M30 run time problem

wirehair

Newly Enlightened
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May 20, 2009
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Hi, Last week I got my new M30, with it I received a AW 139 charger and 4x 18500 batts. I marked the batts 1 and 2----A and B. When the lights turn green on the charger the batts are reading 4.07 volts.
If I put 1 and 2 in the M30 and turn it on full I get approx 30 min runtime then the light turns itself off. Take the batts out, No 1 is reading 00 volts, No 2 is reading 3.77 volts. If I put A and B in the light I get approx 30 min run time until light goes out, remove A and B batteries.. A is reading 3.87volts, B is reading 00 volts. Can someone please tell me WHAT is going on here! Thanks, Greg.
The batteries are UltraFire 18500 1600mah 3.7v protected.
 
going to need more information. An M30 is only supposed to run on 1X18650. If you are putting the 2 in series, I don't understand why you haven't ruined the light with over voltage. If you have some special host that takes 2 of those in parallel, then it sounds like its only running off of the one battery. If you meant to say you have an M60 that would take 2 of those batteries in series, that would make more sense.

Are these "Protected" cells? You didn't state exactly what they are. Are the AW brand as well?

Make sure you are giving us the right info. How are the batteries connected in the host to the modules, is this in fact the M30 and not the M60. So on and so forth.
 
Like MrGman said, we need more info, including a more descriptive wording for M30, as M30 standing alone mostly means the Malkoff M30, and M60 means Malkoff M60, etc.

Bill
 
If I put 1 and 2 in the M30 and turn it on full I get approx 30 min runtime then the light turns itself off. Take the batts out, No 1 is reading 00 volts, No 2 is reading 3.77 volts. If I put A and B in the light I get approx 30 min run time until light goes out, remove A and B batteries.. A is reading 3.87volts, B is reading 00 volts. Can someone please tell me WHAT is going on here! Thanks, Greg.

The 0 volts is because the over discharge protection is active. It is not a good idea to run batteries that low!
 
I think Ive fixed it. I fully charged No2 and A put them togeather and am running the Olight M30 on high, at the 1 hour mark No2 was still at 3.18v and A was at 3.35v. So yes out of the 4 batteries I was sent 2 were stuffed, BJ expect a email monday.:naughty:. Thankyou or the advice last night about picking up a multimeter, I picked up the faulty batts straight away useing it. Got a lot to learn but this site helps a lot. The Olight M30 is great on high but I find the flickering on med and low realy quite bad. I have turned the light of at 1.10 min looks like its starting to fade.
Thanks, Greg.
 
The Olight M30 is great on high but I find the flickering on med and low realy quite bad.

I picked up an M30 also recently expecting the PWM flicker to bother me. For the life of me I can't see any flicker. I just notice it a little when I move my hand in front of it or shine it at a ceiling fan. In normal every day use, I don't notice anything. I can't imagine that it would be different in some lights. Isn't it programed into the light and it would be exactly the same on all lights. Why do some see flickering and some(me) don't? Just curious.
 
I think Ive fixed it. I fully charged No2 and A put them togeather and am running the Olight M30 on high, at the 1 hour mark No2 was still at 3.18v and A was at 3.35v. So yes out of the 4 batteries I was sent 2 were stuffed, BJ expect a email monday.:naughty:. Thankyou or the advice last night about picking up a multimeter, I picked up the faulty batts straight away useing it. Got a lot to learn but this site helps a lot. The Olight M30 is great on high but I find the flickering on med and low realy quite bad. I have turned the light of at 1.10 min looks like its starting to fade.
Thanks, Greg.

It's good to hear that it's just the batteries!

:thumbsup:
 
For the battery issue, it may just be that they need to be conditioned by a few full charge and discharge cycles. Some one will come on and say Lithium Ion Rechargeables don't need conditioning, but I say, run them a few more cycles and see what happens. Try and put the 2 that seem to last longer together and the 2 that were the first to die together and run them together also. You still haven't told us exactly what brand the batteries are.

Next, they will never discharge exactly at the same rate to the same level. So the weaker of the two is going into cut off mode first and in cut off mode it shows zero volts. This is what it is supposed to do for a protected battery, cut off and go open circuit. The battery cannot discharge past the cut off and you can't see what the voltage is, that is what the "protection" is all about so you should be fine.

For the PWM flickering issue. Its us that are all different and some people are more sensitive to it than others. Not that every unit runs exactly the same but we have different levels of sensitivity so where one person just sees the dimmer level and the other person see's the flickering, it happens. Our optic nerves to our brain are not all identical in their sensitivity and our brain's response.
 

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