for:
~Great Throw (like the Lumapower M1 Cree) (I don't plan on blinding anyone, but I'd like the option and sometimes need to clearly light up things in the distance)
~Regulated output for at least an hour
~Under $105
~Solid Construction (EDC for 10 Years), dunkable and prefferably with type III anodization,
~CR123 or AA powered
~Plenty of sidespill

I've read Flashlightreviews.com and have a pretty good feel for these two lights but I'm wondering a couple things. Do the M1 and F103 (both Cree) have sufficient sidespill to illuminate a small room? Does the M1 have noticeably better throw (some beamshots I've seen conflict with flashlightreviews.com's numbers)? Is there a difference in quality of construction? Is there a task for which one would be obviously better suited than the other? I'd love to hear any observations whatsoever from someone who owns or has handled both.


Most importantly: Is there a light with the same qualifications but cheaper, or same price but better? As I'm not a dedicated Flashaholic my realm of comprehension is somewhat limited to the tragically much-slowed-down flashlightreviews.com, so if it's not on there, I may be missing a great deal.
Anyway, I'm only going to get a shot to purchase one, and it will have to last a long while, so I don't want to be regretting my purchase (do y'all think that things will continue changing very fast, or is this level of tech going to be a platform for a while?)

Thanks so much for your help :)
 
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Please? Any thoughts having to do with Cree in a 2xCR123 platform?
 
They will both EASILY illuminate a decent sized room 20x24 ft. On high, these lights are both bright enough that even if there were zero spill, just the reflection of the spot of the beam on the wall will illuminate the room enough that folks can read a book or magazine.

Personally, I would lean towards the M1 if I didn't have either and wanted something in this class, but if I had one, I wouldn't even consider buying the other.
 
cratz2 said:
They will both EASILY illuminate a decent sized room 20x24 ft. On high, these lights are both bright enough that even if there were zero spill, just the reflection of the spot of the beam on the wall will illuminate the room enough that folks can read a book or magazine.

Personally, I would lean towards the M1 if I didn't have either and wanted something in this class, but if I had one, I wouldn't even consider buying the other.


Well that certainly quells one fear! :):laughing: Thanks! Haha, as I sit obsessively regretting my purhcase in a couple months, I'll reread your post "It's just a flashlight, it's ok. It's just a flashlight, the other is just the same."- Yeah I (we all?) have a problem...
I am leaning towards the M1 as well at this point just becaue it has more throw. Then I'm being thrown off by that the Huntlight is supposed to have more overall output....
These Crees are sounding like a real miracle...

I'm wondering now how these two fit in one's hand.... I doubt I'll be able to find a brick and mortar establishment to check it out for myself before purchase.
 
CanDo,

I have both the M1 and the FT01 Cree. They are both very good lights.

The M1 (esp. with the SMO reflector) throws farther than the FT01, but the FT01 has a much larger hotspot.

The M1 has a simple switch---Low/High/Off. The FT01 has 5 levels + strobe+ SOS, but you can run through them quickly with a tap on the switch.

If you run CR123s or RCR123As in the M1 you shouldn't use the 2-stage switch, just the one-stage that also comes with it. The FT01 on CR123s or RCR123As is fine, multi-stage switch and all.

The FT01 is more "pocketable" due to its smaller head, as well as its bezel-down clip position. It also has a sturdier clip than the M1.

One problem with the FT01 is the not-so-pretty beam with the SMO reflector, but the newer models also come with a textured reflector that solves that problem (and us guys with the older model are about to get one for our lights, courtesy of Huntlight, Jon @JSBurly's and TJZ).

Both can run on CR123s, RCR123As, or an 18650. You can find runtime graphs for the M1 at Flashlightreviews.com and for the FT01 from Chevrofreak: http://lights.chevrofreak.com/runtimes/

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
AF Austin,
Yes, that certainly does help. Having the High mode come on first is sort of important to me, and I don't want to sacrifice low levels for it (if this is as bright as you're saying, one may end up NEEDING low levels in order to see up-close things :) - Which puts the FT01 sqaurely even again... (Unless I were to carry the M1 with an Inova X1 or something).
It looks like with the textured reflector mentioned, you don't really lose throw either :).

It's sounding as though the Huntlight is the superior everyday light, but I'm thinking about those times I want to be able to I.D. something on a field/in the woods/on the water....

Anyway, thanks for all of the information, I'll certainly be thinking about it and keeping it in mind.
 
Right now it's only a teaser (i.e. no users have them in hands yet) but you might consider holding off a little for one of the new Dereelights as they seem like they fit your criteria pretty well. Hi/low option (can turn on in either, it seems), good runtime, look very well sealed and constructed, etc. Like I said, no one has them yet, although a few users have already plunked down payment (myself included, ha). The SSC version is focusable, the cree is fixed. I went for the SSC since I don't have any lights that utilize an SSC and because I'm intrigued by the focusing.

Who knows, it could turn out to be one big turd, but I decided to roll the dice. Since you purchase less frequently, I'm not suggesting you do the same, but since you are considering options at this point I figured you might want the heads up. I'm guessing that you might even score a better deal than the 'promotion' once some big dealers pick these up, but I could be wrong there.

If the stock module isn't great, the Dereelight will fit a D26 sized module, so I figured I could always toss in a drop-in.

In fact, on that note, since you don't buy a lot of lights, I would seriously suggest getting something that fits a D26 module. This will allow you vast opportunities at future upgrades at a minimum price. There are already countless Cree drop-ins in the D26 format, and now it looks like some multi-featured ones will be hitting the market soon (hi/low/strobe). When the next wave of technology rips through, you could probably find a drop-in for $12-$30 and still utilize whatever great host you choose.
 
Another thing... not sure what your financial situation is, but if you can afford both the Huntlight and the M1 Hunter, you could order both, play with both for a week or so being careful with how you handle them, then sell the one you don't prefer for probably a $10 loss. That way, you can be assured that you have the right light for your needs.

Personally, I think if you get the M1 with both reflectors, one of them will assuredly leave you very pleased. Also keep in mind that it's not like the M1 with the OP reflector or the Huntlight don't throw at all... it's just that the M1 with the smooth reflector has pretty extraordinary throw. I like throw as much as the next guy and I get quite a bit of opportunity to actually use it in a VERY rural area, but between lots of throw, pure flood or a balance of the two, I'll go with the balance almost every time.

And since you mentioned the brightness of the spill beam, almost always if you have an OP and a smooth reflector of very similar design, the spillbeam of the OP reflector will be brighter than that of the smooth reflector.
 
Gracias mis amigos!

TOTC,
That derelight is certainly interesting. Great price for the first 200, maybe I'll have a chance to jump on board but they'll probably be gone by then... D26 will be something to look out for then, thanks for the heads up. It might be the perfect solution to staying up to date without spending a lot of money.
Are the Cree dropins you mention capable of the same numbers as seen with the Lumalight and Huntlight? (though I suppose much still depends on the body)

cratz2,
Buying both isnt' an option at this time, but if things start going real well, I'll think about it. With either torch, I'll probably be using the OP (definitely with the Huntlight anyway), as a nice even beam is something that I've been severely deprived for well, my entire life. It's annoying in a practical situation (considering that you're often not just standing around able to focus entirely on where your light is pointing) to have a hole or line of harsh contrast cross your target. As far as having a balance of flood and spot, I understand the Huntlight is better suited, but the question becomes how BIG of a difference it is....

Can anyone with the M1 Hunter let me know: what's the difference between reflectors? I have the beamshots on flashlightreviews but other than smooting out the immediate hotspot; does the OP noticeably reduce throw or noticeably increase flood or sidespill? Having no practical (actual) experience comparing beamshots with real life, it's hard for me to guage them (I wish more people would take shots of a tree or shed or something)....

Probably sounding pretty redundant about now, but again, thanks for your input thus far :)

P.S.
I suppose that if I buy the M1 and it doesn't have enough flood, I could pack one of those new very small 1x123 Crees and have a backup :) (haha, just in case you were wondering my every thought)
 
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AFAustin said:
[...]If you run CR123s or RCR123As in the M1 you shouldn't use the 2-stage switch, just the one-stage that also comes with it.[...]
Why not? Where did this info come from?
 
If you want more flood with the M1, pick up a SSC-P4 module for it. I really like this setup. Old style M1 (Lux III) can be bought for $59 and the module runs $20. Or go with an old style Cree M1 and add the SSC-P4 module and reflector.
Lloyd
 
westfork said:
If you want more flood with the M1, pick up a SSC-P4 module for it. I really like this setup. Old style M1 (Lux III) can be bought for $59 and the module runs $20. Or go with an old style Cree M1 and add the SSC-P4 module and reflector.
Lloyd

I'm not by any means attatched to the M1 body, so will end up purchasing a different light (FT01) if it doesn't appear to offer enough flood. I know nothing of the SSC-P4 - I'll go look that up now.
 
Does the M1 start on low? Does the Huntilight F103 start on high? Thanks.
 
CanDo said:
That derelight is certainly interesting. Great price for the first 200, maybe I'll have a chance to jump on board but they'll probably be gone by then
I wouldn't feel too pressured if I were you. Given that it's a light of Chinese origin, I would expect that someone like dealextreme.com will pick it up in the future at a good price. If not, you can at least figure that people will be selling on the B/S/T forums after they decide to move on to a new conquest.

D26 will be something to look out for then, thanks for the heads up. It might be the perfect solution to staying up to date without spending a lot of money. Are the Cree dropins you mention capable of the same numbers as seen with the Lumalight and Huntlight? (though I suppose much still depends on the body)
Yes, the drop-ins can compete. I don't know of objective ratings that stack the current drop-ins against the lights you are questioning for very specific brightness ratings, so I wouldn't be so bold as to blanket them all together as "just as bright as each other." I'm sure there are slight differences.
If you just want to see a general beamshot of two of the drop-ins I'm running, you can check out this picture (even though its only point of comparison is a xenon).
And you can find beamshots of the DX drop-ins here.

Calvinmo28 is currently offering a drop-in with multi-modes that appears to be even brighter, but I'm in no hurry to order anything from him. I'm still waiting for some drop-ins from him that I ordered on Feb 25. I'd rather just wait until DX offers a cheaper version, as they did with their $12.50 drop-in... but as it stands I'm not really chomping on the idea of a multi-mode drop-in anyway.

I really don't think you can go wrong with any of the options you have considered, so don't sweat it too much. I will say that the drop-ins currently seem to have a spottier track record than the lights you are considering (although my personal experience has been great so far). I don't know how many of these cases could be contributed to bad electrical contact with the light body vs. how many were actually bad modules. I guess the cheaper price doesn't come without some cost (pun only slightly intended). A file and maybe some aluminum foil seem to have gone a long way for some people
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFAustin
[...]If you run CR123As or RCR123As in the M1 you shouldn't use the 2-stage switch, just the one-stage that also comes with it.[...]

Why not? Where did this info come from?
__________________

riffraff,

If you look through the original M1 thread (39 pp!): http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1659620&highlight=RCR123A+stage#post1659620

you'll see this mentioned a few times. Something about too much voltage frying the resistor in the 2-stage switch, IIRC. It may've been a problem just with RCR123As and not CR123s, though----not sure on that.
 
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Can anyone with the M1 Hunter let me know: what's the difference between reflectors? I have the beamshots on flashlightreviews but other than smooting out the immediate hotspot; does the OP noticeably reduce throw or noticeably increase flood or sidespill?

IMO, the OP reflector does reduce throw a fair amount, but it is still quite good. I don't notice that the OP increases floodbeam size, or brightness (to my eye). What it does do, though, is blend the already softer hotspot better into the flood, so that it is easier on the eye when lighting up something (like your path) at close range. The SMO hotspot is so bright that at close range it is distracting. Frankly, the "low" on the M1, while handy to have, is not bright enough to adequately illuminate, e.g., a crude path in the woods.
 
AFAustin said:
Frankly, the "low" on the M1, while handy to have, is not bright enough to adequately illuminate, e.g., a crude path in the woods.

I find the low on the M1 to be very bright.... It can light up ALOT! And there isn't much difference going from low to high....
 
Brozneo said:
I find the low on the M1 to be very bright.... It can light up ALOT! And there isn't much difference going from low to high....

Maybe you're using CR123As? I notice in Quickbeam's charts (http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/lumapower_m1.htm) there is quite a difference between Low on CR123As and Low on an 18650, esp. as to overall output. I run my M1 on an 18650, and Low is indeed low, esp. as to the floodbeam.
 
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