Lumapower MRV 210

[looman]

Looking for feedback re this unit and is it worth it.

Have a U2 and a Fenix P3D at the mo - both very good little units.

The output of the U2 is claimed at 100. I reckon nearer 80. The P3D is claimed 160 I would say nearer 90 - big exaggeration but both are excellent units.

i use the U2 for the spread and the P3D for a tighter beam and because it is sooo small.

I want a bit more throw though and I have been told that the MRV does produce 200 ish out of the front realistically.

Looking to use this to get a little more light out top 50/60 yards where the U2 and the Fenix struggle to reach.

Also looking for a reliable but cheapish unit as there is a real risk the unit might get damaged or lost in the field and the U2 makes me nervous.

What are you opinions of the MRV.

It will be used regularly so looking to run her on rechargable (probably protected cells).

I am not into filament bulbs - too yellow and the burn times are too short in comparison to LED.

Any feedback would be welcomed.

Thanks
Looman

 

[fieldops]

If you have not already done so. Check out StefanFS super MRV review here.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=164966


Looks like an awesome light :twothumbs

 

[StefanFS]

The LumaPower MRV and the Tiablo A8 seem to be the ?best? production CREE led throwers available today. In dark conditions they work at distances of 100 meters and up. They also provide decent spill light. Both have runtimes of +2 hours on one 18650 LiIon cell. Both are good quality.

 

[looman]

Stefan,

Firstly - very good review.

I am considereing the MRV but the A8 is the first i have heard mention of this unit ? what is the cost of the A8 and which do you think is the better overall.

I mean this in the sense of the output and the central beam though I do like a lot of spill too - the reason being is I also use this for hunting and if an animal makes a run, the spill is very useful to keep it in sight. If the beam is all spot, the animal can get lost and go to ground.

The best price I have seen for the MRV is $119 - how does he A8 compare.

Also, it seems the 2 x rechargable cells seem to burn brighter than the single 1860 and burns very flat too.

your comments on the MRV are very full but the A8 has pricked my interest too.

 

[Steve L]

Here's a link to StefanFS's A8 review: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=169070. There is a flashlight review section on the main page, just scroll down a little further past the LED section you are in now.

 

[looman]

thanks steve

 

[looman]

The LumaPower MRV and the Tiablo A8 seem to be the ?best? production CREE led throwers available today. In dark conditions they work at distances of 100 meters and up. They also provide decent spill light. Both have runtimes of +2 hours on one 18650 LiIon cell. Both are good quality.

On balance, I think i prefer the A8 as i like the single switch on the rear than the twin system employed by the MRV.

The lack of lanyard hole is silly and is a minus point as is the inability to use the tailcap as a safety off device by undoing it a quarter turn.

May I ask where the best place to buy is ?

Also, as you seem very capable when it comes to modding kit, would it be possible to get this modded to run on a tape switch and would you be prepared to do this for a suitable fee ?

Many thanks

Simon

 

[StefanFS]

Both lights are comparable in output (to the eye). The A8 with textured reflector (optional) will give you more spill and you will still have 10000 Lux in throw. Personally I feel that the amount of spill light is enough with smooth reflectors in both lights. I use both in the woods, preferably on low until I need high. The MRV will only give you ~25 minutes on high with two RCR123 cells. The A8 will give you ~2 hours on high with one 18650 cell, and still be brighter than the MRV on two RCR123. I like both, but my MRV has been modded with a better driver and a higher binned CREE. It's hard to convey how bright these are, I'm planning more beamshots against my SSC P4 USOXH Mäglite 3D and one other light sometime soon. Both the MRV & the A8 absolutely murder the Mäg 3D (driven at 1000 mA to the led). If you want much more spill light you will sacrifice throw.
Stefan

 

[Steve L]

On balance, I think i prefer the A8 as i like the single switch on the rear than the twin system employed by the MRV.

The lack of lanyard hole is silly and is a minus point as is the inability to use the tailcap as a safety off device by undoing it a quarter turn.

May I ask where the best place to buy is ?

Also, as you seem very capable when it comes to modding kit, would it be possible to get this modded to run on a tape switch and would you be prepared to do this for a suitable fee ?

Many thanks

Simon

Here's a link for you, Tiablo sells them direct in the Manufacturer's Corner: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166720

 

[StefanFS]

There's a place called the CPF Marketplace. Here's a link to the manufacturers:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166720

It would probably be pretty easy to install a tape switch in it. And no, I won't do it. I think you could do it yourself without much trouble. I know there's sometimes a threshold to climb to get started in modding, but one can often do more than first imagined.
Stefan

 

[looman]

Both lights are comparable in output (to the eye). The A8 with textured reflector (optional) will give you more spill and you will still have 10000 Lux in throw. Personally I feel that the amount of spill light is enough with smooth reflectors in both lights. I use both in the woods, preferably on low until I need high. The MRV will only give you ~25 minutes on high with two RCR123 cells. The A8 will give you ~2 hours on high with one 18650 cell, and still be brighter than the MRV on two RCR123. I like both, but my MRV has been modded with a better driver and a higher binned CREE. It's hard to convey how bright these are, I'm planning more beamshots against my SSC P4 USOXH Mäglite 3D and one other light sometime soon. Both the MRV & the A8 absolutely murder the Mäg 3D (driven at 1000 mA to the led). If you want much more spill light you will sacrifice throw.
Stefan

"The A8 will give you ~2 hours on high with one 18650 cell, and still be brighter than the MRV on two RCR123"

very good point and as the 2 hr burn time will be very useful, it looks like it is the A8 for sure. That and the comparable beams (the A8 topping the MRV as a std like for like). Doesnt sound like a difficult decision to me unless I am missing something here ?

Thanks for all the assistance and that night shot of the lake was just suprb. I could almost smell the pine. God I need to get out side more :-(

 

[looman]

There's a place called the CPF Marketplace. Here's a link to the manufacturers:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166720

It would probably be pretty easy to install a tape switch in it. And no, I won't do it. I think you could do it yourself without much trouble. I know there's sometimes a threshold to climb to get started in modding, but one can often do more than first imagined.
Stefan

Stefan - thanks but not being funny i have trouble working out the mechanics of paperclips but I will give it a crack.

Thanks very much for your help.

 

[looman]

Here's a link for you, Tiablo sells them direct in the Manufacturer's Corner: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166720

Also a big thanks to you too Steve for pointing me in the right direction.

Simon

 

[looman]

Stefan

Would the glow in the dark tail cap cover fit the A8 and visa versa ?

 

[StefanFS]

I'm pretty sure these fit. These glow more & longer.....
http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.917

And I know that the switch covers from LumaPower (D-mini & MRV) fit.

For a tape switch mod I would ask the seller for the possibility to buy an extra tailcap for this mod, so you can switch between tailcaps. Desolder the switch module on the circuit board from the tailcap, remove the little resistor by the switch on the board and replace it with solder or a piece of copper wire (close he gap the resistor left), solder the contacts from the tape switch to the contact points where the switch was soldered to the board, remove the switch cover (or leave it with the lead going through it) and fill the tailcap around the lead with epoxy or silicone after you have reinstalled the switch module.
Stefan

 

[Vermonter73]

What's a tape switch?

 

[Derek Dean]

What's a tape switch?

Thanks for asking the question Vermonter73, I was wondering the same thing, although with those excellent directions by StephanFS, I believe I could probably install one (whatever it is).

Edit.... oh, a quick Google brought up the SureFire tape switch... which seems to provide remote operation of the light, for instance if it was mounted on a gun I believe.

 

[Thujone]

The lack of lanyard hole is silly and is a minus point as is the inability to use the tailcap as a safety off device by undoing it a quarter turn.

Simon

I had to address this as it seems you are speaking about the MRV. It both has lanyard holes and you can lock out the light by undoing the tail cap a quarter turn....

 

[looman]

I had to address this as it seems you are speaking about the MRV. It both has lanyard holes and you can lock out the light by undoing the tail cap a quarter turn....

I was talking about the A8 in fact as the MRV does have these features already and was also identifed by Stefan's reviews.

 

[looman]

I'm pretty sure these fit. These glow more & longer.....
http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.917

And I know that the switch covers from LumaPower (D-mini & MRV) fit.

For a tape switch mod I would ask the seller for the possibility to buy an extra tailcap for this mod, so you can switch between tailcaps. Desolder the switch module on the circuit board from the tailcap, remove the little resistor by the switch on the board and replace it with solder or a piece of copper wire (close he gap the resistor left), solder the contacts from the tape switch to the contact points where the switch was soldered to the board, remove the switch cover (or leave it with the lead going through it) and fill the tailcap around the lead with epoxy or silicone after you have reinstalled the switch module.
Stefan

Thank you Stefan - you are a mine of information. I have already asked about additional spares - in fact may get several as different equipment is used in different ways or things have to be mounted in varying locations so sometimes longer or shorter tape switches will be required. I also dont like miles of lead to be free to snap etc.

However, I could not see the business end of the tape switch on dealextreme. Is this something they would do or is there another supplier I should contact or is it another DIY thing ?

Thanks

Si